home Accounting Chesucha - what is this fabric? Chesucha: description of the fabric, properties, advantages and disadvantages Chesucha is a special type of silk.

Chesucha - what is this fabric? Chesucha: description of the fabric, properties, advantages and disadvantages Chesucha is a special type of silk.

Recently, I shared my dislike for textured casentino wool, which has become a trend of recent years, and tried to rationalize this dislike. Casentino doesn't strike me as completely unacceptable material, but it's much more difficult than the "peacocks" think. However, this does not mean that the texture should be abandoned in principle. An example of much more "simple" but original and relevant material is silk shantung from which ties and accessories are made. On occasion, I will also talk about some of the technological features of making ties.

Shantung- plain weave silk, which is mistakenly called "aged" in some sources. But it is clear where this error comes from - the fabric has a characteristic uneven texture, giving the impression of numerous spools and puffs. Like most smooth silk, shantung is made in China (it takes its name from the province of Shandong where it originated) and was not originally used as a necktie. Women's clothing was mainly made from it - skirts and dresses, including wedding dresses, as well as upholstery for furniture and curtains. Sometimes shantung even went to summer men's suits. In Russian, a cute synonym is used for this material " scratchy”, which does not come from the expected “combed silk”, but from the Chinese word zuòsīchóu (literally “oak silk”).

Let me remind you of an important property of men's clothing - the degree of formality. Relatively speaking, the smoother and more uniform the item, the more formal it is. Business suits are made of smooth wool, informal suits are made of textured tweed or linen of uneven color. The same rule applies to accessories.

There are two extremes in the assortment of ties - a formal tie made of absolutely smooth silk and an informal tie made of knitted silk with a horizontal bottom. Shantung occupies a niche exactly in the middle - the bottom of a tie made of it has a classical shape, and the texture is noticeable and unusual, but not as striking as knitted (grenadine). At the same time, it can hardly be called completely casual, rather it is semi-formal.

Now I will make a small technical digression in the framework of the tie theme. The most expensive ties are made from silk. in seven folds(in this case, the consumption of expensive silk fabric is maximum), and expensive three-layer duplicated with a lining of the same silk(I mentioned them and showed them in). But there is another type - hand-rolled ties. They do not have any lining, this is done by analogy with pocket squares (you can read about the methods of tucking which in Russian on the Bespoke blog etc.), when the edge of the fabric is first wrapped in a neat roller, and then “tacked” with blind stitches. Thus, on the reverse side of the tie, you can see the wrong side of the fabric, and on the front - subtle hand stitches. This is how they like to do it in Italy and in England. But frankly formal ties are rarely tucked by hand - such an honor is usually awarded to products made of wool, silk-grenadine and the aforementioned shantung. Due to the texture, punctures are less noticeable on their front side, unlike fine silk.

Returning to shantung, such a tie will become a good accessory in the wardrobe, strict and bold at the same time. If you don't live by a strict dress code, you can wear it under a pullover, under an unpaired jacket, and even under a formal suit. Fortunately, manufacturers rarely experiment with caustic colors and avant-garde prints, limiting themselves to plain and striped ties.

Think about how to combine textures - an extreme but stylish option can be a full textured ensemble (tweed jacket, linen shirt, shantung tie). It is also appropriate, but in a completely different spirit, a suit made of fine smooth wool, a white poplin weave cotton shirt and the same tie will look. Although shantung is unusual, it is win-win in its own way: you can experiment outside the strict framework of texture compatibility, it is only important to choose the right color.

Shantung as a tie material has become popular quite recently (which is quite understandable with a wave of passion for vintage and "heritage"), and this proves that men's style, for all its conservatism, does not stand still. Although this material is not fundamentally new, I have a strong feeling that even when the wave of popularity subsides, shantung will firmly enter the classic wardrobe. It perfectly matches the era of softening the dress code, in which ties serve more as a marker not of a businessman, but of a stylish person.

Thank you for reading!

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The fabric with an interesting, obviously oriental name "chescha" is made from wild silk. It has a natural cream color with various shades.

Used for tailoring: women's and men's, dresses, children's outfits.

Chesucha - a special kind of silk

The fabric is obtained from the cocoons of oak silkworms.

Known to mankind for several millennia. They are mentioned in the Old Testament. And this is not the earliest source that talks about silk. In all descriptions, we are talking about a product obtained from a silkworm.

