home Credit Purple sky with stars. How to photograph the starry sky - my experience

Purple sky with stars. How to photograph the starry sky - my experience

Astronomy Day in 2015, it fell on April 25 (more precisely, on the night of April 25 to 26). By this day, astronomers are trying to coincide with various exhibitions, and also share their photographs of the starry sky. This is exactly what Culturology.RF will do today - your attention is provided with beautiful pictures of the night sky, full of shining stars, from which it simply takes your breath away.

Astronomy Day began to be celebrated in the United States in 1973, bringing together disparate events that had previously been timed to coincide with eclipses, the appearance of comets and other similar phenomena. This day is not a fixed date, it changes every year, but in any case, the day of astronomy is held from Saturday to Sunday during the period from April to May, when the Moon enters the phase of the first quarter.

Recently, there has been more and more discussion of light pollution problem environment. If for an ordinary inhabitant this does not present a particular problem, then for astronomers every year it becomes more and more difficult to work in such conditions. On the this moment from observatories located within the boundaries of large cities (for example, at universities or research centers) only the brightest stars can be seen, the rest become "invisible" no matter how good the telescope is.

It is precisely because of light pollution (street lighting, disco spotlights, light on industrial complexes) to create truly nice shot the starry sky is advised to leave as far as possible from the cities. Of course, you need to take into account that you will need a tripod and, at a minimum, learn how to use the shutter speed on the camera in advance. Depending on the desired result exposure can be set from 30 seconds to an hour. Of course, the first time you have to tinker and adjust to the settings before you get a decent result, but when you get it - it's akin to magic: stars appear in the picture that are not visible to the naked eye. As in the magical pictures in our review.

At present, the art of photography is so vast and so multifaceted that there are a huge number of different competitions and awards that evaluate the talent of authors in different areas of photography. There are competitions for portrait photography, wildlife photography, landscapes, animalistics, cityscapes, reports and much, much more. Here you can see a collection of photos related to starry sky photography or astronomical photography. At the same time, what you will see next is not just beautiful selection, and the best photos of 2014 that participate in the competition from the Greenwich Observatory in collaboration with the BBC. Initially, more than 2,500 photographs were sent to the jury, from which the best of the best were selected. The photographs of the starry sky are very diverse, there are both photographs of ordinary photographers and photographs taken with the help of the most powerful telescopes on earth.

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Double star in the constellation Ophiuchus

Starry sky in an Icelandic cave

Moon and Jupiter

Grand Teton National Park in the USA

Father and Son Watching Comet C/2011 L4 (PANSTARRS)

Polar lights in Norway

Aurora Borealis over the Atlantic Ocean through an airplane window

Northern lights in Norway

However, this is the peculiarity of the starry sky:
everyone who looks at him has a sweet heart ache.
B. Akunin (Jade beads)

The sky is so majestic and always attracts the eyes of people. Boundless, distant, unknown and therefore even more alluring. It can be different - bright, affectionate, cheerful, sinister, cloudy, gloomy. But it never ceases to interest people. They like to admire photos with blue blue, download with clouds, take photos with gray gloomy clouds.

But most of all mysteries for a person are fraught with the night sky. It has been admired and fascinated since ancient times. People can look at the endless starry space for hours, because there is something magical, unknown, some secret is hidden in it.

Unfortunately, in the city, due to high-rise buildings and dense vegetation, it is not always possible to admire the heavenly beauty, and there is simply no time to go somewhere. But this is not a reason to get upset and give up. Ready-made photographs of the sky at night are a great way out.

The photos collected on the site are so bright and realistic that you can easily do without studying the night masterpieces on your own. They will become worthy replacement for those who do not have the opportunity to live to know the mysteries of the fantastic evening sky. These photos will certainly not leave anyone indifferent.

Each picture or photo is a peculiar, fascinating story, which is very difficult to break away from, and one wants to penetrate into its depths. Therefore, you can sit comfortably near the computer screen, and watch, study, explore these incredible beautiful pictures night sky events. You will be surprised how exciting this process is, fraught with a lot of positive emotions.

Photos depicting the night sky are associated primarily with stars. These are millions and billions of bright lights glowing in the dark abyss. Small and large, distant and close - they have formed into constellations that people are trying to consider and guess.

One look at these pictures and photographs is breathtaking, it becomes joyful and somehow warm. In front of you, as in the palm of your hand, such greatness and beauty!

