home Ideas How to make a polymer brooch. Clay brooch

How to make a polymer brooch. Clay brooch

I made this bird two weeks ago, and there was no time to post a master class on it. And they called this handsome guy a gray-throated long-tailed larva-eater :)

Here he is, the real one...

To begin with, as in my previous master classes, we look at the animal, and then we start creating a brooch :)

We will need:

Polymer clay black and gray-brown;

Acrylic paints (black, white, red, yellow, brown, blue);

Wire;

Brooch base;

Stack with a ball;

Hands and desire to create!

Go! :)

Drawing a template the right size, we will check with him.

We sculpt a body and head from a piece of black clay.

Separately we make part of the wing and tail.

We stick it to the body and smooth it out.

Using a stack and a ball, we make an oval-shaped indentation for the eye, and with a needle we draw a line from the outer corner of the eye to the back of the head.

We also use a needle to outline the outline of the beak. Making a three-dimensional eye from a small piece of clay

The bird turned out to be a bit flat, so we are adding some belly to it.

And again we smooth out all the joints.

We also create volume on the wing, and use a blade to cut through the feathers.

Using a blade, we cut through the barely visible second wing.

And again we push through the remaining feathers with a needle.

From wire we twist such a structure for a branch and legs.

We cover it with clay and insert it into place, sticking the fingers.

I chose the basis for the brooch with such a round thing.

Bake for 25 minutes at the temperature indicated for your clay (mine is 130 C).

And now the most interesting and important part - painting :) The final appearance of the product depends on it.

Here is my “palette” :) We will need this color scheme to paint the bird’s head. A little black, dark gray with a drop of blue and light gray also with blue, white.

First we cover it with light gray, as shown in the photo below.

Then we paint the top of the head with dark gray and make a stripe from the beak to the lower inner edge of the eye.

Next, using separate strokes of dark gray, light gray, white and black, we go over the top of the head and wing. I did several layers until I was happy with the result. I indicated the rest in the photo.

Then we cover the tummy well with white paint. This way the light colors will be brighter and more beautiful than if we immediately painted over black.

We stretch from yellow to red.

First we paint it in yellow.

Then, using separate strokes and patting, alternately apply all shades of yellow-red. Add more red to the top of the breast and sides, and yellow and peach to the middle and bottom. Next to the paws, draw a white stripe and stretch it with an arc towards the top, as in the photo.

We add brown to the same shades and color the tail. We also draw a red spot on the wing and white stripes. We go over the branch with white paint with a semi-dry brush.

Cover with glossy varnish polymer clay eye, legs, black part of the wing and the back of the brooch.

And finally, the chick is ready! I hope you enjoy my master class and find it useful :) Thank you for your attention! Inspiration and success in your creativity to everyone! :)

I made this bird two weeks ago, and there was no time to post a master class on it. And they called this handsome guy a gray-throated long-tailed larva-eater :)

Here he is, the real one.

To begin with, as in my previous master classes, we look at the animal, and then we start creating a brooch :)

We will need:

Polymer clay black and gray-brown;

Acrylic paints (black, white, red, yellow, brown, blue);

Wire;

Brooch base;

Stack with a ball;

Hands and desire to create!

Go! :)

We draw a template of the required size, and we will refer to it.

We sculpt a body and head from a piece of black clay.

Separately we make part of the wing and tail.

We stick it to the body and smooth it out.

Using a stack and a ball, we make an oval-shaped indentation for the eye, and with a needle we draw a line from the outer corner of the eye to the back of the head.

We also use a needle to outline the outline of the beak. Making a three-dimensional eye from a small piece of clay

The bird turned out to be a bit flat, so we are adding some belly to it.

And again we smooth out all the joints.

We also create volume on the wing, and use a blade to cut through the feathers.

Using a blade, we cut through the barely visible second wing.

And again we push through the remaining feathers with a needle.

From wire we twist such a structure for a branch and legs.

We cover it with clay and insert it into place, sticking the fingers.