It turns out that there are moths from another family - the peacock-eye, whose caterpillars also weave a cocoon. They are called oak silkworms. They began to domesticate much later, only 250 years ago. Silkworm cocoon fabric was first created in China. They called her a scab. In Russian, an unfamiliar Chinese name was voiced in different ways: chesuncha, chinchuncha, etc. There are several similar synonyms. There are words that are completely different. Due to the fact that oak silkworm fabric was first obtained in the province of Shantung, sometimes the material is called shantung (shandung, shendong).

Description of the fabric

The chescha material belongs to wild silks. We believe that there are two reasons for this.

For a long time they did not know how to cultivate the oak silkworm at home. Until now, this process is problematic, economically not always justified. Most often, the oak silkworm is fed in the wild.
This group of fabrics includes fabrics woven from silk tows; cut threads; double threads from a cocoon obtained simultaneously from two silkworms; the first and remaining threads of the cocoon. High-quality silk is not made from this raw material. Therefore, probably, the fabric was called wild silk.

The process of preparing raw materials somewhat resembles similar stages in obtaining classical silk fabrics, but has its own characteristics.

The combed, partially unwound oak silkworm fibers are first sorted.
The mass is then loosened by ripping. This removes impurities.
The next mandatory stage is soaking, in which unnecessary chemical components are washed out.
The wet mass is dried.
During subsequent combing, oriented thin bundles are formed from randomly directed fibers.
Subsequent twisting makes it possible to obtain raw materials ready for the manufacture of fabric.
The final stage is the creation of fabric using the plain weave method.

The threads used have a non-uniform thickness, look rougher. Such varieties of silk are called tussor. The material with a characteristic textured pattern has a rough surface.

The silkworm feeds on foliage with a high content of tannins. That is why the threads, the fabric have natural cream or sand shades, which give the material a special naturalness.

Advantages and disadvantages of chesuchi

Classical wild silk has a yellow-brown color, but today there are various colors of it.

Natural raw materials, especially from such a peculiar wild source, are always diverse. Chesucha, obtained after passing the entire production cycle, acquires general positive properties:

density exceeding the characteristics of classic silks;
specific texture;
strength;
abrasion resistance;
thermal conductivity for comfort in hot weather;
hygroscopicity, the ability to absorb a significant amount of moisture (up to 30%);
hygiene;
hypoallergenicity;
solvent resistance, allowing you to confidently use stain removers.

The following are noticeable as disadvantages:

the need for careful care;
selective photosensitivity, some types of chesuchi deteriorate from prolonged sunlight;
wrinkling of fabric.

Flasks made from wild silk threads cost less than materials made from silkworm threads. However, the price of silk flakes cannot be small.

Modern methods have made it possible to obtain cheaper flax from a mixture of silk and; only from cotton; from a mixture of cotton and . This is how a cheaper material imitating silk fabric is obtained. Modern chescha can differ markedly in density, surface gloss, color.

What is sewn from chesuchi

Model dresses made of wild silk look very impressive.

Natural wild silk material has a wide range of uses. Modern types of chesuchi are even more diverse in application.

From chesuchi sew:

Chesucha is a universal material, the love for which our people have lasted for two centuries.

How to care for wool products

A fabric made from natural raw materials always requires a prudent attitude. It is useful to clarify the composition and recommendations for care when buying. In general, the following advice is justified for wild silk fabric:

it is better to give it for cleaning;
can be washed by hand in warm water (temperature not more than 30 ° C);
do not use harsh detergents;
can be rinsed in water acidified with vinegar;
do not squeeze in a centrifuge, do not twist with your hands;
let the water drain spontaneously;
dry completely, spreading out on the surface;
when drying, do not place the thing in the sun;
iron with an iron set to the "silk" mode.

Pleasant natural flaky fabric with unobtrusive natural dyeing creates a feeling of comfort, bliss. Hygienic material, non-allergenic, durable. Elegant products from wild silk will pleasantly surprise the price of supporters of silk fabrics.

China was the first country to produce shantung or otherwise chescha. The people call the matter wild silk, since the cocoons from which this silk is made are woven by oak silkworms. Oak silkworms are very difficult to breed at home, so raw materials are collected in the wild. The fabric is produced using the weaving method. Shantung has a golden sheen and a rough surface due to the threads. Threads have different lengths and heterogeneity. It has a creamy or sandy natural color, very rarely with an olive tint. A variety of applied images, embroideries and so on look very impressive on shantung. Chesucha is a more affordable fabric than classic silk. In our online store you can choose any material you like.

