Photography modes and their applications. What to do with a DSLR camera? Shooting modes

Many amateur photographers buy Nikon or Canon SLR cameras, but do not quite understand how to use it. Any SLR camera, whether an amateur model or a professional one, has various shooting modes, and I propose to consider them.

Everyone has probably seen such basic modes like M, A and S. Now we will briefly consider the purpose of these modes, and also find out when it is better to use them.
Before describing the modes, you need to get a little familiar with the mat. part the world, the longer the period of time you need to open the curtains, and vice versa, in daylight or sunlight, the curtains should open for a minimum period of time. In cameras it is designated as a fractional number: 1/60, 1/400, etc. Let me explain so that there is a connection with reality. 1/60 means 60th of a second, and 1/8000 means 8000th of a second (very fast shutter speed), etc. A larger divider means a shorter shutter speed, and vice versa, a smaller divider means a longer shutter speed. This value of 1″ means that the shutter speed is 1 second.

Aperture (f). A device for changing the relative opening in the lens through which light passes and hits the sensor. The size of this hole can be adjusted through the camera, in the settings it is usually indicated by a value with the letter f, for example f3.5 or f5.6. The smaller the aperture value, the more light enters through the lens. For example f2.8 lets in more light than f4.5. The aperture value directly affects the depth of field (depth of field).

ISO. Indicator of the photosensitivity of the matrix. The higher the ISO value, the less light the camera needs to take a bright photo, but the photo may still be blurred, especially at ISO values ​​greater than 1000.

S mode in DSLR cameras

This S mode allows the photographer to manually set the camera's shutter speed. The camera can set the aperture and ISO values ​​automatically. If you wish, you can disable auto ISO and control this value manually.

This is the mode I use the least often. It makes sense to use for artistic photographs at long exposures. Here are some examples.

In addition to creating such artistic shots, S mode can be used in situations where you need to take a photo at very short aperture values ​​to “freeze” the subject. There are such photographs in my collection.

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M mode in DSLR cameras

A mode in which the photographer can adjust either all values: aperture, shutter speed and ISO, or can allow the camera to adjust ISO using auto ISO. A rather complex and inconvenient mode for everyday shots, as well as in cases where you need to shoot quickly. I use this mode when shooting with flash.

When shooting with flash in auto mode, the camera offers a shutter speed of 1/60, and this shutter speed cannot provide photographs without movement, so in M ​​mode I set the shutter speed to whatever I want, 1/200 for example. Also, in such situations it is often necessary to close the aperture and adjust the ISO, so this mode is very useful in this case. Mode M is also necessary when shooting in the studio, where you also need to adjust the shutter speed and aperture values ​​yourself.

A mode in DSLR cameras

A mode in which the photographer manually sets the aperture value and can choose whether or not to use auto ISO. In mode A, the camera will automatically select the desired shutter speed and ISO value (if auto ISO is set). Using inexpensive technology, most photographs are taken at a fully open aperture; in kit lenses this value is f3.5 or f4.0; in fast or more expensive lenses the aperture can be f2.8, f2.0 and even f1.4. The f1 value means that ambient light enters the matrix without restriction.

For me, this is the most convenient mode for daily shooting. Allows you to quickly adjust the depth of field by changing the aperture value. By increasing the ISO, it is also easy to control the shutter speed at those values ​​that provide sharp pictures.

Portraits are usually shot with an open aperture of f3.5 or f4.0 (values ​​for inexpensive kit lenses), but if you need to photograph a landscape, or you just need the entire frame to be as sharp as possible, then the aperture needs to be closed at least f8.0.

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P.S.

You should not use inconvenient manual modes all the time, just to say that you are shooting on manual settings. Your task is to make the maximum amount beautiful shots taking pictures at the right moments, and if at this time you adjust something in the camera and not shoot, then, alas, it will be very sad.

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Modern cameras have many shooting modes. All of them are divided into two types: story modes such as Portrait, Landscape, Sports and creative modes, such as: Shutter priority, Aperture priority and Manual mode.

It is the creative modes in DSLR cameras that make the shooting process so convenient and controllable. These modes are used by professionals and amateurs alike, leaving the story modes for beginners.

A novice photographer may think that shooting in creative modes is something difficult, inaccessible to mere mortals, but this is not at all the case. Once you get the hang of these modes, using them is no more difficult than shooting in full auto mode.

No matter what mode you shoot in, the (brightness) of the photo is determined by three parameters: , and .

When shooting in automatic mode, the camera independently sets these parameters to obtain a standard exposure. At the same time, the camera measures the illumination of the scene, in other words, it “knows” how much light is falling, and, based on this knowledge, sets the required ISO, aperture and shutter speed values ​​(read more about this in the article). All you have to do is point the camera at the subject and press the shutter button.

