home Ideas The first plantings in the greenhouse in the spring. Necessary preparation of the greenhouse for the new season in spring

The first plantings in the greenhouse in the spring. Necessary preparation of the greenhouse for the new season in spring

Spring has come, many gardeners begin to itch their hands and, if possible, everyone tries to get to their site as early as possible. On a warm spring day, all the snow has not yet melted, you won’t step on the ground in the garden, because you can drown in mud up to your ankles, but it’s already warm and dry enough in the greenhouse. First of all, gardeners check their favorite greenhouses and, if possible, begin to prepare them for the new season and even carry out the first plantings.

What can be done in the greenhouse in early spring?

Until you enter the garden, you can do work in the greenhouse, from general cleaning to preparing the soil for planting vegetables and the first planting of vegetables.

1. Cleaning and disinfection in the greenhouse.

First of all, the greenhouse needs to be cleaned. If in the fall you did not have time to remove the tops, plant debris, then you need to do it now, since pests and pathogens remain in this garbage.

Cleaning includes not only cleaning the land from plant debris, but also washing the walls and ceiling of the greenhouse. To do this, take a bucket of water, add a little liquid soap or any cleaning agent and a rag, or even lighter with a mop, wipe all light-conducting surfaces. Over the past season, a lot of dust and dirt have accumulated on glasses or polycarbonate, which means that the light transmission capacity has decreased. While the weather does not allow, it is not necessary to wash the greenhouse outside, when it rains, the main layer of dirt will be washed away by precipitation.

If last season in the greenhouse plants were attacked by hard-to-kill pests - spider mites, aphids or whiteflies, then the greenhouse must be thoroughly disinfected by spraying the entire structure from the inside and the surface of the earth with a solution with karbofos or copper sulphate or by fumigating with a sulfur checker.

2. Preparation of land in the greenhouse.

The preparation of the land in the greenhouse is best done in the fall, but it is not too late to carry out this work in the spring. The soil is dug up, humus, mineral fertilizers are applied, green manure is sown to increase fertility.

If the plants in the greenhouse were susceptible to any diseases - powdery mildew, late blight, spotting, then it is recommended to heal the earth with the help of biological preparations - phytosporin, trichodermin, phytobacterin, sporobacterin, etc. Biological preparations are diluted in water, watered the ground in the greenhouse and covered with dark film to speed up the warming of the soil.

3. What can be planted in a greenhouse in early spring:

If all the work to prepare the greenhouse for the new season was carried out in the fall, then in early spring you can start planting cold-resistant vegetable crops to get the earliest harvest before planting seedlings of the main vegetable crops.

- At the end of March, a large seedling can be planted in the greenhouse for forcing onions into greenery. A seedling 2 cm in diameter often gives an arrow, so it is not used for growing bulbs, but it gives greenery well. It is better to plant the seedling along the edge of the bed in the greenhouse, after 10 cm, deepening by 1-2 cm. Before planting the main vegetable crops, the seedling will give a good feather, you can pull out the bulbs selectively.

- Radishes are often grown as a pre-culture in a greenhouse . Sowing of radish is carried out as soon as the soil is ready. Use early varieties of radish "18 days", "Heat", "French Breakfast". You can sow radishes along the edge of the beds in the greenhouse, in grooves 1.5-2 cm deep. Radish crops should be watered regularly, as radishes love moist soil. On hot spring days in late March - early April, it is not necessary to open the greenhouse with the first crops during the day, since the earth has not yet warmed up enough.

- In the greenhouse in late March - early April, you can sow any early greens - lettuce, dill, basil, arugula . All these green crops will give a good harvest in May and in June all the greens can already be completely removed from the greenhouse, freeing up space for the main vegetables. Sowing greens can be carried out along the edges, pointwise, leaving the bulk of the beds free for early planting seedlings in late April - early May.

- Early in the spring, you can sow early cabbage in the greenhouse for seedlings . It is difficult to grow good seedlings of cabbage in an apartment, since this crop does not like high temperatures, low air and soil humidity, and when sown in a greenhouse, plants are protected from severe frosts. When sowing early cabbage for seedlings in early April with a ripening period of 90 days, in June you will get a crop of fresh cabbage.

The snow has melted, the garden has dried up a little - it's time to start preparing for spring plantings. An important task of every summer gardener is to prepare a greenhouse, because it is here that early plants will be planted first. The RMNT website will tell you how to prepare your greenhouse for planting in the spring.