The face breaks into a smile when you recognize the familiar outlines of the Big Dipper, find the Milky Way, notice the shooting star. After all, even this can be caught in a photograph if it is made with high quality, with a soul. Such magical pictures of the sky with stars must be in everyone's collection. They can be used as a desktop theme, screen saver, or just a subject for relaxation, raising your spirits.

Try to sit down, switch off for five minutes from everything and just admire the incredible photos. You will feel rested, joyful and ready to create.

What else can impress night photos of the endless sky besides enjoying the stars? Of course, the mysterious appearance of the moon. Pictures and photos with her, a truly breathtaking sight. She simply attracts the eyes and beckons with her magnificence. After all, for millions of years people have been trying to conquer the moon and find out if life exists on it.

Photos with a thin month are associated with the birth of something new, excite emotions, make feelings wake up. And the photos of the full moon are simply beyond description. They are so amazing that it is impossible to find the right words for them. Admiring the unique beauty of the full moon in the photo, you involuntarily relax, recharge with energy from it and understand how wonderful this world is!

Photos of stars, sky spaces, moon photos at night are especially interesting to look at before going to bed. It is best if it is completely dark. Then the photos will reveal their charm and amazing beauty at 100%. This means that they will delight and delight in the soul.

And most importantly, any photo you like can be easily and absolutely free to download and save in your collection of favorite pictures.

AT Last year periodically you could see photos of stars in my articles. Some asked me questions, they say, what aperture, what shutter speed, and so on. Therefore, I have already published the photos themselves in a separate post with their parameters, but here I want to post detailed description how to photograph the starry sky. I have long wanted to write a similar article, but there was very little experience. After reading this manual, you will at least be able to take the same photos as mine.

I immediately warn you that I am not a pro in this matter, and you will not discover something radically new for yourself, especially if you yourself are engaged in similar shootings. However, it will be useful for beginners to learn some of the nuances that I did not know at one time.

I have written a number of photography-related articles for hobbyists like me. Here is a list of them, you can take a look.

What you need to shoot the starry sky

First of all, a tripod. Excerpts are long and without a tripod anywhere. It is important that it can withstand the weight of the camera along with the lens and does not stagger, but it is not too heavy, otherwise you will not want to take it on a trip, well, if you are not by car of course.
A camera with manual settings and preferably shooting in Raw, because this format gives great opportunities photo processing. It would also be nice if the ISO could be set to 800-1600 without much damage to the picture.
wide angle fast lens for shooting static stars and a large coverage of the area of the starry sky.
Remote control for setting long exposures, in the common people - a cable.
Spare battery, as it is consumed quickly enough.

My starry sky kit

In general, I already wrote about my set of photographic equipment with my wife in the article. But there was the whole list, namely the pictures of the night sky at the moment I'm doing:

Canon 7d camera
Tokina 11-16 F2.8 wide-angle and fast lens
Programmable Remote
Tripod Slik Sprint Pro II 3W CG

I think you can take pictures of the starry sky with a soap dish if it allows you to do some things, such as: set a shutter speed of 30 seconds or connect a remote control to it, screw on a tripod, set a higher ISO without brutal noises, open wider aperture. Otherwise, you will be severely limited in opportunities, and it is unlikely that anything will work out.

My typical mistakes

I recently started trying to shoot the starry sky. But my first photos did not turn out at all, since I was sure that just a long exposure of 30 seconds would be enough. As a rule, all DSLRs make it possible to shoot without a remote control with a shutter speed of 30 seconds.

So, for such shutter speeds, you can’t clamp the aperture, although you want to make everything sharp. In this case, the light from the stars is not enough at all so that they can normally appear in the sky. On the contrary, you need to open it to the maximum! In my lens it is F2.8, some people buy lenses even faster. But not only the aperture needs to be opened, it is also desirable to set the ISO to at least 800-1600.

Options for shooting the starry sky

1. Shooting static stars. Exposure 10-40 sec. They look like dots, that is, the way we see them with the normal eye.

2. Shooting the rotation of the starry sky (stars in the form of stripes) or otherwise, tracks. Long exposure from several minutes to several hours. Absolutely unrealistic photos, but they look funny.

3. Shooting tracks, but in a different way. A large number of photographs of the same area of the sky are taken using the technology of shooting static stars with an interval of 1 second, and then they are glued together in a special program into one photograph. Visually, it is similar to option 2, but more colorful and with less noise. When shooting tracks according to option 3, we get both a glued final photo and the ability to rivet a timelapse video.