I chose the basis for the brooch with such a round thing.

Bake for 25 minutes at the temperature indicated for your clay (mine is 130 C).

And now the most interesting and important part - painting :) The final appearance of the product depends on it.

Here is my “palette” :) We will need this color scheme to paint the bird’s head. A little black, dark gray with a drop of blue and light gray also with blue, white.

First we cover it with light gray, as shown in the photo below.

Then we paint the top of the head with dark gray and make a stripe from the beak to the lower inner edge of the eye.

Then we cover the tummy well with white paint. This way the light colors will be brighter and more beautiful than if we immediately painted over black.

We stretch from yellow to red.

First we paint it in yellow.

We add brown to the same shades and color the tail. We also draw a red spot on the wing and white stripes. We go over the branch with white paint with a semi-dry brush.

We cover the eye, legs, black part of the wing and the back side of the brooch with glossy varnish for polymer clay.

And finally, the chick is ready! I hope you enjoy my master class and find it useful :) Thank you for your attention! Inspiration and success in your creativity to everyone! :)

Report to moderator

I warn you right away that I will tell you for a long time, in detail and tediously, I don’t know how to do it any other way, so you last chance escape.

We will need a lot of things, but first of all - polymer clay. In this case, there are no special requirements for it, such as a certain brand, hardness-softness or something like that - any will do, I mainly have Premo and Pardo (just in case, in case anyone is interested).

Colors. You can use any colors and in any combinations, I took a bunch of multi-colored pieces of all the colors of the rainbow + black. If you have the same dubious tendency towards variegation as I do, I still recommend this thing: usually if we're talking about about bright shades, the colors of polymer clay “out of a pack” have some “chemicality” and unambiguity - bright red, heart-rending fuchsia, chemical lemon, etc. If we combine many such chemical shades in one product, the result is a straight-line item. teenage range. Therefore, I recommend “complicating” some colors by mixing them with a droplet of plastic of the opposite color in the spectrum or simply black or brown. This will give the color greater complexity and naturalness, for example, I mixed a drop of blue-green polymer clay to the fuchsia, and a little red to the light green color, the result was a complex lilac-pink shade (the first in the top row) and a wasabi color (the last in lower). If it is still unclear why you should do this, adding a couple of such shades allows you to remove the patina of approximateness and make the range a little more difficult to perceive. Yes, I'm a bore, but you were warned)
So, I have 9 small pieces of colored polymer clay and 1 black one.

We have decided on the colors, now we need to roll out the prepared plastic into layers. I do this using a pasta machine; if you don’t have this useful device, you can struggle with rollers, rolling pins or any other cylindrical objects.

Now we take a blade from a regular one stationery knife and cut off small strips from the layers. The width of the strips is arbitrary, I like it better when the strips are of different widths - from 2 to 8-10 mm, length - about 4 cm

We combine the cut strips into a single web.

Until you get a rectangle about 4 by 5 cm (a little more or a little less is possible)

Take the blade again and cut the rectangle diagonally.

We leave one half in its original position, turn the other half upside down and connect the halves along the cut line

We cut off the excess plastic around the edges, giving the workpiece the shape of a leaf.

Now we take a black layer and place our workpiece on it, trying to prevent air bubbles from getting between the layers.

We need to slightly level the relief of the workpiece; for this I will use an acrylic stamp block sprinkled with starch or baby powder (it is needed so that the block does not stick to the plastic). If there is no block, you can use a small piece of glass, for example, from a photo frame, or in general any object with a smooth, even surface.

We press the sheet, press on the glass and watch how the surface of the sheet flattens and levels out. Again we cut off the excess plastic around the edges - this is what we should get.

Now we need to make fun of the leaf to make its surface more interesting. This can be done in different ways. For example, you can sprinkle a little salt on a leaf and press it into the surface directly with your fingers or the same acrylic block.

Or you can poke the surface with a toothbrush or a hard brush.