We are sure that thanks to the detailed instructions of the site portal, you carefully prepared the greenhouse for winter. In this case, you will have much less work in the spring, but still there is a lot to be done. First of all, you need to inspect the greenhouse - after a snowy winter, damage is likely.

Under the weight of snow, the polycarbonate coating could burst or bend, damage to the glazing is not uncommon. Yes, and the frame itself could well break in some places, bend, crack. In such cases, repairs are required, strengthening the base of the greenhouse, replacing polycarbonate, film or glass. Slots in frames and transoms can be sealed with sealant, and small damage to the film can be sealed with adhesive tape.

The next step is cleaning. You carry out a general cleaning of the house in the spring, so the greenhouse simply needs it. We understand that in the fall you already washed polycarbonate or glass, washed, dried and hid the film. But over the winter, they all definitely became dusty, dirty, and everything needs to be done anew in order to provide the plants with normal access to sunlight. We remove garbage from the greenhouse, remove everything unnecessary.

I wash glass and polycarbonate inside and out, we recommend adding a little copper sulfate (100 grams per 10 liters of water) or bleach (300 grams per the same amount of water) to the soapy solution. This will disinfect surfaces. You should work with gloves. Many summer residents simply use a solution of laundry soap, without any additives, it also disinfects surfaces well.

Important! Polycarbonate is washed with soft sponges and brushes, without abrasive products, so as not to scratch.

The frame of the greenhouse is also washed, preferably with water with the addition of vinegar. After such a thorough cleaning, the greenhouse should be left open to ventilate and dry.

Before you start arranging the beds, you need to prepare the soil. This is very important point! Firstly, pests could remain in the soil since autumn, which you then have to deal with, and secondly, the soil in the greenhouse is depleted quickly, you need to improve its quality before planting.

The cardinal way is to completely remove the top layer of soil to a depth of 20-25 centimeters. That is, to dig and take out all the soil from the greenhouse, in order to then fill in a new one, more fertile and without pests. In a small greenhouse, this method, of course, can be used, although it is quite laborious. But in larger greenhouses, this is already impractical, too much work.

The following simple methods apply:

Thermal. The soil is simply spilled with hot water, almost boiling water. It will simultaneously kill harmful microorganisms and warm the soil, which is important for the early planting of vegetables and herbs.
Chemical. Use smoke chamois, copper sulphate, phytosporin, bayleton, fitoverm, other ready-made preparations that are diluted with water, according to the instructions on the package. They work well, but many summer residents try to do without chemistry.
Biological. The most acceptable and effective. Such preparations as "Fitop-floras-S", "Emochka-Bokashi" and others are used. Apply them according to the manufacturer's instructions.

To improve the quality of the soil in the greenhouse, experts advise sowing green manure in it in the fall. Winter oats and rye are sown in winter. If you didn't, don't worry, there are other methods. Of course, the easiest way is to use ready-made fertilizers, but many gardeners prefer to simply dig up the soil, adding compost, humus, and peat prepared since last year. Such a natural fertilizer as sapropel has proven itself superbly. You will bring it into the soil and it will be almost completely renewed, and for several years to come.

Now we turn to the arrangement of beds, paths or their renewal. By the way, if you use raised beds made of boards, slate, and other materials, such a frame also had to be disinfected beforehand!

We wrote in detail about what should be in the greenhouse for convenient and fruitful work. That's all, now you can wait a bit until the soil temperature rises to the desired +17 ° C during the day and at least +5 ° C at night to start planting cucumber-tomatoes.

Soil preparation

During the winter, the soil in the greenhouse dries up very much, it becomes almost dusty. On the one hand, this is good. Dry soil is an excellent thermal insulator. In a greenhouse, the ground does not freeze deeply or does not freeze at all, unlike open ground. On the other hand, it is bad, because in spring dry soil warms up for a long time. That is why it is so important to bring the soil “to life” in advance in the spring.

In the greenhouse, the soil must be warmed up to a temperature of +10 - +15 ° C. When the bright sun shines, the air inside the greenhouse warms up almost instantly, it is kept inside the structure by the walls and roof, and the ground remains cold for a very long time - several weeks. To provide plants with normal growing conditions, the soil in the greenhouse must be warm.

First of all, the soil must be loosened to make it breathable. Then you need to make small trenches in the beds with a depth of a shovel bayonet. Such procedures will significantly increase the contact of warm air with cold soil.