Qualities of silk shantung

Among the shortcomings, one can single out the fact that the fabric is very easily wrinkled, deteriorates in the sun, and without proper care, the fabric will easily deteriorate. Where Shantung is Used Shantung is used for making bedding and other home textiles. The fabric is great for clothing, in particular for tailoring: pants, suits, raincoats, dresses, blouses, shirts, skirts. Great for people who love nature. Fabric care It is recommended to wash shantung at a temperature not exceeding 30 degrees, with gentle means, rinse only in cold water, in no case wring it out and hang it out in the sun.

Our online store is engaged in the sale of fabrics at retail and wholesale. For all your questions, you can contact the manager by phone number.

The silk of oak silkworms has a number of positive aspects:

the fabric is hypoallergenic and pleasant to the body;
passes air;
dense and well draped;
has an excellent texture;
heat-conducting;
solvent resistance;

The taffeta is thin, keeps its shape, does not stretch, and is rather plastic. Dark purple print with small flowers. The main color is deep blue. The fabric shimmers a little. Suitable for dress, skirt, suit, jacket and so on.

Shantung silk has an uneven texture of linen weave, which gives the impression of wild silk with many "pellets" and "puffs". But in this there is highlight shantung attracting designers all over the world!

Pickup from the store

You can independently pick up the order from our store, which is a 6-7 minute walk from the Kaluzhskaya metro station. Attention! Pickup is by prior arrangement. Pickup is FREE.

Delivery in Moscow and the region

To the metro station without exit (without going to the surface) - 270 rubles.
To the metro station with an exit (meeting near the metro) - 320 rubles.
Delivery within the Moscow Ring Road - 400 rubles.
Delivery outside the Moscow Ring Road - 400 rubles. + 30 rub. for every 1 km.
Express delivery - cost from 700 rubles, calculated according to the tariffs of your chosen courier service or transport company (EMS, DHL, PONY EXPRESS, etc.)

In Russia

Russian Post - from 450 rubles. The manager will tell you the cost and terms of delivery to the final destination. The cost is calculated according to the tariffs on the Russian Post website (pochta.ru).

To other countries

Transport company - from 450 rubles, delivery by a transport company. The manager will tell you the cost and terms of delivery to the final destination. The cost is calculated according to the tariffs of the courier service or transport company you have chosen (EMS, DHL, PONY EXPRESS, CDEK, etc.)

We have provided several payment methods, from which you can choose the most convenient for you. When placing an order, you will be offered a choice of payment method, where you can choose the most suitable one.

Cash payment

Payment for the order in cash to the courier upon delivery within Moscow and the Moscow region or pickup from our store.

Payment to a Sberbank card

Through a branch, terminal or Sberbank-Online.

Transfer to a bank account

You can pay for the order in any bank convenient for you. After confirming the order, we will send you a receipt for payment. For the money transfer service, the bank may charge you a commission from 1% to 7% of the order value, depending on the region and the name of the bank. Transferring money can take from 1 to 3 days.

Cashless payments

Only for legal entities. After confirming the order, we will issue you an invoice for payment. Transferring money can take from 1 to 3 days.

Payment via money transfer system

Payment for the order through money transfer systems such as: Western Union, Zolotaya Korona, Blitz, Uniastrum, etc.

Additional payment terms

Buyers from regions, CIS countries and abroad. We work on 100% prepayment and give a full guarantee of sending the goods you have chosen. Sending is carried out within 1-2 business days from the date of payment confirmation.

Dear customers, please carefully consider the purchase of fabrics, check all the details!
We are always ready to help you and describe the product you have chosen in more detail!

Reading time: 6 minutes

The fabric market is diverse and multifaceted. Some names are known to everyone, while others are known only to a narrow circle of people or those who have come across them. Wild silk has been known for many centuries, but the name "chescha" is not familiar to everyone.

Chesucha is a strange word, behind which lies a fairly dense silk fabric with a special texture. The latter is obtained due to the uneven thickness of the threads. This word comes from China, so in Russia it has many varieties, which are determined by the peculiarities of pronunciation:

Chesuncha;
Chechuncha;
Chisuncha;
Chusucha;
Taffeta Shantung.

The last name comes from the Chinese province, where for the first time fibers were used that did not fit the standards of an ideal silk fabric. Currently, this canvas is also made from cotton fibers.

If we talk about the original raw materials - the "threads" of the silkworm, then the "waste" could get double, as well as fibers from the inside and outside of the cocoon. The canvas of them turned out to be heterogeneous, which created a special texture of the surface of the fabric.

In our country, you can often hear the name of this fabric exactly as chescha. The mention of it can be found in the works relating to the 18-19th century. They talk about creating clothes from this material (jackets, suits, shirts, layered skirts).