This seemed sufficient to me, and I proceeded to the next stage - pressing the grooves. We do this with the back (dull) side of the blade

Bake the leaf for 15 minutes at a temperature of 120-130 degrees, remove from the oven, and cool.

We sand the edges and the front surface of the leaf with fine sandpaper, wash, dry and coat the inside with a thin layer of liquid plastic (gel) - it is needed for better adhesion of the already baked plastic to the raw one, but if there is no gel, we skip this step.

We put a layer of any color on the wrong side of our sheet, cut off the edges, press with our fingers.

We take a suitable base for the brooch, press it into the damp plastic...

And using any tools that come to hand, we smooth the hole in the polymer clay onto the base so that its (base) lower part is hidden under a layer of plastic. For these purposes, I use manicure tools, such as curettes and spatulas, or dental instruments.

We make a relief on the wrong side. I have an interesting and very convenient thing - a silicone thimble with bubbles. It's actually intended for felting, but I use it for polymer clay. We put the thimble on our finger and press it on the back side of the brooch, leaving craters on the relief. If you don’t have a thimble, you can use any textured fabric, toothbrush, foam rubber or dots.

Where does it come from!

Back in the oven for another 15 minutes, take it out again and sand it (if necessary), and get this from the inside out...

And here it is from the front side.

Dissolve the remaining salt in water, take acrylic paint(I have a black one, to match the color of the intermediate layer), and paint over the entire brooch - from the face and from the back. It is better to use a hard brush, synthetic or bristled, so that you can get into all the holes and cracks of the surface.

We wait 10-15 minutes for the acrylic to dry, then moisten the fine sandpaper with water and sand off the excess paint. We need it to remain only in the depressions of the relief.

We wipe off the remaining paint and water, dry it, and cover it with any suitable varnish - I have a matte Varatan. We ALWAYS cover both sides, in 3-4 layers.

And voila! Ready)

Or you can make not a leaf, but a fish...

Or oval earrings)

Something like this, thank you for your attention!

Report to moderator

Today we bring to your attention an interesting master class on creating an original decoration. Earrings and brooches made of polymer clay look gentle, modern and stylish. We know that many of our readers love to sculpt with plasticine with their children. Modern modeling mass is something. It is pleasant to the touch, and the variety of bright colors is simply pleasing. How much pleasure it gives kids to crush a piece of such plasticine, especially since it is very useful for the development of fine motor skills. But we played around, put everything in tightly closed boxes and put it back in its place. But we wanted to make something more durable. Then the idea came, why not make something from polymer clay. And you will have to crush the material in your hands to get the required form, But ready product after heat treatment it will please the eye for a long time. So we decided to make earrings and a brooch from polymer clay in the shape of a flower. Look what we got out of this idea.

Required materials and tools:

polymer clay (it hardens during heat treatment);
something for the middle (we used a vintage earring for the brooch, and small beads for the earrings);
wax paper;
baking oven;
Super glue;
glaze for clay;
something where you will attach earrings and a brooch (studs for earrings and a pin for brooches, respectively).

Beginning of work

Prepare yourself workplace. Line the table with wax paper to prevent the table from getting dirty. When the product is ready, it can be placed in the oven directly on this paper. Take white polymer clay and knead a piece in your hands.

Forming a flower brooch

For the brooch, roll 10 balls the size of the end of your thumb. For earrings we also make 10 balls, but smaller ones.

Recently, embroidered beaded brooches have become very fashionable. Today I want to introduce the idea of sparkling jewelry with a similar effect. Instead of beads, I took rhinestones and used polymer clay as a base. The base is covered with rhinestones much like gingerbread is covered with glaze. Let's call this rhinestone glaze rhinestone.

What rhinestones can be used for this work? We need elements that will not melt in the oven at 130 degrees. These can be rhinestones made of glass, metal, a chain with rhinestones, metal pendants, glass cabochons, rivoli, etc. It is worth considering that glass and metal do not stick to polymer clay during the baking process, so it is better to buy adhesive-based rhinestones, the so-called thermal rhinestones. Elements without glue must either be glued after baking with superglue, or before baking, they must be walled up in clay so that they cannot be removed. For example, a chain with rhinestones can be pressed in so that the bridge is inside the clay, and the rivoli can be removed and glued after baking.

