Breeding worms at home. The subtleties of your own breeding of dung worms
The goldentail, or yellowtail, worm is a bait with which you can catch any kind of fish anywhere at any time of the year. And the name “dung worm” is used only for camouflage.
The names "dung worm", "compost worm" or "yellowtail" refer to two types of worms. They have the Latin names Eisenia foetida (foetida - smelly) and Eisenia andrei. E. foetida is characterized by bright yellow rings in the tail (the English name for this worm is tigerworm). E. andrei is colored a uniform light red color, and its rings are not so clearly defined. In addition, the E. andrei worm can withstand higher temperatures than its relative. Since both worms are so similar not only in appearance, but also in their requirements for living space and lifestyle that they calmly coexist side by side, scientists only recognized in 1972 that we are talking about two different species.
Previously, the large red worm, dendrobena, was also included in the group of dung worms. It was then given the Latin name Eisenia hortensis; however, it falls out of this category, since it is noticeably larger, thicker and, in addition, more fleshy than the first two types. To the angler, the difference between E. foetida and E. andrei is of little importance since both worms make excellent fishing baits. Scientists suggest that both worms taste different to fish, since the composition of the strong-smelling yellow tissue fluid that flows out of them when hooked is not the same. But there is still no evidence that would clearly confirm this. Therefore, we will further consider both species as one - a dung worm.
Worms need warmth
Although dung worms are found on all continents, their origin is believed to be the Mediterranean. Compared to other worm species, they are extremely resistant to high temperatures. Life processes in their body occur most intensively at temperatures from 15 to 25°C, but they can also tolerate temperatures of about 30°C. In such conditions, the crawler, with its favorite temperature of about 10°C, would have died long ago.
The usual habitats of the dung worm are heaps of mixed compost, especially rich in organic matter, in which even in winter, thanks to the heat released during decomposition, the temperature rarely drops below +15 ° C, especially if manure from hay-eating horses or rabbits is included in the heap along with plant waste .
A good compost heap contains so many dung worms (here Eisenia foetida) that there is enough of them not only for catching on weekends, but also for feeding.
1000 descendants
In optimal habitat conditions, the dung worm remains active throughout the year, multiplying and producing up to four generations. Offspring appear on the 16-20th day after oviposition, and a single worm can produce up to 1000 offspring per year. For comparison: hatchlings emerge from the egg only in the 3rd-4th month. Dung worms have an average length of 6–8 cm; in exceptional cases and under particularly favorable conditions they can reach 13 cm. The maximum age of a worm is about 3 years.
The dung worm is something of a Ferrari among earthworms. It lives intensively, expending a lot of energy, so it reproduces only in a nutrient-rich compost heap, regularly replenished with freshly cut grass, kitchen scraps and falling fruit.
Dung worms do not tolerate frost very well. If, due to prolonged cold weather, the temperature in the compost heap drops significantly and remains below freezing for a long time, the worms die. If all the worms in the compost heap are lost, they will need to be reintroduced next year because spontaneous recolonization by migrating worms is rare.
If the compost heap is sufficiently moist and rich in nutrients in the summer, manure worms will survive in the heat. Each fork lift brings many worms to the surface.
Easy to breed
If you need a large number of dung worms, it is easy to breed them in your garden plot and even in the basement of your own house. To grow them yourself in a special box or by introducing them into a manure heap, you can purchase dung worms online. The first offspring under optimal conditions should be expected after about 10 weeks.
Dung worms are dug out with a garden fork. When digging with a shovel, many worms are damaged.
Optimal conditions
The first condition for optimal dilution: the compost must be sufficiently wet, approximately the same as a wrung out rag. If the compost pile is too dry, it will become infested with ants, predatory beetles, or woodlice. And ants and predatory beetles hunt for worms. On the other hand, the compost should not be too wet. Stagnant moisture is fatal to worms if they cannot move into the dry parts of the manure pile.
The second condition is the highest possible content of rotted plant residues in the compost heap. The metabolism of dung worms is extremely intense: one individual per day eats rotted plant debris in an amount equal to approximately half its own weight, and on warm days - even double its body weight. A kilogram of worms thus consumes 0.5–2 kg of rotted plant particles per day. Dung worms are almost never found in ordinary garden soil, and they are completely absent in sand, since there is too little edible material there. If there is not enough food in the compost pile, the worms will gradually “disappear.” Therefore, if you want to have a supply of dung worms at any time, you need to regularly provide the dung heap with new portions of food.
Any kitchen, garden and household waste is suitable for composting; worms especially love peelings and waste of unprocessed vegetables and fruits, coffee filters with their contents, wet tea leaves, last year's leaves and grass clippings, bedding on which small animals are kept, as well as mixed with straw the manure of herbivores. Cut tree branches and shredded wood, as well as shavings and sawdust, are used for loosening, but this must be untreated wood, not impregnated with chemicals.
If dung worms feel good and are provided with enough food, they form real “nests”, the size of a child’s head, from which you can very quickly collect a supply of worms for fishing. Peels of oranges and other citrus fruits, cat litter, meat scraps and roast sauces or other highly peppery food scraps, ash, or the contents of a vacuum cleaner container should not be thrown into the manure pile. Manure from animals that have just been treated with anthelmintic drugs is almost fatal to worms. Leftover medications also kill worms.
Another good place to look for manure worms is in waste piles containing rotted corn silage. To store winter feed for dairy cows, many farmers make large silage pits filled with chopped corn in the fall. In the spring, the remains not eaten by cows end up in a large compost heap, to the right and left of the silo, where it all slowly rots and thickly grows with thickets of nettles and quinoa. Such deposits often hide an incredible number of dung worms. In such “gold mines” you can get kilograms of valuable worms for free. To dig them up, you need to use a pitchfork rather than a shovel, since a shovel cuts through many worms. Damaged worms die and doom healthy specimens.
Urban people who do not have personal plots, as a rule, do not know how to build compost heaps. Fortunately, manure worms can be grown in a box or plastic barrel in the basement or on the balcony. But you still need to follow some rules.
Coolness and aeration guarantee success in urban environments
Sufficient aeration is important. Plastic containers must have ventilation holes not only in the bottom, but also in the side walls, otherwise the compost will begin to rot and smell bad. It is also important that the water that is formed during composting does not accumulate at the bottom of the container, but can drain. Although dung worms love a moist environment, they cannot tolerate stagnant moisture.
The container with worms must be positioned so that it is protected from overheating. Cool basements, north-facing or shaded balconies all day work best, even in summer.
If you are planning to grow worms yourself, you need to create a “biotope” for them. A drainage layer of finely lumpy clay, fragments of broken flower pots or small broken bricks is placed at the bottom of the container. Covering it with several sheets of newsprint, pour a nutrient layer of rotted compost into the container, and on top - an aeration layer of moistened newspaper scraps, scraps of paper or sawdust. Then again comes the nutrient layer, and after it the aeration layer; they are alternated until the entire container is filled, not reaching the top by about 10 cm.
Feeding worms
As already mentioned, dung worms should be fed with vegetable kitchen scraps. However, vegetables attract fruit flies. Therefore, unprocessed vegetable waste is better, as well as coffee grounds along with filters. To prevent access to flies, containers containing growing media should always be covered with corrugated cardboard, sawdust, several layers of newsprint, or thick burlap. It is important to completely replace the substrate for growing worms several times a year.