After that, the soil must be moistened with warm water.. To do this, you can use ordinary heated water, or you can shed the soil in the greenhouse with a warm solution of nutrients, for example, a solution of EM-1, Emochek, Baikal-1. You can also use a dry biological product, for example, Emochki-Bokashi, which is enough to sprinkle on top of the ground and pour with ordinary warm water. These procedures will “revive” the soil, soil microorganisms will wake up in it and get to work.

The ridges between the trenches will warm up the fastest, since their area is small, and the water temperature is high. Having leveled the ridges, we will distribute the heat throughout the soil, we will get a relatively large layer of warm "living" earth.

Important! Do not throw snow into the greenhouse from the street. Many do this, explaining that this is how they try to saturate the earth with water. Water, of course, will penetrate deep into the soil, it will be saturated with water, but it will not warm up, and the greenhouse season will begin 2 to 3 weeks later.

By irrigating trenches with hot water, we almost instantly raise the soil temperature to +10 - +15 °C. This will allow you to immediately sow cold-resistant and early-ripening crops: radish, leaf lettuce, onion on a feather, watercress, parsley seedlings. Further, the temperature of the soil in the greenhouse will be maintained by solar energy.

Soil treatment from diseases

The soil was warmed up, soil microorganisms were awakened. What's next? Do not forget that the risk of fungal and bacterial plant diseases is extremely high in the greenhouse. Late blight, Alternaria, black leg, powdery mildew and others are the scourge of greenhouses.

To carry out preventive work, it is necessary to process the soil, as well as all the details of the greenhouse - wooden parts, boxes, base, walls. Any biofungicide can be used as a fungal treatment. For example, "Fitosporin", "Mikosan-N", "Trichodermin", "Planriz", "Phytocid", "Healthy Soil".

To better warm the soil in the greenhouse, it can be covered with black agrofibre. Heating up under the rays of the sun, it will transfer heat to the earth. This is in the event that landings will not be soon. But mulching the soil before a constant positive temperature is established in the greenhouse is not worth it. Although it all depends on the color of the mulch. Under a dark mulch, the soil will warm up, under a light mulch, it will remain cold.

Before planting cucumbers in the greenhouse, prepare the soil - treat it with Azotofit or another drug that forces nitrogen to be fixed from the air.

To saturate the air in the greenhouse carbon dioxide necessary for plants, inside the greenhouse you can install a container with compost or something else that ferments. For example, you can fill a container with chicken manure, compost from a pile, or EM compost from plant residues or organic food from the table. Plants grow faster in a carbon dioxide-rich environment.

Having planted early plants in March, be ready to get the first harvest in April.

Spring work in the greenhouse

If you do not have a greenhouse, it does not matter. You can quickly build a greenhouse on solar heating. This is a great option for summer residents who come and go. In the greenhouse, you can grow seedlings and the first spring greens.

It is necessary to prepare a greenhouse in advance in the fall. The place for the greenhouse should be well lit and high enough so that it is not flooded with melted spring waters. The depth of the pit for a greenhouse should be about 70 cm. A convenient width is the size of a frame with glass or film.

Up to half of the pit must be filled with humus, compost or other plant residues. A layer of fertile soil is poured on top. In late February - early March, the greenhouse must be covered with a frame with glass so that it warms up. The frame must be positioned with a slope to the south.
Before planting seedlings or sowing seeds, the greenhouse should be well ventilated and spill the soil with warm or hot water, as is the case with a greenhouse.

In such an earthen greenhouse, you can safely grow seedlings of crops such as tomatoes, cabbage, eggplant, peppers and various flowers. From time to time, the greenhouse must be ventilated so that the plants do not get sick with fungal or bacterial diseases. Better yet, treat the soil with fungicides.

Please note that in sunny weather, the leaves of immature plants may turn yellow - “burn out” in the sun, as glass enhances the heating effect. To protect the plants, they should be covered with a covering material and only on top with glass.

Using a greenhouse for growing seedlings in the open field allows you to grow strong plants with dark green leaves and a developed root system, and also eliminates the need to use many cups for seedlings. And the window sills are not cluttered.

"Housing" for seedlings: distribution bed and stalk

If it is better to grow seedlings of vegetables and annual flowers in a greenhouse or greenhouse, then for breeding seedlings of perennial flowers it is more expedient to equip a special bed - wiring. On such a bed in the summer - in June, seeds of perennial flowers are sown, and in the fall, bulbs are planted for growing.