Just? But the simplicity comes at the cost of a lack of control over the shooting. We can only guess what shutter speed, ISO and aperture values ​​the camera will select. The only thing we know is that the frame will have normal exposure.

At the same time, for artistic photography it is important to control the depth of field of the image, which is determined by the aperture, motion blur, which is determined by shutter speed, and the level of noise, which depends on the sensitivity of the matrix.

Creative modes: and Shutter priority combine control over parameters that are important to us and ease of shooting in automatic mode. Let's look at the process of shooting in these modes in order.

Depending on the camera brand, this mode may be designated as Av(Canon) or A(Nikon), perhaps in other cameras this mode will be designated differently, but the logic of operation will be the same everywhere.

In Aperture Priority mode, we set the aperture value, and the camera independently selects the shutter speed value to obtain a standard exposure. Thus, shooting is not much more difficult than in automatic mode, but at the same time we get full control over the depth of field. This allows us to control the blur (or sharpening) of the background and foreground, those areas that are closer or further from the focusing distance.

I use this mode most often because it is best suited for shooting both portraits and landscapes and generally any scenes where control over depth of field is important.

Let's look at an example of shooting a portrait outdoors in natural light. When shooting a portrait, I want to focus on the model, her eyes and emotions. To do this, I will use a shallow depth of field, thereby blurring everything that is not in focus (primarily the background).

I set the mode. Since the shooting will take place outdoors, where there is a lot of light, I I set the minimum ISO– 100, which will provide me with a minimum of noise and pure colors. Then I install open aperture 2-2.8. I shoot with fast portrait lenses such as the 85mm 1.8, which allows me to shoot at very large (open) apertures, greatly blurring the background. All this can be done while preparing for shooting.

When the shoot begins and the model takes her place, I point the camera at her and press the shutter button halfway. At this point, the camera will measure the light and set the shutter speed necessary to obtain a standard exposure. The shutter speed value will be displayed in the viewfinder. Since I set the sensitivity and aperture myself, shutter speed is the only parameter the camera sets to obtain a standard exposure.

At this point, I need to make sure that the shutter speed is not too high for handheld shooting, otherwise the frame may become blurry. For an 85mm lens, shutter speeds shorter than 1/100 of a second are acceptable for handheld shooting. If I see that value in the viewfinder, I shoot with those settings. If the camera sets the shutter speed longer, for example 1/30, I will raise the sensitivity so that the shutter speed becomes shorter.

Filming in Aperture priority I set my own aperture and ISO, but make sure that shutter speeds are fast enough to ensure sharp images. If I place the model in the shade, or it's a cloudy day or evening, I may need to raise the ISO. If I raise the ISO by half, the camera (to compensate for the change in exposure) will also reduce the shutter speed by half.

For example, the camera produces a shutter speed of 1/30, but I want it to be shorter than 1/100. To do this, I need to increase the ISO from 100 to 400. This will reduce the shutter speed to 1/120.

This is how I shoot most of my portraits.

When I shoot a landscape, I need to get both the foreground and background clear, in this case I also use the mode, but now I close the aperture to 11-16, getting a greater depth of field. However, the shutter speed may be too long for handheld photography, so landscapes are usually shot on a tripod. But, as in the first example, I set the aperture and sensitivity myself, and the camera selects the shutter speed to get a standard exposure.

With a little practice, you will become comfortable with the mode. In practice, it is not much more difficult than shooting in automatic mode. The camera will still select the exposure based on the light metering of the scene. You will have complete control over the depth of field. For example, in this shot, I wanted to clearly convey the entire depth of the scene, for which I simply closed the aperture to f 5.6.

But do not forget to monitor the long shutter speed so as not to get blurred when shooting handheld, the so-called “shake”.

Shutter priority

The mode is designated as TV or S. In its principle it is similar to the previous mode, but here everything is the other way around.

In Shutter Priority mode, we set the shutter speed, and the camera automatically selects the aperture to obtain a standard exposure.

This mode combines the convenience of auto-exposure and fixed shutter speed.

For example, when photographing sports events, fast shutter speeds of 1/500 - 1/1000 seconds are required to freeze movement. The best mode for this is Shutter priority. We select this mode, set the shutter speed to 1/500 of a second and the minimum ISO to 100. Then, pointing the camera at the scene, press the shutter button halfway. The aperture value set by the camera will appear in the viewfinder.