If you don't raise worms yourself, but only occasionally borrow from a friend who has his own garden, store them in a large bucket. A mixture of damp leaves and soil with a few handfuls of compost added will be enough to keep the worms alive for several weeks. But the bucket should be in a cool place, preferably in the basement. A small supply of worms for one fishing day can be stored in large boxes with moistened sawdust from wood that has not been treated with chemicals.
Caution - danger of escape!
When growing and storing dung worms in closed containers, one has to face an important problem - the constant readiness to escape if they do not like the conditions in which they find themselves. Too little food, too wet a growing medium, or simply a loose container of worms - and they leave the box, finding and exploiting the smallest cracks. To avoid this, all ventilation openings should be covered with cloth or thick gauze. This will ensure the necessary air exchange, but the worms will not be able to escape.
The solution may be to constantly illuminate the basement with a small energy-saving lamp. Because dung worms are afraid of light, they will not leave the box. The danger of escape also exists during fishing itself. A jar of worms, especially when fishing at night, must always be carefully closed, otherwise the worms will escape to freedom under the protection of darkness.
Popular about earthworms
Earthworms (crawlers) belong to a large suborder of oligochaete worms. They are distributed on all continents, excluding Antarctica. There are many types of worms, differing in size and external characteristics. For example, the body length of the Dichogaster worm is on average only 2 cm, while the Megascolides australis worms reach 3 meters in length.
The name “earthworms” was given to the peculiarity of their behavior. In the warm season, during rains, crawlers appear en masse on the soil surface. There is a simple explanation for this: worms have so-called shallow breathing, which occurs through the skin. During rains, as well as fogs and heavy dew, the soil becomes waterlogged and the crawlers begin to lack oxygen. As a result, they crawl out of their burrows onto the soil surface to “breathe.”
Earthworms have found use in many industries. With their help, high-quality vermicompost is obtained - an environmentally friendly and very effective fertilizer. Pre-processed crawling biomass increases the nutritional value of feed rations for farm animals and birds. There are known methods for using earthworms in medicine. The powder obtained from them was used to treat various wounds, tuberculosis, jaundice and rheumatism. Chinese traditional medicine uses worms to treat atherosclerosis. Some indigenous peoples of Australia and Africa eat crawlers as food.
This article will focus on the most common use of earthworms - as fishing bait, and will provide recommendations for their preparation, storage and breeding in amateur conditions.
How to breed earthworms for fishing
For anglers who fish on a regular basis or who often go fishing, it makes sense to organize the breeding of earthworms for fishing at home. This will allow you to avoid purchasing similar bait in stores. If desired, surplus grown crawls can be sold or delivered to fishing stores for sale.
Don’t torment yourself with questions about how to breed earthworms for fishing - in practice, this is a fairly simple process. It does not involve significant financial costs and the use of expensive equipment.
Selecting a room
First of all, you need to decide on the room in which to organize the breeding of crawlies. The best option would be a room with a temperature in the autumn-winter season of at least +4°C. Otherwise, in winter you risk being left without bait, since at low temperatures the worms stop reproducing and hibernate. For these purposes, you can use a heated garage, basement of a house, or a warm barn. A barn or a private chicken coop would be perfect. We would not dare to recommend a balcony or loggia for breeding crawlers, since not all household members can agree to this.
"Nursery" for rain crawls
However, having decided on a room for breeding rain crawlers, you need to make or select a “container” for breeding worms. This could be a wooden box, an old refrigerator or washing machine, the case of an old tube TV, a strong parcel box - in other words, any box that reliably holds the soil from spilling and does not allow the worms to “escape”. The volume of such a box is selected based on the number of rain crawlers that will be grown in it. The optimal placement of crawlers in the ground is considered to be such that no more than 40-45 crawlers live in one cubic decimeter of soil. At higher planting densities, the worms stop reproducing and become smaller.
The breeding box must have a lid with holes for ventilation. The same holes are made in the side walls of the box. If there is a high density of crawlers in the box, it would be advisable to provide holes in the bottom to drain the “waste products” of the worms.
When placing the box in a barn, garage or livestock premises, it is necessary to provide protection for the structure from rodents.
We create a “habitat” for crawling creatures
Let’s start with a practical solution to the problem - how to breed worms at home for fishing. We are preparing the soil structure in which earthworms will breed and live. Clay and sandy soils should not be used. It is better to take light black soil and add to it various crushed plant residues (excluding rice straw), crushed peat, sawdust, fallen leaves, rotted chicken manure, waste from the processing of corn, wheat, sunflower, soybeans and other agricultural crops. Mix the soil and agricultural waste thoroughly and let it sit for 4-5 days. During this time, any ammonia that may be present in the agricultural waste will evaporate. The worm nurseries are ready to receive crawlings.
Filling the box with worms
We fill the box with a mixture of soil and agricultural waste. We make sure that there are no large lumps, and if necessary, chop it. It has been established experimentally that for successful breeding, about one kilogram of crawling plants must be planted per square meter of soil surface (this is approximately 1000 pieces). It is advisable to plant healthy, viable individuals. It is best to prepare them yourself, collecting them from the ground during rain or in the morning during fog. Lightly moisten the soil in the box, form a small depression into which to place the prepared crawlers. Fill the top with rotted raw leaves or chopped grass and add another 2-3 cm of loosened soil. Lightly moisten the surface and cover (without compacting!) with a lid.
Earthworm breeding technology
Answering the question “how to breed worms for fishing”, it is necessary to talk in more detail about what will happen in the box with the already planted crawlings. We will conditionally divide all the soil in the box vertically into three zones:
- the upper zone serves for periodic moistening and feeding of the worms;
- the middle zone is the main place of their habitat and reproduction;
- the waste products of the crawlers will enter the lower zone.
After planting, the worms are not disturbed for 3-5 days, giving them the opportunity to get used to the new habitat. You can evaluate the success of planting worms in a box by making 2-3 holes in different places. If the crawls spread throughout the box, the landing and acclimatization were successful.
Further care for the worms consists of periodically moistening the soil and feeding. Once a week, the prepared food is laid out in a layer of about 4-5 cm on the surface of the soil and covered with a lid (without compacting it!). If necessary, the feed is moistened.
A simple tester can be used to determine if there is enough food in the crate. To do this, place a moistened paper napkin under the lid. After 2-3 days we check - if the crawlies start eating the napkin, it means they don’t have enough food and it needs to be added.
Feeding the worms
When breeding earthworms, you should take care in advance about what to feed the earthworms for fishing. Good and timely feed is a prerequisite for raising healthy and strong crawlers. Food waste rotted in a compost heap is excellent for these purposes: chopped fruits and vegetables, eggshells, baked goods, used tea leaves, leaves, grass and manure. It is not recommended to use cat and dog excrement, remains of hot seasonings, citrus fruits, dairy products, oils, fats, fish and meat to feed worms.
Reproduction of worms
Earthworms are typical hermaphrodites. Each sexually mature individual has two reproductive systems: male and female. When reproducing, they use cross-fertilization. The crawl has a characteristic belt in which the eggs are fertilized and develop, then laid in the form of cocoons. Having reached the age of 2-3 months, the worms become sexually mature. From this time on, they begin to lay weekly cocoons that emerge from the girdle. Each cocoon, after three weeks of maturation, produces up to 20 young individuals, which after 2-3 months also begin to reproduce. Thus, after six months the number of crawlers in the box will increase 50 times.