4. Timelapse. More photos of static stars are taken and then mixed into video. It turns out very beautiful videos of how the stars move across the sky.

How to photograph the starry sky - static stars

Static stars. ISO1600, 11mm, f2.8, 30sec

Excerpt

Well, let's move on to the photos and shooting directly. As you already understood, due to the fact that the stars are moving, they remain in the form of fixed points only up to a certain shutter speed. And if she has greater value, then they turn into stripes. And in order to calculate that very critical shutter speed, there is a “600” rule.

We need to divide 600 by the focal length of your lens and we will get the maximum shutter speed at which the stars will still be dots. This formula is valid for full frame cameras, crop factor 1:

15 mm - 40 sec
24 mm - 25 sec
35 mm - 17 sec
50 mm - 12 sec
85 mm - 7 sec
135 mm - 4 sec
200 mm - 3 sec
300 mm - 2 sec
600 mm - 1 sec

Most often, everyone, including me, does not use full-frame cameras. So, we need an amendment - we also divide 600 by your crop factor. For Canon cameras this is 1.6:

10 mm - 38 sec
11 mm - 34 sec
12 mm - 32 sec
15 mm - 25 sec
16 mm - 24 sec
17 mm -22 sec
24 mm - 15 sec
35 mm - 10 sec
50 mm - 8 sec

Obviously, a full-frame sensor and wide-angle lenses have a longer exposure margin. That is, when shooting with a 50 mm lens on a cropped matrix, you have only 8 seconds, and this is very, very little, the stars will not be visible. In addition, such a lens may not have enough viewing angle.

According to my observations, the shutter speed can still be increased by a factor of one and a half. Yes, when zooming on a computer, the stars will already be dashes, but in small photographs (for a blog, for a 10x15 printout), this may not be very visible.

Diaphragm

The aperture is best opened as wide as possible. If the lens allows you to open at 1.6-1.8, then it will be possible not to increase the shutter speed above the critical one and not set the ISO above 800. The sharpness drops, but what can you do.

Manual focus

At night, you can forget about auto focus, so you only have to use manual focus. Usually it is advised to set it to the extreme position at infinity, because we shoot the stars. But I am faced with the fact that my lenses almost never twist the focus to infinity in automatic mode. I checked it by focusing on the moon, on distant lights (by the way, these are options for autofocusing at night). It remained quite a bit to the extreme position, and I used it in the future.

Focal length

Once again, the longer the focal length, the shorter the shutter speed should be, because the stars are getting closer, which means that in order to prevent tracks, you need to reduce the shooting time. In addition, you may not have enough viewing angle, you will not just shoot one sky without everything. And the density of stars decreases as you get closer.

How to photograph the starry sky - the rotation of the sky, tracks

The rotation of the sky. ISO400, 11mm, f5, 1793sec

I shot tracks so far quite a bit and only according to the second option (without using additional programs).

Excerpt

From 10 minutes to several hours. The longer it is, the longer the lines drawn by the stars. It takes a remote to set these values and a good tripod to keep it from being blown around by the wind for so long. Just keep in mind that at such shutter speeds it is very difficult to calculate the correct exposure.

Diaphragm

It is difficult to write specific values, since I do not know how to calculate the exposure, most likely only by experience. And there is always a risk that after half an hour of waiting, you will get an overexposed frame. I put it on the eye, for example, like this - an 11 mm lens, a shutter speed of 30 minutes, an aperture of 7.1, ISO 400.

Focal length

In this case, it is no longer possible to say that it is better when it is minimal, because the precious seconds of exposure are no longer so important, there will be enough light anyway, the count goes not for seconds, but for tens of minutes. Therefore, if the composition of the frame is good on a regular lens, and not on a wide-angle lens (there is enough angle), then this is even better, since you will have to wait much less until the frame is shot. But you need to understand that the stars will be closer and their tracks will become less round. You won't need a lens larger than 50mm.

Determination of the center of rotation of stars

Since the stars in the sky rotate, their tracks are circles, which, of course, have a center. And, if you build the composition of the frame in a certain way, then it will be useful to know where this very center is. Therefore, in the northern hemisphere we direct the lens to the North Star, and in the southern hemisphere to Sigma Octant. Rotating, in half an hour the star forms an arc of 7.5 degrees, and this arc is the longer, the farther the star is from the North Star or from Sigma Octanta.