Since the aperture value is limited by the lens, it may not be sufficient to obtain the desired exposure. In this case, the aperture value will blink in the viewfinder, telling us that the camera is unable to obtain the correct exposure. In this situation, we need to raise the ISO until the aperture value stops blinking.

Shutter speed allows us to control motion blur. At short shutter speeds, fast moving objects are “frozen”, but at long shutter speeds, on the contrary, they become blurred or become completely invisible. For example, raindrops start to stop at 1/1000 of a second, and rushing water in a river smoothes out at 15 seconds.

There is an interesting technique called "". It involves taking a shot by following a moving subject with the camera. In this case, you need to choose the shutter speed so that the subject is sharp enough, and the background is blurred, emphasizing the rapid movement in the frame.

This shot was taken at 1/125 second. A similar technique can be performed in the mode Shutter priority, and in Manual mode.

Manual mode on all cameras is indicated by the letter M.

In this mode, we independently set all the parameters: , and . But this is not as difficult as it seems, because in this case we rely on the readings of measuring the illumination of the frame!

• What are A (Av), S (Tv) and M modes, definition of each;
• In what situations should you choose each of them and why;
• Some advantages of (Av) and S (Tv) modes compared to manual tuning;
• Some advantages of manual configuration and examples of situations when this is the only possible option.

Manual shooting modes, what are they?

Manual Mode (M): This mode gives you full control over the three camera settings that determine exposure (known as the exposure triangle)—ISO sensitivity, aperture, and shutter speed. In the guide we will focus on each of the parameters.

Aperture priority (A on Nikon, Av on Canon): This mode gives you control over two settings, namely ISO and aperture. The camera will automatically determine the appropriate shutter speed to provide you with the correct exposure.

Shutter priority (S on Nikon, Tv on Canon): This mode also gives you control over two exposure settings, but this time it's ISO and shutter speed. The camera will automatically determine the appropriate aperture value for your settings.

There are other factors that affect the result, namely the metering that is used and exposure compensation. We will dwell on this a little later.

How do you decide which mode to use?

I use aperture priority and shutter priority mode more than any other. When deciding which one to choose, you should consider what you're shooting in, what conditions you're shooting at. external conditions and what effect do you want to achieve:

• Choose aperture priority mode when you want to control depth of field (DOF). So, for example, if you are creating a portrait with beautiful bokeh, then set the aperture to f2.8 or f1.8. You should choose aperture priority mode not only when creating a nice blurred background, but also in cases where, on the contrary, you want to take a sharp photo by choosing an aperture value of f11 or smaller.
• You should give preference to shutter priority mode when it is important for you to control the movement of the subject, that is, either make the subject very clear while moving, or, on the contrary, qualitatively blur it. So, taking pictures sporting events, concerts or wildlife When clarity is important, the shutter speed should be set to at least 1/500. When photographing the movement of water or a car at night, the shutter speed interval must be chosen significantly longer, at least 2-5 seconds.
• There are several cases when the best option There will be shooting in manual mode. So, if you are taking a night portrait or landscape, working in a studio, or taking an HDR photo using a tripod, also in some cases when using a flash (for example, when working in a dark room, you still want to preserve a little natural light) .

Here are some sample images taken using each of the modes described above.

Photo taken in aperture priority mode

Photo taken in shutter priority mode

Photo taken in manual mode at night

Things you shouldn't forget

ISO: Remember that when you select any mode, you are still setting the ISO sensitivity yourself.

You need to choose sensitivity based on the lighting you're shooting under. For example, when shooting in bright sunlight, it is better to set the value to 100 ISO or 200 ISO. If it is a cloudy day, or you are shooting in the shade, then it is better to set the value to 400 ISO. To shoot indoors with poor lighting, you need to set the value above 800 ISO, depending on the circumstances. Values ​​above ISO 3200 are set to special cases, for example, if you are shooting a moving subject without using a tripod and the lighting level is low. Using a tripod allows you to set lower ISO values, since the risk of taking a blurry shot is reduced to almost zero.

Check the shutter speed in aperture priority mode.

Just because the camera determines the shutter speed on its own doesn't mean you'll be able to high quality photo, so it’s better to double-check what speed your camera has set. Yes, generally there are no problems, but if you set up the camera and set the sensitivity to 100 ISO, with an aperture of f16 in a dark room, then you will be shooting with a fairly slow shutter speed, and if a tripod is not used, the frame will most likely come out blurry. Therefore, make sure that the shutter speed is set correctly, for this you can use the following rule - 1/focal length = shutter speed. That is, if you are shooting at a distance of 200 meters, then the shutter speed should be 1/200. Knowing this rule, you can adjust your ISO and aperture settings so that the shutter speed is automatically set to the value that works best.