Preserving a crawl for fishing purposes
Having grown beautiful worms, you can go fishing. How to ensure storage of earthworms for fishing?
For short-term fishing - no more than 4-5 days - the bait can be stored in a cotton bag along with the soil. In extreme cases, a canvas mitten will do. The fabric will provide air access, and the worms will be perfectly preserved. To prevent the “escape” of crawlings, the bag must be tied. Bait packaged in this way should be stored in a cool place.
For longer fishing - up to two weeks - the crawls along with the soil should be loaded into a bucket. A five-liter bucket can comfortably store up to 300 grams of crawlies. The top of the bucket should be covered with cotton cloth and tied. Store in a cool place, avoiding direct sunlight.
Other types of worms for bait
Earthworms are used to catch the largest fish: catfish, carp, barbel, large bream. However, crawlers are not the only worms used by anglers as bait. The fisherman chooses which worms to go fishing with, taking into account the type of fish being caught and the characteristics of the reservoirs.
Dung or red worm. The most popular bait among anglers. Used for catching almost all types of fish. “White fish” respond best to this bait - crucian carp, bream, roach, dace, ide, gudgeon, silver bream and many others.
A mealworm is the larva of a flour beetle. Brownish-yellow in color, up to 2.5 cm long. Excellent bait for catching carp fish.
Nereis, estuary or sea worm. A favorite delicacy of valuable fish species of the Azov and Caspian seas. Fishermen successfully use this bait to catch pelengas, a sea fish of the mullet family. Nereis is caught in the silt deposits of salty estuaries and shallow sea bays. Harvesting Nereis is very labor-intensive. Bait is poorly preserved outside its usual habitat and quickly deteriorates.
California worm. Outwardly it resembles a dung worm, but is tougher and denser. It grows well under artificial conditions. An excellent bait for catching most fish during the warm season.
About how to make a worm more appetizing. can be read here.
The list of baits used by fishermen is quite wide, and earthworms occupy a worthy place in it. Experienced fishermen claim that the largest trophies were caught using an earthworm. May your fishing trips be successful too!
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Breeding dung worms at home
If you start breeding worms at home, you can have a sufficient amount of red dung worm throughout the year. The costs of breeding worms, feeding and care are minimal, but the effect is maximum. All fishermen know that fish love dung worms more than earthworms.
Worm box
Any plastic or wooden box measuring 600x400x300cm is suitable for this. Several holes should be drilled in the bottom of the container for drainage. The box can be placed on a tray filled with sand so that excess moisture flowing from the vessel is absorbed by the sand.
Priming
The bottom of the box is covered with a layer of hay or straw, about 5 cm thick, and the layer can be compacted a little. A layer of vermicompost is poured on top of the bottom layer, which can be purchased at a flower shop. 
Feed
The dung worm is not picky and can feed on any organic matter available at home, including various wastes in the form of vegetable and fruit peelings, except potato peelings. You can pass the cleaning through a meat grinder. From time to time, you can give eggshells ground into dust. The waste is poured in an even layer, 5-7 cm thick, and vermicompost is poured on top, in a layer of about 2 cm. You can add a portion of feed again as needed. To determine the moment when you can feed again, you should pay attention to the condition of the previous portion. If there are no food remains, then in its place there will be a layer of vermicompost, indicating that the worms have processed all the food. 
The first batch of worms can be launched into the prepared box.
Watering
After the first batch of worms has been launched, the vessel is spilled with a certain amount of water. The presence of drainage holes will not allow the water to stagnate, but it will help maintain a certain humidity in the container. The presence of a sufficient amount of water in the substrate can be checked by squeezing the substrate tightly in your fist. If moisture passes through your fingers, then the humidity is sufficient.
Watering should be done regularly, as needed. In this case, you should use only warm water, pre-settled for at least 3 days.
Watering is also carried out immediately after feeding. The dish can be covered with a lid or a piece of corrugated cardboard, which the worms are unlikely to refuse. 
Temperature
Dung worms are bred at a temperature of +18-24°C, which is optimal for them.
Settlement
Under good conditions, after about 2 months, the dung worm population can increase 2-6 times. This will indicate that the worms should be resettled. They are settled using exactly the same technology, and for this you will need to prepare several boxes.
Of course, several boxes for one fisherman is too much, but having a box on hand in which you can always catch a dung worm is what you need. After all, there are periods, both in summer and winter, when you will not find either a dung worm or an earthworm, this is especially true in the height of summer, when it is hot outside and the worms burrow into the ground and it is very difficult to get them out.
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Winter fishing for perch. The most catchy ways
Winter fishing for perch is perhaps the most exciting and active fishing during this period of the year. Because it involves actively moving around a body of water in search of the striped prankster. But knowing his habits well and having a bit of luck, there is a chance that you will find a place that will keep you for a long time. And now in more detail about how to catch perch from ice.
Finding a place to catch perch from ice
Early winter
Perch begins to catch a week after the freeze-up; now its bite is very active (almost like before spawning) and lasts two to three weeks.
It is necessary to start searching for perch from grassy areas and areas adjacent to capes, as well as in areas where summer perch fishing has been successful and gradually move to deeper areas. Experienced fishermen have noticed that fishing for perch from ice is most successful on shallows, bay coasts, near capes and piers, as well as on the edges of holes and channels. In these places, preference should be given to a hard bottom or one covered with snags. When catching perch, the tactic is the more holes, the better. At each hole we carry out 3-4 runs and move on to the next.
A gradual cooling causes the perch to break up into smaller schools and disperse more throughout the reservoir.
Glukhozimye
During this period, it is necessary to prepare in advance for winter fishing for perch. First of all, purchase a map of the reservoir and thoroughly study its topography (locations of shallows, depth changes), carefully consider your route. We are still interested in shallows, but we begin to adhere to the rule that the thicker the ice, the farther from the shore we look for minke whales.
Preference:
- the edges of the shallows smoothly transition to depth;
- shallows between holes;
- the tops of the edges, especially if there is a fairly flat plateau or a gentle slope.
- The depth at which we look for fish is 2-3 m.
There is no need to sit for a long time over one hole and wait for the perch to deign to honor you with its presence. In winter, the fish have little activity and you need to find them yourself. Winter fishing for perch is characterized by great variability in
During perch feeding periods, if today you caught a whole bag, then tomorrow the same body of water may be deserted, and you won’t even see a single bite. An example of this behavior can be seen in the figure. 
In clear weather, the fish is wary of snowless places and then it is better to position itself in a shady bank or try to darken the hole, for example, throw slush around the hole (slush is whitish loose ice or pieces of snow, can be both on the surface of the ice and under it), leave it in the hole is not advisable since thin tackle will be used.
You should look for perch in pits only during periods of severe frost.
The beginning of spring
On the eve of spring, perch become more active and begin to move around the reservoir, especially large perch, which quite often travel in schools at medium depths or almost at the very bottom plane of the ice.
Also, promising places for catching perch from ice are areas where a stream flows into a reservoir; fish come here in search of oxygen.
