home Self-development What is the best way to install a polycarbonate greenhouse? How to install a greenhouse: useful tips for placement and assembly

What is the best way to install a polycarbonate greenhouse? How to install a greenhouse: useful tips for placement and assembly

Installing a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands on your site allows you to grow your own environmentally friendly crop - it is much safer than vegetables from the market, there is always a fresh abundance of vitamins on the table, and even in winter, opening a rolled up jar of cucumbers/tomatoes is a pleasure.

For those who are imbued with the value of such a perspective, we offer detailed instructions on how to install a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands, we will tell you how to properly prepare the site, which design is better to choose, what to install on, how to avoid typical mistakes during installation.

Design features and materials

On modern market products for a personal plot there are different polycarbonate greenhouses; how to choose and install directly depends on the materials and shape of the structure. The most popular types:

arched;
rectangular under a gable or sloping roof.

The structure frame can be made of various materials:

Prefabricated aluminum with powder coating, assembled according to the principle of a designer - the narrow end of the profile is inserted into the wider one. The mounting method is strong enough to withstand the elements.
Galvanized steel with a reliable protective layer, fastening principle - special joining parts: corners, strips, crosses, additionally fixed with a bolted connection.
From plastic pipes- the most inexpensive frame for installing a greenhouse.
Prefabricated welded structures consisting of valuable elements: pediments, arches, covering.

Installation of the greenhouse on the foundation, double arcs provide additional strength, the structures are relevant for winter structures

There is a budget-friendly way to install a greenhouse on a site, for example, by welding a frame from profile pipe or make it from wood. After installation and assembly, such structures are cleaned of scale and corrosion, primed, and painted.

Good to know: The optimal pipe size for making a medium-sized greenhouse frame is 40*20 mm with a wall thickness of 1.5-2 mm. For large structures, you should take pipes 60*20-40 mm.

Ready-made products for self-installation are presented in different configurations, and the price of the greenhouse depends on this. In addition to the frame with an entrance and covering material - polycarbonate, the structure can have several transom windows for ventilation, with different fittings, as well as seals that ensure tightness of the joints. Additional options help create and maintain a favorable microclimate for growing crops, so before installing a greenhouse, you should think about whether you want to save money or whether your goal is to get the highest quality, functional structure.

Finished products are accompanied by detailed printed instructions on how to properly install a polycarbonate greenhouse; assembly is carried out strictly according to the manufacturer’s diagram. These are serial products designed for standard conditions; on site the owner has to improve the construction himself, adapting the installation and assembly to the garden plot.

Watch the specialist's recommendations on how to select and install a polycarbonate greenhouse - assembly and installation, the video will help you avoid 10 common mistakes this process. Additionally, the video describes in detail how to choose cellular polycarbonate correctly, and explains in which direction to install it on the frame.

Site for installation of a greenhouse

The site for installing the greenhouse should preferably be located on a sunny, windless side. The width orientation is from east to west. It could be:

separate area;
a place near the house, if the structure is adjacent to the building, usually these are arched asymmetrical or rectangular single-pitched structures of a cantilever- (beam)-supporting type, suitable for installation on small personal plots.

Before installing a polycarbonate greenhouse, the site must be cleared of debris, the roots must be uprooted, fenced off with pegs, a rope stretched around the perimeter, and the soft layer of soil must be removed; this is approximately 300 mm of the top fertile soil.

Foundation - what to install a polycarbonate greenhouse on

The choice of foundation for reliable installation of a structure depends on several objective factors:

geodetic conditions;
relief;
shape, size, weight of the structure.

The strip base is considered the most versatile for installing any type of greenhouse. This foundation can be done in several ways:

pour a shallow monolithic concrete strip;
install ready-made blocks and tie them together with reinforcement and mortar;
lay a foundation of bricks;
build a rubble pedestal from clay and stones;
make a base box from thick timber treated with impregnations: antiseptics against rotting and fungus, moisture-repellent compounds, for example, machine oil or liquid bitumen so that the wood does not absorb moisture.

Temporary lightweight structures are usually installed on a columnar foundation. In uneven areas with large relief differences and swampy, shifting soil, on a slope, piles buried 200 mm below the freezing level of the soil in the region are preferable: screw, driven. Very rarely, a slab is poured for the installation of a greenhouse: floating or with adhesion ribs.

How to pour a monolithic concrete strip for installing a greenhouse

We dig a pit, 700 mm deep, pour in crushed stone, sandstone, and tamp the cushion. We lay the reinforcing frame, install the formwork, check the geometry, strengthen it with slopes, tighten it along the top so that the formwork does not fall apart under the load from the mortar, pour concrete, and bayonet it. Every 600-1000 mm we insert special fasteners or reinforcing bars with an outlet, and we will attach the frame to them. Leave for a month until the concrete is completely set. We remove the formwork, do vertical waterproofing: cover it with roofing felt, you can coat it thickly with bitumen mastic, and backfill it with soil.

Good to know: To install winter greenhouses, the base should be insulated with polystyrene foam boards or thermal insulation should be made by spraying polystyrene foam.

Installing a polycarbonate greenhouse on a block foundation; it is more practical to lay out an elevation made of cellular concrete on a strip monolithic base

Timber base

Installing a greenhouse on timber does not require much time or financial investment. We choose timber with ribs 100*100, 150*150 mm from hard wood. We saturate it with protective agents. We level the site, sprinkle it with crushed stone and sand, this stage can be eliminated, but it will ensure the durability of the structure.