Photo taken in manual mode with HDR

Watch for notifications warning you about incorrect exposure in S and A modes.

Your camera is pretty smart, but it can only work within its own limitations. Therefore, you may sometimes receive messages indicating that you are outside the parameters when it is possible to set the correct values automatic settings. This message will appear as a flashing warning in the viewfinder. Here are examples of such cases, both in shutter priority and aperture priority modes.

Scenario #1. Aperture priority mode. Let's say you decide to set your ISO to 800 and F1.8 on a bright sunny day, and the camera will tell you that the scene is too bright. The camera cannot set the appropriate shutter speed (fastest). If you do take a photo, make sure that it is overexposed, which is what the camera warned you about. Choose more low value ISO or set a smaller aperture and try again until the warning goes away.

Scenario #2. Shutter priority mode. Let's say you are shooting in a dark room with ISO 400 and 1/1000 sec settings, in this case the camera will not be able to set the correct aperture value, you will be notified about this through a message in the viewfinder. To resolve this issue, you will need to select a slow shutter speed and probably a higher ISO sensitivity so that the warning disappears.

Image created in manual mode during night photography

Professionals and just amateur photographers probably know something more about the camera and its functions, in addition to how to turn it on and press the shutter button. Although even such primitive things must be done correctly. For example, you need to release the shutter button smoothly, while completely holding your breath, and not hit it with your finger like a jackhammer. But we will not consider in detail such things as how to properly handle the camera, but will talk more specifically about advanced shooting techniques. The main shooting modes are as follows: ( P, TV, Av, M).

1.R- shooting in creative mode ( Program). This photography mode allows you to expand your creative possibilities by manually setting the exposure (What is exposure in photography). The camera in P mode affects parameters such as aperture and shutter speed automatically. At automatic shooting,To avoid getting bad shots, many functions, such as flash, auto-focus, are set by the camera. In P mode, the user can set any settings independently; you just need to turn the wheel in one direction or another and the shutter speed will change relative to the aperture. You can set the image style: portrait, landscape, monochrome, precise, standard, custom. The styles available depend on what camera you have. You can also adjust parameters such as white balance, sensitivity ISO, auto-focus, frame transfer, exposure, built-in flash, etc.

2.TV— shooting dynamic scenes. This mode prioritizes shutter speed (Camera shutter speed) with auto-exposure. With its help, you can get clear or blurry pictures of dynamic scenes, which is especially important when taking photographs of sports matches. Here, depending on what effect you want to get, you need to set the required shutter speed yourself. It is adjusted by turning the dial left or right. To get a clear image of a dynamic scene, you need to reduce the shutter speed, for example, set its value (1/2000 s); if you want to get a blurry effect, then you need to turn the dial in the opposite direction and increase the shutter speed, an example of a long shutter speed (1/30 s.) . To capture a moving subject clearly, always use only fast shutter speeds, ranging from (1/2000 sec.) to (1/500 sec.). To create a blurry effect and create the feeling of fast movement, it is recommended to use shutter speeds between (1/250 sec.) and (1/30 sec.). If you want the photo to have the effect of a blurry river or waterfall, then you can use a long shutter speed (1/15 sec.).

3.Av— a program mode in which the depth of field (Depth of field) changes. If you want to get a blurred background or, conversely, create clear images of near and distant objects, then you need to use the Av mode. Aperture priority with auto-exposure is highlighted here. To achieve a sharp foreground and background in a photograph, you need to use the dial to set the maximum great importance aperture such as f/32 and you will get greater depth of field. If, on the contrary, you want to highlight an object against a blurred background, then you need to set a small aperture value, say f/5.6. The larger the aperture number, the smaller the diameter of its opening. In other words, Av mode is responsible for DOF, and photographs.

When taking pictures in this mode, while setting the aperture value (Lens Aperture) to a high value, be aware that camera shake may occur in poor lighting conditions. At high aperture values, long shutter speeds are used. In poor lighting, the shutter speed can be 30 seconds. In this case, you need to increase the light sensitivity, hold the camera firmly, or use a tripod.

4.M — manual mode. Here you can manually set both the required shutter speed and aperture as you wish. When shooting with flash, the exposure changes in accordance with the selected manual camera settings. The flash sync speed can be set between (1/200 sec.) and (1/30 sec.) and can also be selected manually. In order to take a photo, you need to set the shutter speed, aperture and exposure yourself. For long exposures, it is better to use a tripod and a remote switch. Using this mode requires the photographer to have some experience, so if you do not have it, then you should improve yourself in this regard, the main thing is not to stop taking photographs.

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