The activity of the perch can manifest itself throughout the daylight hours, and it happens that in the morning and afternoon the striper did not take, but in the evening it began to delight with bites. Evening activity is shortest.
As for the weather, fishing for perch from ice is most effective when it is frosty and there is no wind.
How to make holes correctly
The holes must be made one after another, until the first catch is on the ice, the distance between the holes is 5-10 m. If the hole brought you one or two perches and then the bite disappeared, then you should make several holes side by side in 1-2 meters from her. Thus, we comb the fishing area, making 5-7 searches. If the fish bite occasionally, then it’s worth going through them again, because perhaps there is a school somewhere that has not yet started feeding. To increase the likelihood of biting, the holes can be fed with bloodworms, using special feeding troughs, which, when hooked, are freed from contents in a stagnant pond; you can feed without feeding troughs, simply throwing the bloodworms into the water. Typically, anglers drill 8-10 holes, simultaneously feeding with bloodworms, then go to the first hole and begin to fish it. If you have bloodworms in limited quantities, then feed only those holes where you had a bite, this may arouse the interest of large perch.
Groundbait and bait for winter fishing for perch
Lure
Recipe 1
The most common bait is bloodworms, and it is often mixed with breadcrumbs. Some fishermen have been stocking up on dung worms since the fall, keeping them in basements, using boxes or buckets of soil for storage, periodically moistening them. Before fishing, the worms are finely chopped and mixed in proportion with breadcrumbs. Both bloodworms and chopped worms go in combination with breadcrumbs 1:1. Before feeding, it is more convenient to roll the resulting mixture into a ball, and then throw it into the hole.
Recipe 2
Perch also reacts well to bread crumb mixed with fresh pork blood. Blood is added in such quantity that the crumb turns into dough. Next, we make a thin sausage from it and wrap it in a bag. At the pond, we simply break off pieces and throw them into the hole.
Recipe 3
Finely chopped pieces of chicken giblets.
You can also use various attractants or flavorings with an animal odor, adding them to bait (for example, breadcrumbs) or applying them to bait.
Bait
The following can be used as bait for catching perch from ice:
- Dragonfly larvae;
- Bloodworm;
- Pieces of bright insulating wire, polystyrene foam, woolen thread;
- Muckworm.
Winter fishing for perch with a jig
Tackle
When catching perch with a jig, you need to start with a rather rough tackle in the hope of an active bite, as a rule, this is a fishing line with a diameter of 0.09-0.1 mm, maximum 0.12 mm, with such tackle you can pull out a large perch weighing half a kilogram. If the bite is bad, you should try fishing with more delicate rigs of 0.06-0.07 mm, of course, if a large perch is caught on the hook, then even an experienced angler will have difficulty pulling it out.
You can fish with a jig with or without a bloodworm, but you have a better chance of catching with a bloodworm, so to explore the hole we attach one bloodworm, then depending on the behavior of the fish (if the bite is weak, then it’s worth increasing the number of bloodworms to two or three). Before you start fishing, the hole must be cleared of any remaining ice so as not to damage the fishing line.
It is better to choose jigs made of tungsten alloy; they differ from lead jigs in being more compact with the same weight, in addition, most lead jigs have a small and blunt hook, although there are exceptions. For fishing in the dead of winter on stagnant reservoirs and reservoirs with weak currents, a jig weighing 0.2-0.3 grams is sufficient; with an active bite, it is worth taking a heavier one, 0.4 grams, so that it reaches the bottom faster. If you use sports jigs, then the diameter of the jig with an active perch is 2.8-3.5 mm and with a passive one 2.0-2.8.
The best choice for winter perch fishing is a fishing rod that is similar in design to a balalaika, but this is not an axiom, the most important thing is that it sits comfortably in the hand and has a non-cold handle. The whip is thin and soft. The length of the rod is 20-25 cm. The reel should spin without jamming. The cone-shaped nod is considered the most sensitive. You should take with you several different fishing rods, 5-6, differing in the diameter of the fishing line and the weight of the jig. On the fishing rod you should write the line number and the weight of the jig.
The color and shape of the jig will not play such an important role. But still the most popular jigs are in the form:
- Sharika;
- Rectangle;
- Spheres;
- Truncated pyramid;
- Cylinder;
Some fishermen put on colored pieces of insulating wire (yellow, green, red) instead of bloodworms.
Technique for catching perch from ice with a jig
There are many wiring methods, but I will tell you about two. The first is faster and easier to start with, the second takes a little longer, but can give results when the first does not work.
Method No. 1
We sit down against the wind and lower the jig into the hole; as soon as it sinks to the bottom, we tap it three times, raising the jig slightly (2-3 cm), then we pull the line and slowly reel it out. If there is a perch and it intends to feed, then it will immediately make itself known. If we made two entries and he doesn’t react at all, then we move to the next hole and repeat again. When lowering the jig, you need to be on alert, since the perch can stand in mid-water and attack our bait on the descent.
Method number 2
We lower the jig and when it touches the bottom, it raises it by 25-35 cm, producing oscillations of moderate frequency at this moment. Then we calmly lower the jig back to the bottom and make 5-6 taps on the bottom, then slowly raise the jig to a height of 6-7 cm, take a short pause and return it to the bottom again. Now we smoothly raise the jig to a height of 20-25 cm, and begin periodically tapping the whip with our finger. After 20-25 seconds, lower the tackle back and repeat 2 more times. After we unwind the tackle and move on to the next hole, if we are lucky, catching perch from the ice continues until the bite on the hole subsides.
Video of catching perch from ice using a jig
Winter fishing for perch with lures
The advantages of this method over a jig are the speed of fishing. The spoon sinks to depth faster, and given that the fishing line is thicker, there is no need to be careful when fishing. This is important, because perch is a schooling fish, and a school can leave the fishing point at any time. There are also disadvantages: if played incorrectly, you can scare the fish, and the tackle is rougher than jigs.
Catching perch from the ice with a spoon is undesirable in snags and places rich in vegetation, as you risk losing a large number of baits. But if you decide to fish in such places, be sure to take a cutter with you.
Tackle for catching perch from ice
An ordinary fishing rod with a reel for storing fishing line and a length of 30-50 centimeters, equipped with a nod. Monk fishing line with a diameter of 0.18-0.2 mm; if the bite is sluggish, it makes sense to try using more delicate gear 0.12-0.14 mm. That is why we take with us 5-6 fishing rods equipped with fishing lines of different thicknesses and sizes of spinners. 
The best lures for bass are those made from brass, tin, silver or copper.
Over the years of practice, it was noticed that matte spoons are more effective on sunny days, and shiny ones, on cloudy days. During winter fishing, perch shows greater interest in the pattern on these spoons. Therefore, if the minke whale does not want to be caught on a smooth one, replace it with one that has imitation scales.
One of our main tasks when fishing for perch from ice with a spoon is to force the fish to attack the tail of our bait, since this is where the hook is located. To attract perch to this particular part of the bait, fishermen attach bright (often red) beads or woolen threads to the shank of the hook; when reeling, the bait resembles a fish that is hunting, it looks natural.
As for the size, spinners 3-5 cm long are the most catchy and versatile, with them winter fishing for perch will almost always be successful. If you catch small perches in shallow water, then it makes sense to switch to smaller spoons of 1.5-2 cm. When the perch is in holes at a depth, or you are targeting large individuals, it is more appropriate to use spoons measuring 5 cm or more. 