At the center of rotation is the North Star. ISO400, 11mm, f7.1, 1793sec

Now about how to look for the stars we need. The easiest way to find the North Star is through Ursa Major. We find the constellation on the horizon, mentally connect two bucket stars that form one of its walls, located opposite the bucket handle, and get a line. Mentally set aside 5 distances along this line from the bucket (from its top and further) and rest against the North Star.

Sigma Octantu in the southern hemisphere, it seems to me, is almost impossible to find. It is easier to be guided by the constellation of the Southern Cross. We first find it in the sky, and then we extend the long crossbar of the cross down by 4.5 distances of this same crossbar. Approximately in this place there will be Sigma Octant.

How to photograph the starry sky - tracks in the program

All settings are set exactly the same as in the first paragraph when shooting static stars. I will not repeat. But in fact, you can use slower shutter speeds when you can see a slight shift in the stars. All the same, in the program all this will be glued together. But in this case, as separate photos, they will not be very beautiful, and then you can’t do timelapse.

Software for gluing tracks

Surely there are different programs, but I only know one - Startrails Version 1.1, it is very simple and it is not difficult to understand it. We upload files and make tracks. If they turned out to be too long, then you can remove some of the photos from processing.

How to shoot timelapse

I did Timelapse with the stars only once, as this is a rather long task. And then, having made 99 frames, I left the tent and realized that the sky was overcast, and nothing else shines for me, it's a shame. Up to this point, I've only shot timelapse during the day, like the sun is setting or people are moving, and it was a video filming on a soap dish (it does it well for me), then sped up in Premier. And to shoot the sky, you need a camera, a video camera will not be able to shoot at such a slow shutter speed at night.

The video was used 99 frames (ISO1600, 11mm, f2.8, 27 sec) with a gap of 1 second. The total shooting time is 46 minutes. This was enough for 4-7 seconds of video. If you make it slower, then it will already be noticeable how the image is interrupted.

Here is a small calculation of how many photos you will need to have for a 1-minute video with the rotation of the starry sky. The video contains 25 frames in 1 second, and if it is a minute, then it will be 25 * 60 = 1500 frames. We shoot each photo, for example, with a shutter speed of 30 seconds and an interval between frames of 1 second, which means that to shoot 1500 frames we will have to spend 31 * 1500 = 46500 seconds, or 775 minutes, or ~ 13 hours.

Some nuances when shooting a starry sky

1. If the moon shines brightly in the sky, then the stars will be faded against the blue sky. Therefore, you need to shoot before moonrise, or at a time and place where the moon is not visible, as well as on a new moon. For example, in August in the Crimea for 5 days of the campaign, I never saw her, and the sky was black and black. But in fact, lunar landscapes can be quite beautiful, the night luminary illuminates everything around very well.

2. Lights big city in the same way, they light up the sky well, and inside the city it’s not realistic to shoot the starry sky at all, you need to move away for tens of kilometers. And only if the city is visible somewhere in the distance, then an interesting backlight can turn out.

- It should be borne in mind that at night there is a possibility of fogging of the front lens. Therefore, if it is humid, then ultra-long exposures and shooting tracks are not always possible.

3. With long exposures of ten minutes or more, the matrix heats up and terrible noises appear in the photo. I won’t say about all DSLRs, but in my Canon 7d it is very noticeable - a lot of multi-colored dots in the photo. But the function of noise reduction at slow shutter speeds saves, they are somehow subtracted from the image. There is only such a moment, the noise reduction works as long as the shutter speed lasted, which means that the duration of shooting one frame is doubled, for example, instead of 30 minutes, a whole hour. The option of shooting tracks by gluing photos in specialized software does not have this drawback, the matrix does not have time to heat up.

4. It is enough to shoot just the starry sky once. Next, you want to do more interesting photos, and they need objects in the foreground. Therefore, there is a problem of choosing a place for shooting, an ordinary field or forest looks so-so, you need to experiment and turn on your imagination. Personally, I like the mountains most of all in this regard, but since I don’t go there often, I don’t have so many shots of the starry sky.

Beautiful Mecha, Tula region. ISO1600, 11mm, f2.8, 30sec

Photographer, blogger and traveler Anton Yankovoy continues to talk about the features of shooting the starry sky and night landscapes.

There are two main approaches to night photography:

1) shooting static stars, when in the final image we see them the same as our eye perceives them - in the form of many points in the sky;

2) shooting tracks using very slow shutter speeds, in which the photograph captures the trajectory of the movement of stars across the sky around the South or North Pole of the world.