Modern chescha is made from the fibers of the wild oak-leaved silkworm. It is usually left in its natural color - yellowish or sandy. Sometimes the color of chesuchi is described as honey or beige with a golden tint. It depends, first of all, on the food of the insect. Since this silkworm eats the foliage of the plant, which is known to be rich in tannins (tannins), this is what creates the color of the thread.

Chesucha is made in two ways:

Unwinding the cocoon of a wild silkworm;
Combing fibers from the cocoon (it turns out a fabric similar to wool).

Wild silkworm produces uneven threads, so there is no special way to work out. The fibers remain in their original form with all their bumps and knots. The following steps are used for fiber production:

Sorting. All cocoons are viewed, while defective ones are separated;
Disheveling. At this stage, the mass is loosened, which also helps to remove some impurities and excess elements;
Soaking. This step removes the sericin. It is a potential allergen and it is not recommended to leave it in the composition;
Drying;
Carding. This stage is necessary for the chaotic mass to turn into oriented fibers. There are several types of tow, which are used depending on the desired characteristics;
Torsion. Here a fiber is formed so that later it can be obtained from it into a fabric;
Weaving. Creation of fabric with certain properties and characteristics.

The flake most often remains in a natural shade, so the staining step and all the actions associated with it are omitted.

Characteristic

Chesucha is a dense fabric. flaky the material has a plain weave. Thickening and uneven surfaces are the main features by which this fabric can be distinguished from similar options. Its standard width ranges from 74 to 91 cm. It is not only attractive in appearance, but also very dense. But this does not prevent her from being pleasant to the body and having a wide range of applications.

Advantages:

Dense;
Has an interesting texture;
Inexpensive compared to "standard" silk;
Durable and wear-resistant;
Wide scope;
Clothing made from this material creates a comfortable temperature at any time of the year;
Pleasant matte sheen;
Hygroscopicity;
hygiene;
High degree of absorbency;
Does not cause irritation and allergies;
Drapes well;
Tensile strength;
Does not become wet, even if it absorbs 30% moisture in relation to its own weight;
Does not lose shine over time;
High degree of resistance to organic solvents. Only highly concentrated solutions of alkalis and acids can negatively affect it.

Disadvantages:

Requires delicate care;
There may be stains and stains from water;
With constant contact with sweat, the fabric can become brittle and lose its original characteristics;
Depending on the production, medium or high degree of crushing;
Low lightfastness. From constant exposure to direct sunlight, the fabric loses its strength (only 200 hours of open sun is enough to reduce performance by 2 times)

One more “neutral” quality needs to be added. Wild silk has an average degree of heat resistance. It tolerates short-term exposure to high temperatures, but from frequent abuse of this material becomes very brittle.

Application area

This material can be used both for sewing curtains (base or lining) and for the production of clothing.

Very often this fabric can be found as a basis for sewing curtains. Now designers are developing models that are built from many layers and just need a solid “support”. Wild silk has all the characteristics for this. It is dense, durable, which makes it an indispensable "frame". However, depending on the output, you can also get a lightweight version, which is used for sewing light curtains.

If we talk about women's and men's clothing, then there are a great many categories where chescha is applicable:

Wild silk can also be used to make bed linen, tablecloths and decorative pillowcases.

This material is universal. It is great for clothes designed for any season, as it creates a microclimate that is favorable for a person. The amino acids that make up its composition have a good effect on the skin and joints of a person.

Product Care

Care for wild silk is the same as for cultivated silk. He is also quite capricious:

Hand wash at 30 degrees is allowed, but dry cleaning is still recommended;
When washing, it is recommended to use special products with a mild composition;
It is necessary to rinse the products in water at room temperature. At the same time, you can add a little vinegar there. This will not spoil the fabric itself, since it is not affected by organic substances, but it will refresh the color;
It is impossible to twist and wring out products in a centrifuge. After washing, it is recommended to simply let the water drain freely;
For drying, it is better to wrap the product in a terry towel. It will absorb excess moisture. After that, it is recommended that the item be laid out on a flat horizontal surface for further drying;
Chesucha, unlike classic silk, is recommended to be ironed after complete drying, and not when the thing is still slightly damp;
It is recommended to iron at a temperature not exceeding 110 degrees (“silk” mode) from the wrong side or using an additional fabric;
It is not recommended to dry wild silk under the open rays of the sun.

Raw silk or wild silk is a great alternative to the classic version. It is distinguished by an interesting heterogeneous texture, and the price for it is much lower. It does not cause allergies, there are also options with different densities. Wild silk will be appreciated by lovers of everything natural, as it has not only a natural composition, but also most often remains in its original pleasant golden hue!