Small bulbous "children" are grown on breeding beds for 2-3 years, and the buds that appear on them during the growing season are carefully removed. On a seedbed, you can, for example, plant lily bulbs. After 2 - 3 years you will get large lily bulbs.

It is better not to sow the seeds of perennial flowers directly into the garden, but first in plastic cups or containers. At the bottom of such cups or containers, a drainage layer must be provided. It is advisable to sign the container, indicating the name of the plant and variety. And only then the container should be dug into the ground in the garden. This method avoids the loss of "fighters". After all, sometimes plant varieties are mixed up, and it happens that weak seedlings suffer in the process of weeding.

The distribution bed is best placed in partial shade or, conversely, in a site illuminated by direct sunlight, but on the north side, the site should be protected from the wind by a wall or fence. It is advisable to limit the beds with boards made of wooden boards 15–30 cm high. You can also place arcs over the bed, allowing you to cover the plants from frost with a film or from the scorching sun. The optimal width of the distribution bed is 1.5 m, the length can be any. But the orientation to the cardinal points should be from west to east.

It is extremely important that the soil on the spreading bed is fertile, light, air and moisture permeable. If the soil in the area is clayey, then it is necessary to perform drainage. To loosen the soil, you can add sand to it. Leaf and sod land will also be useful, but adding compost to the soil is undesirable. Ash can be used to fertilize the soil. Its secretions stimulate the formation and development of the root system. Watering the plants in the distribution bed must be carried out in a timely manner, to prevent severe drying, but it is also not worth over-wetting. It is better to loosen the soil once again or even better to mulch, keeping moisture inside the soil and reducing evaporation.

It is also inconvenient to propagate berry and ornamental shrubs in ordinary beds. For this purpose, they construct cutting plant. After all, the main condition for the successful rooting of cuttings is high humidity.

The cuttings must be placed in a shady place and covered with glass or plastic wrap on the arcs. It is desirable to position the frame under a slight slope to the south. If plastic wrap is used, its edges must be securely pressed to the ground.

Some gardeners root cuttings with plastic bottles, installing from above the handle upside down.

So that water does not stagnate in the beds for cuttings, it is imperative to equip drainage from crushed stone, gravel or expanded clay with a layer of 10–15 cm. A layer of sand 5–7 cm is poured on top of the fertile layer. Spraying is necessary from time to time. Rooted cuttings are left for the winter in the cuttings and only the next year they are transplanted into open ground to a permanent place.

Remember that soil preparation in a greenhouse, hotbed or seed bed is the key to large yields. Healthy seedlings, and then plants, are a direct consequence of taking care of soil fertility and preventing dangerous diseases. Delight your family with fresh, clean, home-grown vegetables and herbs as early and as often as possible. And bad weather or late frosts are not a hindrance if you have properly prepared a greenhouse or greenhouse.

Protected ground facilities enable amateurs to grow seedlings of garden crops, seedlings of flowers, root cuttings of fruit and ornamental trees and shrubs. But before settling by green residents, they must undergo certain training. How to properly prepare the outside and inside the greenhouse so that in the spring you can start growing the planned crops in it, you can find out from the article.

Cleaning the interior from plant residues

The process of preparing a greenhouse in the spring also includes such an obligatory item as liberation from the remains of plants that live here last season. This step makes it possible to prevent the development in a closed system of closed ground of some diseases that affected the predecessors. For example, most pathogenic fungi do not die with the plant, but safely overwinter on dried leaves and stems.

Attention! Remains removed from the greenhouse are best taken outside the site or burned.

The roots of obsolete plants should also be removed from the greenhouse in without fail. At the same time, you can replace the top layer of soil. Step by step, this procedure looks like this:

Remove from 5 to 7 cm of soil. Roots are picked and discarded. The earth is transferred from the greenhouse to the open space.
Lay a layer of humus, and then manure.
All are sprinkled with a small (about 3 cm) layer of garden soil.

Additionally, soil disinfection should be carried out. To do this, use a solution of copper sulfate, which is poured into the soil in the greenhouse after loosening.