In terms of shape, straight spinners work better, as well as those that have the shape of a cone with corners (trihedron, rhombus). Such spoons, when raised, lowered or pulled to the side, can twist and play with edges, arousing the interest of the fish.
Spoons can be divided into:
- Vertical - best suited for fishing in the middle of winter, when the perch is inactive. The best option is heavy spoons 3 cm long, for example “cloves”. Also, such spoons are suitable for currents; they have a fairly high accuracy, and they will not move much outside the hole and disrupt the game. Although some anglers specifically use lighter spoons, letting the current drag them through, and then catching perch in the retrieve.
- Gliding lures are great for fishing in shallow and still waters. When guiding, they can significantly deviate to the side and fish a large area, so gliding spoons are preferable for active perch.
If you are fishing in deep water, then you will need heavy spoons that will sink quickly into the water.
When you go winter fishing for perch, you need to have at least 6-10 spinners that differ in color, size, shape and action, as well as the number and method of attaching hooks. Single, double, tee, tightly soldered to the spinner, or taken out at a distance and connected to it with the help of a chain. 
Fishing for perch from ice
Donnaya. We lower the spoon to the bottom, move it lightly and lift it a little, do this 2-5 times. Then we sharply raise it 30-50 cm from the bottom, and if there is no bite, we lower it again and repeat the game.
Normal flashing. We slowly lower the spoon to the bottom, while every 15-20 cm on the descent we shake the equipment. At the moment when the bait reaches the bottom, we sharply lift it up to the edge of the hole and repeat the wiring again.
Scraper. Slowly lower the spoon to the bottom. Then we take the fishing rod and move it between the edges of the hole, following our fishing rod, the bait on the bottom also moves. It is worth noting here that wiring will be effective only on hard ground, without vegetation and snags. It is also advisable to make wide holes.
Teasing. The spoon is on the bottom. We slowly, without jerking, lift it 20-35 cm up and then smoothly lower it back. Then after a few seconds we repeat the wiring again.
Remember, when retrieving you always need to experiment; often a perch can bite even the usual chaotic swings of a fishing rod.
In the hope of an active bite, winter fishing for perch begins with larger spoons and then, if the perch is not active, smaller spoons are used.
Catching perch from ice on a balance beam
The classic balancer is a tackle that resembles a fish. It has two hooks on the sides, at the bottom in the center there is a ring for attaching the tee, on top there is a ring to which our fishing line is attached, preferably through a clasp, so that you can quickly change the balancer. 
The fishing rod is taken with a hard whip and a soft nod, the length of the fishing rod is 30-40 cm. The reel is a simple inertial one, used for winding the fishing line. Monofilament fishing line, 0.12-0.18 mm thick, depending on the size and activity of the fish.
For winter fishing for perch on a balance beam, we need to choose a place with a hard bottom, free from algae and snags.
Fishermen most often use balancers ranging in size from 3 to 6 cm. I believe that it is necessary to start fishing with balancers 4.5-5 cm long in the hope of a large perch, and if the fish does not take it, try using smaller ones 3-2 cm. Also The size of the balancer also depends on the depth.
The shape of the bait is:
- Narrow-bodied;
- Potbellied;
It’s difficult to say which of them is more catchy, so it’s worth taking both types when fishing.
It is advisable to choose baits of natural colors. At the same time, a balancer that has the color of a perch works very well, because this predator is not a stranger to cannibalism. When fishing with a similar color, the probability of catching a large perch is quite high. Winter fishing for perch using balancers of bright poisonous colors can give results when the activity of the predator is weak.
In bright and blinding sun, it is better to use baits with dull pale shades. It is important to take with you to the pond as many balancers of different colors and sizes as possible, since it is difficult to guess the wishes of the minke whale.
Also, many anglers advise using balancers with a soft tail; they behave more naturally than hard baits.
Catching a predator is always an experiment; instead of a classic balancer, you can use a winter vibrating tail or additionally put a retractable leash with a hook on the tackle, on which to place a fly, a bead or a piece of woolen thread. 
Technique for catching perch using a balance beam from ice
We lower the tackle to the bottom, then raise it 3-5 cm and make smooth swings of the rod up 10-30 cm. In order not to disturb the animation, after each swing we must return our hand to its original position. If after 20-30 strokes the fish has not made itself known, we move on to the next hole.
Another type of animation is short, sharp swings of the hand, having a small amplitude of up to 7 cm.
When the bite is weak, the following tactic works well. We lower the tackle to the bottom, then with a slight acceleration we raise the balancer up with a wave of your straightened arm, while the tip of the fishing rod should be directed upward. At the top point we make a sharp movement (as if you are shaking off adhering algae). Then slowly lower the balancer to the bottom, smoothly swinging it with your hand. So we make 5-10 swings and move on to the next hole.
Perch fishing with “bulda” bait
Equipment Features
This tackle for catching perch from ice is simple, but at the same time it can bring good results.
You can even make it at home. It consists of a massive drop-shaped or spindle-shaped lead sinker and two hooks. Many fishermen paint it in bright colors to further increase the interest of the fish. Depending on the fishing conditions (still water, current, depth), the size of the sinker can vary from several grams to several tens. Hooks are used with wide rings; they are not suitable for us with shoulder blades.
The tackle is easy to knit. We thread a hook into the fishing line, then a small cambric or bead, then we pass the sinker, thread the cambric (bead) and then the hook, now we knit a loop (loop size 5-7 cm), as a result our hooks are located on the sides of the sinker. Cambrics, beads, and possibly bloodworms are attached to the hooks.
The fishing rod is taken to be short, with 2-3 guide rings and a nod (the nod additionally serves as an indicator to us that the bait lies on the bottom, and not 2-3 cm from it). The rod of the fishing rod must be rigid so that you can lift the weight from the bottom without delay. Reel, a regular reel for winding fishing line. The fishing line is strong 0.2-0.3 mm, the heavier the bulldozer, the stronger the fishing line.
Fishing technique
Winter fishing for perch using a canopy is effective during periods of greatest activity of perch (the first two to three weeks after the ice freezes, the last weeks of winter). The thing is that the technique of luring fish is quite aggressive.
So, we slowly lower our load to the bottom; here we need to be careful; an active perch can bite immediately on the descent. When the bait lies on the ground, we sharply wave the fishing rod and lift our weight 10-20 centimeters from the bottom, then let the weight 
fall back on your own, and pull the line, wait in this position for 2-10 seconds and repeat the swing again. If there is no bite or it is weak, it is worth starting to experiment, increasing or decreasing the intervals of raising the tackle, as well as the height to which we raise it. If the perch is silent, then you should change the hole.
Balda is very effective in areas with muddy and soft bottoms, because when it hits the bottom, it creates turbidity, which arouses the interest of the predator and lures it. Balda is a bottom tackle, so catching perch from ice on a Balda will be most successful when it is in the lower layers of the water.
Video winter fishing for perch
Well, as you understand, catching perch from ice requires a significant investment of effort and energy from the angler. But you won’t get bored or cold on the pond, since winter fishing for perch means constantly moving around in the squeaks of new places for striper whales to stay. Just like the saying “the legs feed the wolf.”