First, let's prepare a sketch. You can print a picture from the Internet or draw a sketch by hand. Today we will make a heart. Below are some images of hearts. Choose what you like, print it or draw it yourself and cut out the resulting heart. When baked, polymer clay does not change size, so there is no need to make the template a little larger.

We begin work by preparing the base. Any baked polymer clay is suitable for rhinestones. I have Chinese DMO clay. On our live broadcasts on VKontakte the most frequently asked question about my review about the quality of Chinese clay. It is softer than more expensive alternatives, but flexible and durable after baking. DMO is excellent for rhinestones, since its softness makes it easy to press rhinestones into it.

Roll out a layer of polymer clay with a rolling pin or on the thickest part of a pasta machine. We apply the template to the clay and trace it. Using a knife, cut out as close to the design as possible. You can use a breadboard knife or a regular blade. After this, the edges of the brooch need to be smoothed with your fingers along the entire contour, both on the front side and on the back. The front side can even be made flat, depending on the design. We draw auxiliary lines according to the sketch. In order to glue rhinestones, you need to prepare a “tool”. Take a toothpick or skewer and wrap a thin layer of cotton wool fibers around the very tip. We wet this cotton tip. When we apply the tip to the rhinestone, the rhinestone is glued to the cotton wool, carried onto the clay and lightly pressed into the surface.

We begin to apply rhinestones along the auxiliary lines. First the contours, and then fill inside the contour. It is important to fill the space in such a way that there are no gaps between the lines that are too large to accommodate the rhinestones.

Do not attempt to reproduce the drawing exactly. Even rhinestones laid out on paper will not give an accurate result. Adjust the pattern as you work. Particular attention should be paid to the edge of the brooch. Carefully press in the rhinestones located along the edge, because they are most subject to stress due to friction against clothing, etc.

After the drawing is ready, smooth the rhinestones with your finger to even out the height, press a little if the rhinestones stick out too much. Send for baking. Brooches made from polymer clay should be baked in a horizontal position. In a vertical position, when the glue melts, the rhinestones may slide off. If vertical surfaces are being decorated, then the rhinestones need to be pressed in deeply so that they do not run off; in general, the rhinestones need to be pressed in as much as possible so that they hold on tighter.

Chinese clay is baked at 130 degrees, thermal rhinestone glue also melts at this temperature. If the product is well baked, the rhinestones will not come off after hardening! If the brooch has cooled down and the rhinestones do not hold tightly, then the temperature is insufficient, bake the rhinestone brooch one more time.

Practice by making several small samples and pressing the rhinestones into them with different forces. Bake and you will get an accurate idea of how hard to press the rhinestones and how long to bake the product.

After this, we attach the clasp to the brooch blank as shown in the photo below.
Fragments of polymer clay can be fastened together using a special gel, but if this is not available, the fastener can be glued with epoxy resin. If the fastening is on gel, then the product needs to be baked again. In this case, you can put the brooch on a paper accordion so that the brooch is even, because the glue will melt again. I first sanded the base itself a little with sandpaper, giving it a rough texture.

Now let’s talk about how to make a three-dimensional brooch from polymer clay. If you initially make the base of the brooch twice as thick, and then round the edges by cutting off the excess, you can get a voluminous heart (in the photo below, the two lower hearts are made in exactly this way). The voluminous brooch looks very impressive.

Everything is ready, enjoy wearing it!

I would like to show you a few photos of embroidered heart brooches from Pinterest. The authors are different, the brooches are embroidered with beads, but I know for sure that you will have ideas on how you can make something of your own and original. The strassing technique provides a huge field for experimentation. After all, in your work you can use not only rhinestones, but also metal elements, stones, and you can decorate them with modeling. What scope for imagination!

Feb 22, 2018 abraxams