How to disinfect

Spring treatment with disinfectants of the interior during the preparation of the greenhouse is very important, since only this technique can destroy the spores of a fungus that is dangerous for crops and causes late blight. It is carried out in several ways:

with the help of sulfuric gas checkers;

Disinfection with checkers

spraying with slaked lime mixed with copper sulphate;
treatment of walls, ceiling and soil with special biological products.

Attention! All dez. solutions are poisonous. They should only be handled with appropriate protection.

For gas treatment most often used checkers with sulfur "Climate". During their combustion, acids are formed that penetrate even into imperceptible cracks. Thus, fungi, slugs, spider mites are destroyed. The procedure is carried out with the door and vents tightly closed. 50 g of sulfur are required per 1 m³. Ventilate the greenhouse 3 days after fumigation. Some greenhouse owners oppose this method of disinfection, citing its low efficiency and the high percentage of sulfur compounds entering the non-draining soil of the protected ground, which is a guarantee of its absorption by plants.

Processing in the following way consists in spraying the walls, ceiling and frame with a solution of a mixture consisting of 3 kg of slaked lime and 500 g of copper sulfate (per bucket of water). This method is also not good enough due to the fact that the drugs are toxic to humans.

The use of biopreparations during the preparation of the greenhouse for spring plantings is considered the most effective, safe and promising way to get rid of fungi and harmful microflora. In addition, according to manufacturers, such processing increases productivity. For 10 liters of water you need 100 g of the drug.

How to prepare the soil

For normal plant growth and, accordingly, to obtain a good harvest, an adequate supply of nutrients in the soil is required. Therefore, before planting crops in a greenhouse, prepare the soil.

Here you can use 2 methods:

introduction of organics and minerals;
sowing .

legumes;
cereals;
phacelia;
mustard.

They are sown in the greenhouse very densely, early in the spring. A week or two before the planned planting of vegetables, green manure is cut with a flat cutter and added dropwise to a depth of 3-4 cm.

Preparing a greenhouse is a very important event, on the correctness of which depends good health planted crops. After reading the article, viewing the photos and videos attached to the article, most fans will be able to figure it out and do the work on their own.

What to do in a greenhouse before planting: video

If you have suburban area there is a greenhouse or even several, with the onset of autumn cold weather (after harvesting), it is immediately necessary to begin preparing these structures for winter. this work very important - the quality and quantity of the crop obtained in it depends on how correctly the greenhouse overwinter.

In autumn, the greenhouse needs a whole range of activities. But after it is held in the spring, you will only have to plant seedlings in a clean and healthy "house".

Greenhouse conditions are necessary for plants to protect themselves from their main enemy - cold. Inside the greenhouse, thanks to the ingenious design and materials from which it is made, constant temperature and maintains the humidity necessary for plants to successful development. But precisely because of this ability of the greenhouse to create favorable conditions for plants, there is a danger that weeds and pathogens will also feel great in a warm and humid environment. Bacteria that remain in the greenhouse after harvesting will safely survive the winter, and in the spring they will attack young seedling sprouts. Harvest can not wait.

Therefore, the preparation does not involve protection from the winter cold, as is done with perennials or young tree seedlings, but also the final processing of all components of the greenhouse.

Autumn processing of the greenhouse includes two main areas of work:

putting in order the soil in greenhouse beds;
disinfection of the structure (framework, covering material).

You should start with tillage. And it is necessary to start work before the onset of serious cold weather.

Autumn processing of greenhouse beds

It all starts with cleaning. On a dry, not rainy and windless day, go to the greenhouse and remove all plant debris from it.

The first stage - general cleaning

With the release of beds from annual crops, there are not many questions - just remove obsolete plants, and, if possible, all their parts, underground and aboveground. The same applies to the remains of fruits and vegetables - in a word, everything that interferes with the cleanliness of the ridges must be removed.

Advice! Even if the plants in the greenhouse were not sick, not affected by pests, and you did not treat them with chemicals, do not send the collected plant residues to the compost pit and do not leave them on the site. There are two ways to dispose of plant waste - burning or landfilling off site. If your gardening association provides organized waste collection, you can send waste there.

In addition to annual plants, perennials are sometimes located in the greenhouse. Weed perennials are treated in the same way as with the remains cultivated plants- uprooted and disposed of. Cultivated perennials - for example, garden strawberries - are subject to a thorough revision to remove rotten, dried, damaged specimens. They are also removed along with the root, and in the spring new ones are planted in their place.