Despite the huge variety of artificial baits for fishing, nothing can replace real worms. Therefore, anyone who knows a lot about this prefers to always have them at hand. That is why many fishermen ask a logical question: “How to breed worms for fishing yourself?”
Fans of winter fishing know very well how difficult it is to get the necessary bait at this time. It’s good if bloodworms are available for sale. And if it is not there, then you have to use any available food, which does not always guarantee a successful catch. As a result, many people are thinking about how to breed worms for fishing at home.
General information about earthworms
Almost any fish can be caught with this bait. There are several varieties of the mentioned living organisms that are popular among fishermen. How to breed earthworms? How are they different from others? This common name hides a number of families of oligochaete worms. The most common individuals have a body of 3-15 cm. There are worms 2.5-40 cm long. There are 1,500 species, however, the bulk are found in the tropics. There are about 100 species of worms in temperate latitudes. They live in the ground and are active at night. During the day they can be found on the ground after rain. Due to the fact that during their digestion they process organic residues, they obtain the most valuable fertilizer - vermicompost. When thinking about the question of how to breed earthworms, you need to understand the most common types of this fish bait.
Red worms
Many fishermen believe that red worms are the most attractive bait. They are suitable for both industrial and home propagation. At the same time, in a fairly short period of time, you can get a large increase in their biomass. The body of such creatures contains proteins, fats, carbohydrates, and minerals, making them an excellent food not only for fish, but also for domestic animals and birds.
How to breed red worms? There are different ways to grow them. In one cycle, lasting 3 months, up to 30 kg of worms are collected from 1 m2. To feed them, almost any organic waste is used, such as food waste, animal manure, bird droppings, straw, waste from the paper, woodworking, meat and fishing industries.
Habitat conditions for red worms
How to breed worms in the garden? To do this, it is necessary to satisfy their need for nitrogen-containing organic matter. In such an environment, their growth and fertility are greatly enhanced. Sufficient soil moisture is required to grow red worms. If it is below 30-35%, then the development of individuals will be inhibited. If the humidity level drops below 22%, they can die within a week. This is why it is necessary to water the soil regularly. Its optimal humidity is 70-85%.
Soil acidity below pH5 and above pH9 is unsuitable for breeding worms. In such an environment they will die within a week. The best option is soil that has an acidity of pH7. They also cannot tolerate saline soil, and a salt concentration of more than 0.5% is simply lethal for them.
At temperatures below 5 °C, worms do not feed. They crawl deep into the soil and hibernate. As a rule, they wake up 10-14 days before the soil thaws. The optimal temperature for their breeding is 18-24 °C.
Reproduction of red worms
Each adult lays 18-24 cocoons in the summer. They contain from 1 to 20 eggs. After 3 weeks, young individuals appear, and after 7-9 weeks they can already bear offspring themselves. Most often, one individual lives 10-15 years. Moreover, with age their size only increases. Sexually mature young worms weigh about 1 g each.
Growing worms
How to breed dung worms? A sufficient number of individuals are collected in old heaps of humus or in accumulations of rotten last year's foliage. Such worms are not so common in ordinary soil, but they can be found in some places with high humidity (for example, in a raspberry field). Dung worms are very similar to red worms. Only when hooked on a hook do they release yellow contents that have an unpleasant odor.
To create a worm cultivator, you need only about 500 individuals per 1 square meter. m. One of the main factors for the successful reproduction of these organisms is the quality of the substrate in which they will live. It uses manure, straw, hay, sawdust, which are thoroughly mixed. Dense compost creates an ideal environment for worms to live and reproduce. It should remain moist even in dry weather.
Construction of a worm-cultivator
In a shady area of the site, dig a small ditch (no more than 2 m2) with a depth of 30-35 cm. A layer of clay is placed and compacted at its bottom. It should rise to the very edges of the ditch. The thickness of this layer is 10 cm. Good soil (preferably black soil) is poured on top of the clay. Next, the groove is filled with humus, which is thoroughly compacted. You cannot add ash or coal to it, since worms cannot tolerate them.
The collected individuals are poured into the substrate, distributing them evenly throughout the groove. In such a worm house you can grow not only dung or red worms, but also ordinary earthworms or earthworms. For each of these species, the most suitable substrate composition is selected. So, for earthworms and earthworms, you should not add manure to the soil. It's better to limit yourself to compost.
When breeding dung worms in warm winters, they can be collected for fishing even during frosts. How can we explain this phenomenon? This is due to the fact that a large amount of manure in the substrate increases the temperature in it. For the winter, the worm house is covered with bags and sprinkled with earth and snow.
Breeding worms at home
How to breed earthworms at home? Although the vast majority of people breed them in their summer cottage or garden plot, some avid fishermen manage to do this in apartment conditions. True, not everyone succeeds in this, but those who have learned to breed worms in an apartment are provided with good bait all year round.
How to breed worms for fishing at home? To do this, you need to choose the right container to contain them. A wooden or plastic box can serve as housing. As a last resort, you can use a regular canvas bag for this. But worms will not be able to live long in such containers. For long-term breeding, it is better to use enamel dishes, a basin or bucket. Worms will do just fine in an old aquarium.
After choosing a container, they begin to prepare the substrate. It should consist of soil in which there is no or very little humus. The best soil for this purpose is one that has few fallen leaves and grass roots. This is due to the fact that when this organic matter rots, it takes a lot of oxygen from the soil, which is necessary for the normal functioning of the organisms we are considering.
Feeding the worms
Answering the question of how to quickly breed worms, we can say with confidence that the speed of their growth and reproduction depends entirely on the food. Almost any organic waste (peeling vegetables or fruits), unsweetened tea leaves, coffee grounds and boiled or raw oatmeal are suitable for them to eat. It must be remembered that dry food helps reduce the level of moisture in the soil. To increase the rate of reproduction of worms, many advise giving them dairy products. Under no circumstances should you give them potato peelings.
The worms are fed at the following rate: 3 handfuls of cereal per 15 liters of soil. When adding nutrition to the soil, it should not be left on the surface. It is necessary to mix the soil thoroughly by hand. If a “tangle” is discovered, consisting of many individuals intertwined with each other, they must be carefully separated, evenly distributed throughout the entire container. If this is not done, many of the worms will die due to the increased temperature inside such a lump.
Compliance with containment conditions
When thinking about the question of how to properly breed worms, you should not forget about maintaining optimal conditions that ensure the normal functioning of these simple animals. To do this, it is necessary to constantly maintain appropriate humidity. To determine the condition of the soil, it is squeezed in a fist. If a lump forms after it is unclenched, then the humidity is normal. At the same time, we must not forget that excess moisture has an adverse effect on worms.
Despite the fact that these creatures do not like low temperatures, they should not be placed in close proximity to heating devices, as they will quickly die there. The optimal temperature regime for normal development of worms is 17-24 °C. The container is placed in a dark place, away from direct sunlight.
You can contain different types of worms (earthworms, red ones) in one container, but it is better to allocate “separate housing” to each subspecies. When raising these animals using this method, you can collect up to 1 kg of fish bait per week from a 30 liter container.