Let's take a look at each of them in more detail...

Shooting static stars

In astrophotography, a guided parallax mount is used to image static stars, star clusters, galaxies, nebulae, and more. A parallax mount is such a mount, one of the axes of which can be installed parallel to the axis of the world, directed to the North Pole. Guiding is the process of controlling and correcting the tracking of a camera or telescope for the movement of celestial objects - usually as a result of the daily rotation of the sky - during an exposure.

Of course, all this is very interesting, but for some reason it seems to me that most ordinary photographers do not have such special devices, so in this article we will consider shooting only using a simple tripod, and those who are interested in astrophotography will easily find a lot of information on this topic. in the Internet.

So, what do we need to know in order to take a picture with a static, trackless starry sky? The most important thing to remember is the simple rule of 600, which is this: if you divide 600 by the focal length of your lens (35mm camera equivalent), we get the maximum shutter speed at which the stars in the sky look like dots, not dashes. So, for a 15mm lens, the maximum shutter speed when shooting static stars will be 600 / 15 = 40 seconds, and for a 50mm lens - 600 / 50 = 12 seconds.

Based on this rule, we set the resulting shutter speed in the camera and, if possible, leave the aperture as open as possible, which would give an acceptable picture quality. Now we just have to choose the ISO value at which we get a balanced exposed image.

Note. Mirror blocking can significantly increase the sharpness of exposures comparable in duration to mirror positioning time (~1/30 to 2 seconds). On the other hand, mirror shake is negligible for shutter speeds that are much longer; as a result, mirror blocking is not critical in most cases when shooting at night.

Shooting tracks

Shooting the rotation of the starry sky requires the longest exposures - from 10 minutes to several hours, depending on focal length and how long trajectories you want to get in the picture. The exact value of shutter speed is difficult to calculate, it can be determined only on the basis of your personal experience and track length preferences. For example, I know that a 50mm lens needs an exposure time of 20–40 minutes for tracks that are beautiful to my taste, a 24mm lens needs about 90–120 minutes, and so on.

There are two main approaches to shooting such scenes:
1) shooting in one frame;
2) shooting a continuous series of images with their subsequent stitching in specialized software.
Until recently, almost all photographers who wanted to capture the circular rotation of stars in a picture used the first method. I highly recommend the second option. But in order for you to decide for yourself what is preferable for you, let's look at all the disadvantages of the first and the advantages of the second approach.
So, the disadvantages of shooting in one frame:

the difficulty of calculating the correct exposure pair, in which the picture would be balanced both in shadows and in light. It is sad to find an overexposed or underexposed image even after a half-hour exposure, not to mention exposures lasting several hours;
using even the most modern digital technology at ultra-long exposures, strong, sometimes simply unbearable, digital noise appears in the pictures (even with relatively low values ISO);
high risk of movement with such long exposures;
if you don’t notice in time how your front lens is fogged up, write wasted.

The advantages of taking a series of shots with relatively fast shutter speeds and then combining them into one frame:

ease of calculation of exposure pairs for shots with a short shutter speed (usually no more than 30–60 seconds), which will make up our series;
exclusion of the possibility of overexposure / underexposure;
relatively imperceptible digital noise in the pictures, which after stitching all the frames becomes even more uniform, if not completely indistinguishable;
when selecting frames for final stitching, you can simply exclude images with movement or glue only the number of them that was taken before/after the camera shift. Thus, we are completely insured against this problem;
the ability to control the length of star tracks. If we don't like the excessive length of the trajectories of the stars in the final image, we can simply exclude some of the images from the series, thereby changing the length of the tracks;
as a result, we get not only one final frame with star tracks, but also a large number of shots with a static starry sky, some of which can be very successful;
if during the shooting of the series we did not notice how the front lens fogged up, then we can use only successful frames when stitching, excluding defective ones;
it is possible to use a series of obtained photographs for editing videos with the rapid movement of stars across the sky.