The second stage is the removal of the soil

This is the most time-consuming task of all that you face in the process of autumn greenhouse processing. But you have to do it, and do it well. If annual vegetables, flowers, or other useful plants are grown (and in most cases they do - that's what greenhouses are for), the topsoil must be removed annually. This is an immutable rule that underlies the future harvest.

The layer of removed soil is at least 15 cm. There should not be any difficulties with where to put this soil - it can be taken out to open ridges, sprinkled on flower beds, under trees, in alpine hills. Only before this, it is desirable to disinfect the removed soil.

The question is more complicated - what to fill in the greenhouse instead of the removed soil. In a short period, you need to create a new fertile layer. This is not easy to do, since beneficial microorganisms have a limited period of time - before the onset of frost, to start processing new soil. Therefore, the soil must be ideally suited.

There are two ways to replenish greenhouse beds with soil:

import from outside (purchase);
self-preparation (compilation of various components as required).

The first way is easier, but has " underwater rocks". It is the purchased soil that does not guarantee the presence of all the necessary components in it. Moreover, contrary to promises, unscrupulous sellers can bring you soil previously taken from other greenhouses. In appearance, it will be loose, dark, humus, fertile, but pouring it into a greenhouse is the same as not removing your waste soil, or even worse. New earth - new bacteria in addition to those already present on your site.

There is only one way out - to prepare the soil yourself.

Table number 1. What should be the soil for replacement in the greenhouse.

Soil parameter	Description
Correct Structure	The soil should have such a structure that it is not necessary to carry out loosening after each watering. In this case, the soil fractions should not be small, resembling dust, which, when mixed with water, gives dirt, and not large, through which water passes like through a sieve.
High nutritional value	The soil must contain all the nutrients that plants need for full development. It should be rich in humus, that is, it should allow plants to quickly build up a high-quality and powerful root system, which, as you know, is impossible without its (humus) help.
No mineral salts	Yes, the initial soil in the greenhouse should be without mineral fertilizers. The nutrition of the soil is not enriching it with minerals, which will destroy the young sprout instead of providing it with nutrition. The sprout is incapable of assimilating mineral elements, it is like feeding a newborn baby with fried potatoes. The necessary mineral fertilizers will be applied later - in the spring, after planting seedlings.
moisture capacity	The soil must necessarily accept moisture and retain it, this is especially true for heated stationary greenhouses.
Neutral pH	This is important - the content of acid salts and alkali must be balanced.
Disinfection	Pathogens should not survive in this soil by spring. This can lead to the death of all seedlings or subsequent diseases of seedlings. Only thoroughly disinfected soil can guarantee the absence of bacteria.

As for the composition of the soil, it is classic and includes:

peat of high formation;
river or lake sand;
compost or manure.

And then the soil is designed to stop the effects of harmful substances, processing them, if not into useful ones, then at least neutral ones that do not harm plants. Humic acids help the soil in this, which make it fertile and meet all the parameters of a good soil. Manure, litter, turned into humus, processed by insects - this is a simplified scheme for replenishing the soil with such valuable and necessary humus. In this scheme, there is no place for mineral compounds, which are probably contained in purchased soils.

But if there is no time to wait until beneficial microorganisms create a fertile layer, you can use humic acids. The soil prepared for replacement is treated with Flora-S according to the instructions. After that, it remains only to disinfect the soil. But for this it is not at all necessary to pour boiling water, urea into it and poison it with potassium permanganate. The hay stick, which is contained in the Fitop-Flora-S preparation, will cope with the task much more efficiently and with benefits for the soil.

Fertilizers "Flora-S" and "Fitop-Flora-S"

Advice! Whatever type of vegetables you grow in a greenhouse, every five years you need to carry out a complete (not superficial, as annually) soil replacement to a depth of 35 cm. There is another option - in the fifth year, transfer the entire greenhouse to a new location.

Manure prices

humus

The third stage - disinfection

While the soil treated with humic acids "ripens", it is necessary to carry out disinfection in the greenhouse. Here all means are good, but the most commonly used are treatment with urea or other disinfectants and fumigation with sulfur. The second method is good because it can be used to disinfect not only the soil layer remaining in the greenhouse, but also the entire structure from the inside.

Important warning! Sulfur cannot be used to fumigate greenhouses, which are based on a metal frame.

Table number 2. Greenhouse disinfection methods.