Growing worms in a summer cottage
How to breed worms for fishing in the country? The simplest way is to dig a small ditch, 30 cm wide. Its depth should be 15-20 cm. Rotting leaves, grass, hay, and humus are placed in the ditch. The top is covered with boards or burlap. After 7-12 days, earthworms will appear in it. A special dwelling is built for them, which is a wooden box on legs with a removable lid. Its minimum size is 100 x 100 cm, and its height is 35-40 cm. A mesh with small cells (0.5 cm) is attached to the bottom of the box.
How to breed worms in the country? To do this, the box is placed in a shady place. It can be placed near the compost pit. About 20-25 cm of compost is poured into the bottom of the box. The worms are moved from the ditch along with a small amount of soil into this new home. The soil is moistened and covered with burlap. After a week, the box is filled to the top with compost and watered again. It is necessary to moisten the substrate 1-2 times a week (depending on the rate of drying).
Reproduction of worms
Over the course of 2-3 months, the worms lay cocoons in the ground. Moreover, each individual produces one cocoon weekly. 5-20 worms appear from it. The last clutch is observed at the end of July. The first offspring appear at the end of August. Already in October the worms become adults. For development and growth, they require a lot of food, so from July to November, a layer of compost with humus 10 cm thick is added to the box twice a month. During the digestion of the worms, vermicompost is obtained from it, which pours out through the mesh bottom of the box. In one season, the layer of accumulated valuable fertilizer can reach 25-30 cm. In winter, the worms' housing is left in place, insulated on top with compost, a layer of 20-30 cm. The sides are covered with earth and sand. When snow falls, a small snowdrift is poured onto the box.
In the spring, vermicompost is collected and used for its intended purpose, and most of the worms are spread around the site. Only a small number of individuals are left in the box for further reproduction.
Recently, fishermen are increasingly using mealworms, often called zoophobus, for bait. In large cities, they can be purchased at pet stores as they are used to feed a variety of animals. Where this is not possible, you can grow them yourself. How to breed mealworms at home?
You should choose a suitable location for their placement and a container for growing them. Large plastic boxes or trays without gaps are suitable for this. A fine mesh mesh is used as a cover. Flour, bran, sawdust, and ground crackers are poured into the bottom of such a container. The nutrient layer should be 2-10 cm. Acquired beetles, whose larvae are zoophobes, are placed in the trays. When using pupae, the breeding process will take longer. The number of beetles depends on the expected result.
After adults lay eggs, it takes 2 months before mealworms hatch. The humidity in the box with them should be about 50%. Worms develop best at a temperature of 26-28 ° C.
The larvae of beetles are omnivorous. Zoophobes are fed once every 2 days. They are given bran, oatmeal mixed with grated carrots, beets, and other vegetables.
Instead of an afterword
We looked at the most common ways to solve the question posed in the title of the article. Of course, it’s easier to buy bait in a store. However, after spending some time arranging the worm house and caring for its inhabitants, you will not lose either. Firstly, breeding worms cannot be called an expensive pleasure, rather the opposite. And secondly, you always have fresh bait at your fingertips, at any time of the year or day. And this, you see, is sometimes very important.
In fishing, different baits can be used - both artificial and live. But the dung worm is of particular interest to many fish species. In general, worms for fishing are a universal bait, although it is not always possible to buy them. True, they can be dug up, but only under certain conditions. In case of drought in summer, it is difficult to find a worm, not to mention winter fishing. Therefore, breeding worms for fishing at home may be a suitable choice for fishermen.
Worms loosen the soil
What benefits do worms bring?
It is difficult to overestimate the importance of worms. First of all, it should be noted their importance for increasing soil productivity. Let's look at the functions they perform as part of this task:
- creating fertile soil. In the process of their life, worms pass through themselves all organic residues and process them into humus, on which the fertility of the soil depends;
- loosening the soil;
- ensuring its aeration and moistening;
- soil disinfection - occurs due to the fact that worms, along with the soil, absorb a large number of fungi with their spores, nematodes, bacteria and other pests. By doing this, they not only destroy harmful substances in the soil, but also digest them in order to then release their intestinal microflora. It has an antibiotic effect that prevents pathogenic environments from developing in the soil.
Worms can also be an excellent food for poultry. This is of interest to:
- owners of subsidiary farms raising chickens, turkeys and other poultry;
- pet store owners who can use worms as a feed additive for their pets.
Worms create fertile soil Well, for us the greatest interest is the function of the worm - to act as bait for fishing. One of the most favorite delicacies for almost all types of fish is a dung worm. You need to look for such worms in manure or compressed wet leaves.
By appearance they are difficult to distinguish from ordinary red worms. The only difference is a slightly longer length and an unpleasant odor from the yellowish liquid that is released when the worm is baited. They also differ in their conditions of detention.
Technology for growing worms at home
The question of how to breed worms for fishing involves preparing all the necessary conditions for keeping them at home. It would seem that this could lead to unsanitary conditions in the house. But if you choose the right place and container, and also feed the worms wisely to prevent the appearance of unpleasant odors, then there will be no inconvenience from such a neighborhood.
Worm box
Growing worms for fishing requires a certain container, which can be a plastic, wooden or even cardboard box. If you are running your mini-farm for a long time, i.e. you plan to breed a large number of worms over a long period of time, then choose a plastic box. It is easier to clean and clean, and is also more durable.
If you plan to temporarily rear a small number of individuals, cardboard or wooden boxes are suitable. But you need to understand that the cardboard box will have to be changed often or inserted into another of the same kind, as it will quickly get wet and lose its shape.
In no case should you use metal containers, since metal can, when oxidized, release elements harmful to worms into the soil.
Growing worms in a box The dimensions of the box can be arbitrary, but the main requirements must be met:
- height must be at least 30 cm;
- the area is selected depending on the number of worms per 1000 adult individuals, at least 1 sq. m.
You must also remember to make holes in the box: in the bottom for drainage, and in the sides for air circulation. The more holes there are, the better. The holes must be placed evenly over the entire bottom area. The size of the holes should be small so that even young individuals cannot get out through them and crawl around the apartment. It is better to place the box on a tray with sand. This way, excess moisture will be absorbed and not leak onto the floor or shelving.
An old trough or bathtub, as well as special containers, can be used as an alternative container for living.
Priming
It is recommended to cover the bottom of the prepared container with a small layer (about 5–6 cm) of compacted straw or hay. A ten-centimeter layer of vermicompost should be evenly poured on top. If you do not want to buy vermicompost, you can prepare a suitable substrate yourself. It should include chopped straw and hay, as well as sawdust, manure and soil. All components must be thoroughly mixed and compressed.
Worm soil When collecting soil for the substrate, you need to ensure that no remaining ash from the fire gets into it, because this can be destructive for pets. The presence of fresh humus in the ground will also have a bad effect on the worms. After all, leaves and roots will rot at high temperatures, and at the same time oxygen is taken from the soil. With a lack of oxygen, the worms will not only be unable to develop and reproduce, but also survive.
Having prepared the soil, you can populate the container with worms 
Worm food Today, almost every person is trying to start their own business. However, not everyone succeeds. Often, competitors do not allow you to break into a large market, or you don’t like the job. Have you considered breeding worms at home as a business? No? Then this material is for you.
Which worms are best to choose?