Note. When shooting a series of night shots, do not forget to uncheck the Long Exposure Noise Reduction camera settings, otherwise the shutter speed you set will be doubled (the second half of the shutter speed will be noise reduction, subtracting the noise map from the picture you took).
As we can see from this comparison, the advantages of the second approach are much greater. It remains only to make out a few nuances of shooting such series. To begin with, it is worth noting that it is desirable to shoot them in RAW format with duplication in JPG of low quality, in order to later make it easier and faster to experiment with stitching a different number of frames without their preliminary scrupulous conversion. If we talk about the duration of exposures, then I personally advise using shutter speeds calculated according to the 600 rule for shooting a series of night shots.
Next, we set all other exposure parameters - ISO and aperture, connect the programmable cable release to the camera, which was already described earlier, set the minimum interval between shots (1 second) and the number of shots in the series (if set to 0, then shooting will continue indefinitely , until the battery in the camera or in the cable runs out). That's all! We press the "Start" button and get comfortable in order to comfortably spend the next few hours.

Finding the poles

If you need to get pronounced circles of rotation in the picture, then the lens should be directed to the North Star (in the Northern Hemisphere) or Octant Sigma (in the Southern Hemisphere). For shooting landscapes with a starry sky, it is good to have basic knowledge of astronomy, in particular, to be able to determine the direction of the Earth's rotation relative to the starry sky.

Since the majority of the Russian-speaking population lives mainly in the Northern Hemisphere and travels around it, let's look at it first.
Due to the rotation of the Earth around its axis, it seems to us that it is the starry sky that is moving. In the Northern Hemisphere, this rotation is counterclockwise around a point called the North Pole of the World. Near this point is the North Star.

Everyone knows that the Earth rotates around its axis with a period of ~24 hours. It rotates about 0.25° per minute. Therefore, in one hour for each star, a 15-degree arc is obtained. It is longer if the star is at a greater distance from the Polaris.
The North Star is a supergiant, but finding it is not always easy, since the distance from it to the Earth is 472 light years. Therefore, in order to find the North Star, you must first determine the characteristic configuration of the seven bright stars of the constellation Ursa Major, resembling a ladle (asterism Big Dipper), and then through two stars of the ladle wall opposite the handle, mentally draw a line on which five times put off the distance between these extreme stars. Approximately at the end of this line is the North Star, which is also the brightest in the constellation Ursa Minor, also similar to a bucket, although not so pronounced and noticeable in the sky.

The North Star is always located above the northern point of the horizon in the Northern Hemisphere, which allows it to be used for orientation on the ground, and by its height above the horizon, you can determine at what geographical latitude we are.

Do you want to compare the North Star with the Sun? So she:

6 times heavier than the Sun;
more than the Sun 120 times;
radiates heat and light 10,000 times more than the Sun;
just like the Sun, yellow.

But a ray of light from the Sun reaches the Earth in just 8 minutes, and from the Polar - in 472 years, which means that at present we see the star as it was in the time of Columbus.

South Pole of Peace

In the Southern Hemisphere, the only star that points to the South Pole of the World is Sigma Octanta. But it is also barely distinguishable and does not stand out at all from the other stars, so it is absolutely impossible to use it for navigational purposes, like the North Star in the constellation Ursa Minor. The position of this star can only be determined using the constellation of the Southern Cross, whose long bar points to the South Pole of the World (a line drawn through the gamma and alpha of the Southern Cross approximately passes through the South Pole of the world at a distance of 4.5 times farther than the distance between these stars).

The Southern Cross (lat. Crux) is the most famous constellation in the Southern Hemisphere and at the same time the smallest constellation in the sky in terms of area. It borders the constellations Centaurus and Mukha. Four bright stars form an easily recognizable asterism. The constellation is easy to find in the sky: it is located near the Coal Sack Nebula, which is visible to the naked eye as a dark spot against the background of the Milky Way.

Useful programs

Work examples

To inspire you, in addition to my work, I will give as an example another 10 of the best photos of stars that I managed to find on the Internet. Experiment and you will succeed!

© Tom Lowe | Photo - Winner of Astronomy Photographer of the Year - 2010 | 32 sec, f/3.2, ISO 3200, 16mm AF (Canon 5D Mark II + Canon EF 16–35mm f/2.8 L USM)

© Mark Adamus; brightest point - planet Jupiter | 45 sec, f/2.8, ISO 3200, 16mm FR (Canon 1Ds Mark III + Canon EF 16–35 mm f/2.8 L USM)

Conclusion

OK it's all over Now! Now you know what stars are, what they eat with and how to shoot them. I will be glad to any questions and comments.
In conclusion, I would like to say: in addition to the fact that the night is a great time for photography, it is also an amazing, mystical time when you can be alone with yourself, get away from everyday life and worldly fuss, plunge into the dark abyss in order to rethink life's values. and just look at your being from the outside.