Disinfection method	Description
	From the substance is prepared water solution. The proportions are as follows: 50 g of urea per 10 liters of water. The water is cold, the urea should dissolve completely. The resulting solution thoroughly waters the entire soil area in the greenhouse, not only reclaimed beds, but also passages, paths, aisles.
	Old-fashioned way - 50 g of sulfur per m² of working area of the greenhouse. Add kerosene to sulfur (arbitrary proportions), close all windows in the greenhouse and plug the cracks. Set fire to sulfur with kerosene and immediately leave the greenhouse, tightly closing the door. The effective temperature for this procedure is +12°C. The modern method of sulfuric disinfection involves the use of smoke sulfuric bombs. But it works faster - 6 hours is enough (against 48 "sulfur-kerosene" method). Precautions are the same: respirator, goggles, gloves, retreat after setting fire as quickly as possible.
	Can be used: - formalin liquid composition 2.5%; - copper sulfate in a solution of 0.75%; - slaked lime with water, diluted up to 10%; - Creolin solution 2% concentration.

Video - How the greenhouse is disinfected

Processing of the greenhouse structure and covering material

Disinfection of a structure can be carried out in different ways, depending on what materials the greenhouse is made of. In all cases, except for the preliminary treatment with sulfur, it is necessary to disinfect the frame and all covering material separately. Any fixed coating that remains to winter on the frame, as well as any removable coating that is removed for storage in order to be reused in the spring, is subject to mandatory disinfection.

Frame processing

Frames are of three types:

metal;
wooden;
PVC.

Do not forget that the metal frame is not subject to sulfuric treatment - sulfur can “eat” the metal, rendering the frame unusable.

Table number 3. How to process the frame of the greenhouse.

frame material	Processing methods
	Washed with boiling water with the addition of vinegar. At least 50 ml of vinegar is consumed per liter of boiling water.
	It can be treated with the same concentration of acetic solution as metal, but the water temperature should not exceed +60°C.
	It is best to use copper sulfate. The maximum concentration of the solution is 10%.

Coating processing

It also depends on what kind of material is used.

Film and glass

If the greenhouse is covered with a film or glazed, the coating is treated with a hot (at least + 40 ° C) solution of laundry soap. A bar of soap without impurities and with a high content of alkali weighing 100 g dissolves completely in boiling water (you can grate it). The solution, stirring, is cooled to the desired temperature. With a brush, a thorough treatment of all coatings is carried out, first from the inside and then from the outside.

Polycarbonate

It is processed not with active alkali, but with a solution of potassium permanganate. It should be intense and hot. It is not enough just to pour over the entire coating, trying not to miss a centimeter. It is important to wash the polycarbonate well from the inside. Particular attention - the corners, lower and upper (under the ceiling, wasp nests can be preserved). Outside, the structure can simply be poured with a solution. After disinfection, all doors open, a draft is provided and a quick drying of the greenhouse is arranged.

Removable film cover

Removable reusable film should also be treated with potassium permanganate, dried and sent for storage packed in a large sealed bag.

Prices for potassium permanganate

potassium permanganate

Strengthening the frame

If snowy winters are likely in your area, one more important work needs to be done before disinfecting a stationary greenhouse - strengthening the frame. For this purpose, temporary supports and arcs are used, which are installed inside. You can make them yourself or buy ready-made ones.

The emphasis is on the upper part (skate) of the structure. In order to protect a six-meter greenhouse from collapse, you will need at least four T-shaped props. They are fixed on the upper rungs of the structure and serve as additional insurance against collapse and breakage.

Advice! If the greenhouse is located in a windy area, and the amount of snow cover can increase critically, then double the number of props.

The supports are placed on a solid foundation. It can be plywood, metal sheet or other sealant. If you install props on the ground, under the weight of snow, they can sink into the soil.

For polycarbonate greenhouse there are norms for maximum loads on the frame. On average, they are as follows: 70 cm of dry, light snow and no more than 30 cm of wet, packed snow. Glass can withstand a load half as much, and a film, even the densest one, can withstand a maximum of 20 cm of dry snow cover.

That is why it is important to remove snow from the roof and walls of the greenhouse in a timely manner. Even if the design of the greenhouse provides for independent snowmelt (most modern polycarbonate greenhouses have this function), it does not hurt to control the process from time to time.

After installing the props, disinfecting procedures are carried out, the greenhouse is thoroughly ventilated (especially from sulfur checkers), dried and new soil is laid in it.