First of all, remember that breeding such animals does not require breed selection. To start, you can use a local variety. For example, dung worms, the breeding of which does not require special expenses, adapt perfectly to life in nurseries. Such individuals begin to reproduce much faster. This leads to the first conclusion: it is better to collect worms yourself. The simplest of them are rain ones. Breeding worms as a business in this situation will not require large expenses.
Where to get worms
If you decide to start breeding worms as a business, you should collect them. To do this, dig a shallow hole and place some rotting leaves or manure in it. Be sure to moisten the filler. The main thing is not to overdo it. After this, simply cover the hole with a board or a layer of cardboard. A week later, the first residents will appear in your “house”. Transfer the individuals to the box along with the soil in which they lived. For worm breeding as a business to generate income, at least a kilogram of invertebrates is required per square meter. This is about 1000 individuals.
Choosing a room
When you have collected worms, you need to think about the place where they will live. A specially equipped room is not required for their breeding. It is important that its area matches your desires. Of course, it is best to breed Californian worms (or any other) in a heated building. A garage or cellar is perfect for these purposes. If you are going to raise your pets in a regular barn, then get ready for the fact that a decrease in air temperature to 4 ° C will affect the activity of the worms. They will simply hibernate. In this case, you will have to forget about breeding worms in winter. If you want to do this throughout the year, then you should take care of heating and, of course, a large farm. After all, the number of individuals will increase. For example, on large farms where breeding is considered a business, their number can reach 100 thousand or more.
Special nursery boxes
Breeding the California worm as a business does not bring much trouble. The main thing is to create optimal conditions for its reproduction. It is best to keep worms in special nursery boxes. You can make them yourself. However, remember that everyone needs a box of a certain size. In such nurseries, the most comfortable conditions for invertebrates are created. Boxes can be made from plastic or wood.
Wooden nursery
To make it you will need boards. Their thickness should be 25 millimeters. If you are breeding earthworms, then it is better for you to make a nursery box that meets the following parameters: 100X20X50 centimeters. When the box is ready, turn it over and drill holes in the bottom. After this, place the box on the bars so that it stands at a slight angle. This is necessary so that the valuable liquid ("worm tea" - the waste product of these animals) drains away carefully. Cover all seams and corners with tin tape. This will prevent rodents from entering the nursery. Don't forget the roof. You can simply make it from boards. If they are not available, then you can use a sheet of plywood. Be sure to make holes in the roof. They are necessary for normal air circulation.
Plastic container
If you have achieved positive results, and breeding Californian worms as a business brings you income, then you can purchase special containers made of plastic. You should not buy such products if you are just starting out. Since such acquisitions are quite expensive. Agree, if you don’t like breeding dendrobene or ordinary earthworms, then such a purchase will simply be in vain for you, and you will throw your money away.
If you nevertheless purchased such nursery boxes, then first make holes in them. After all, such containers are completely airtight. Make holes in the roof and on the sides. In addition, there must be a hole to drain valuable liquid.
Old refrigerator
You can use an old refrigerator as a nursery. To do this, install it with the door facing up and remove all contents. You won't need it. Make holes in the walls of the refrigerator and on the door. Place it on the bars so that it is inclined. Don't forget to make a hole in the bottom to allow the liquid to drain.
Cardboard boxes
If you have just started this business, and earthworm breeding is something new to you, then you can use cardboard boxes as nurseries. Their dimensions should be approximately 40 by 30 centimeters or more. Cardboard is an environmentally friendly material that allows air to pass through well and is often used by worms as food. The only disadvantage of such a nursery is its short service life. If the box gets damp and starts to fall apart, you can put it in another one.
Let's discover the secrets of the worm business
Recently, many have been attracted to worm farming. As a business, this business is quite profitable if you approach it correctly. In order not to get burned, you should know some simple secrets. First of all, you need to take into account the characteristics of the worms’ natural habitat, what kind of soil they live in, and what they eat. Their “house” can be roughly divided into three floors. On the top, worms feed on organic remains of animals and plants. In the lower tier of habitat, the product of their vital activity accumulates, in other words - humus, as well as a liquid that many call “worm tea”. Between these “floors” your pets will feel most comfortable and will mostly stay there. It is important to fill the nursery correctly. Then the worms will multiply well and increase your profits.
How to properly fill a nursery
If we consider worm breeding as a business, then first of all you should carefully study all the nuances of such an activity. Many novice breeders make many mistakes, the first of which is incorrectly filling nurseries. How to do this correctly?
Fill the prepared container halfway with humus. If desired, you can mix it with shredded cardboard or pieces of newspaper. Be sure to moisten the finished mixture. However, do this with caution. If, when you squeeze the lump, no free moisture flows out of it, then you did everything right. You shouldn't introduce worms right away. The compost filler will release a substance such as ammonia for the first few days. When it has completely evaporated, you can begin populating the nursery.
Make a hole in the prepared filler and place part of the soil with worms in it. Carefully level this area, moisten it and cover it with a piece of cardboard. Do not disturb the residents for several days. They must adapt to their new habitat.
If the worms have spread throughout the nursery, this is the first sign that acclimatization was successful. After which you can add food. Remember, the place where worms breed should be calm and quiet. Therefore, install the nursery where there is no strong vibration or noise.
Soil moistening
The soil of the nursery needs to be moistened regularly. However, you shouldn't overdo it. Remember, they breathe through their skin. This explains why they crawl to the surface of the soil when it rains. They simply need it to saturate their body with oxygen. If the soil is too wet, your pets will simply die.
What and how to feed?
Business does not require special expenses. This also applies to their food. You need to create a compost pile. Manure, grass, leaves, tea leaves, coffee grounds, egg shells, vegetable and fruit peelings are perfect for these purposes. You should not throw into the compost heap waste products of cats and dogs, manure if the animals have undergone treatment for worms, peeling of onions, garlic, citrus peels, fats, oils, dairy products, meat and fish waste.
When the food is ready, lay it in a small layer - 10 centimeters thick. You need to feed the worms once every 7 days. To determine your pet's satiety level, you can use a piece of newspaper or regular toilet paper. Place it on top of the food and moisten it a little. If the worms have started eating this paper, then it’s time to feed them and add a new layer of compost.
How worms reproduce
Earthworms can begin producing offspring at 2-3 months of age. Over the course of 4 months they lay cocoons. They ripen within a few weeks. From one such cocoon no more than 20 individuals emerge, which after 2 months already begin to actively reproduce. The exception is the prospector worm, the breeding of which is a more complex process. If you do the math, in about six months the number of pets in one box will increase 50 times. Remember, if there are 50 adult individuals per liter of soil, then you urgently need to either sell them or plant them in new nurseries. Otherwise, their reproduction will stop naturally.
How to make a profit
Sort the worms every 5 months. To do this, carefully remove the top layer of soil and remove the soil where your pets live from the nursery. After this you can remove the humus layer. Send small worms back to the nursery, and adults - either for further expansion of your enterprise or for sale.
The product can be sold as fishing bait or in a pet store as food. This product is in demand by fish farms. You can sell not only invertebrates, but also worm tea and humus. The latest products are in demand among summer residents.
To collect worm tea, you made a special hole in the bottom of the nursery and a drain. This product is very valuable as an environmentally friendly and natural fertilizer. As you can see, there are a lot of opportunities to make money by breeding worms. The main thing is to know the right approach.