Photo diagram of how to build a timber foundation for installing a greenhouse

Be sure to lay roofing felt in 2 layers, overlap the joints, and glue them with a blowtorch or bitumen. We assemble the base, the timber at the corners can be fastened:

on galvanized corners;
staples;
make cuts of ½ thickness and tighten with self-tapping screws or nails;
Drill holes and tighten with anchor bolts.

Installing a polycarbonate greenhouse on timber does not ensure the durability of the building

It is better to install the greenhouse on a concrete strip or beam, but it can also be installed on the ground. It is recommended to lay flat stones, bricks, and cellular concrete blocks under the base. Look step by step instructions How to install a polycarbonate greenhouse on the ground, the video will tell you how to assemble the structure and secure the frame.

How to install a polycarbonate greenhouse on a foundation

Before installing a polycarbonate greenhouse on timber, tape or any other foundation, we cover the base with roofing felt - horizontal waterproofing.

Good to know: Serial arched greenhouses are produced with a height of 1900 mm, which is due to the technical parameters of the carbonate sheet. This height is inconvenient for working inside, because the height of the beds is added. For installation of structures, a foundation with a high base of 300-400 mm is recommended. Winter greenhouses It is also advisable to install on a high foundation.

There are different ways to properly install a greenhouse on a site; each manufacturer offers its own assembly schemes. Some recommend first assembling and installing the frame, and then sheathing it with polycarbonate, others advise assembling and sheathing the main components, installing it on the foundation, and then fastening it together.

How to properly install a polycarbonate greenhouse, a good idea for winter structures

Assembly and installation - step-by-step instructions

Consider installing an arched structure. For quick and high-quality assembly, two people are required, and the following tools are also needed:

roulette;
level;
corner;
screwdriver;
a knife for cutting polycarbonate, a stationery knife with a thick blade or a metal file will do;
fine abrasive for cleaning ends.

Before installation, lay out the parts and assemble key components of the structure

We assemble the end parts. Place it horizontally on a flat surface. We remove the protective layer from the polycarbonate, place it on the end part, and attach it to thermal washers. We cut the coating along the contour of the element. We install the element on the foundation strictly vertically and fasten it to the base. Between them we install a transverse element of the base - the lower trim, and tighten it.

Next, install the arcs into specially provided mounts, insert one side, then the other. We install and fix transverse strips for structural rigidity. Using this algorithm we install the remaining elements.

Installation of arches strictly vertically, reinforced with transverse strips

Good to know: At the assembly stage, the fasteners should not be tightened too tightly in order to correct the geometry of the building if necessary. After final installation, all components will need to be tightened with force.

When the frame is installed and stretched, we cover the sides of the greenhouse with polycarbonate and screw it onto thermal washers. At the joints of the sheets we make an overlap of 100 mm, or connect through a joining profile, with 50 mm projections at the ends. Gaps between the frame and the covering material are unacceptable; the connection must be tight. As practice shows, before installing polycarbonate on a metal frame, you should strengthen a special sealing profile or stick double-sided tape.

Manufacturers and owners consider cost-effectiveness to be a significant advantage of polycarbonate-coated greenhouses. Cost reduction is largely determined by the possibility of not having to build a foundation. The lightness of the frame and transparent plastic allows you to do without a support base. However, the same reasons dictate the need for strong fastening to the ground so that the lightweight greenhouse structure does not turn over in gusty winds. There are clear rules according to which a greenhouse is installed on the ground. Compliance with them guarantees reliable fixation of the structure and the absence of problems with the harvest.

Specifics of installing a greenhouse without a foundation

Let’s immediately make a reservation that installing a lightweight polycarbonate greenhouse without a strip or point foundation is only suitable if the structure is used seasonally. It is not suitable for those who like year-round cultivation of greenhouse delights. The main disadvantage of this installation scheme is significant heat loss, reaching 10%. The energy generated by the sun, the main and only heater of spring-summer-autumn garden buildings, can be treated negligently. You can’t do this with electricity, gas and wood.

The second disadvantage is the absence of a fundamental barrier in the upper layers of the soil, which allows rodents and insects to freely penetrate the structure and cause damage to plants. This also happens because there remains a shrinkage gap of 10 cm between the ground surface and the bottom frame of the structure. But craftsmen have ways to prevent access, which will be discussed below.

Good reasons for simplified installation

For summer residents who operate “indoor gardens” exclusively from May to September/October, the method of installation on the ground offers many advantages, these are:

significant time savings, allowing installation to be completed in just a couple of fine days;
a significant reduction in costs due to the elimination of building materials used for foundation construction;
the ability to do all the work of preparing the base and installation yourself, with the assistance of only one assistant;
ease of dismantling in case of dismantling the structure at the end of the season;
mobility, ensuring the movement of the structure to a more fertile place if the selected area is not productive enough.

Assembly and installation without a foundation is the best choice if the size of the plot does not allow the construction of two greenhouses for periodic alternation in them greenhouse crops. It’s easier to move the structure on T-shaped legs, from which no one will be left with a useless skeleton on 6 acres. We conclude: summer residents best option and it’s not necessary, the only alternative can be to install a support base made of logs or timber on a foundation buried in the ground, replacing the foundation. However, its installation will take time and money, although not equal to pouring a monolithic tape into the formwork.

Choosing a location for a harvest greenhouse

Place is a very significant factor, regardless of whether the greenhouse is installed on the ground without a foundation or thoroughly installed with a supporting base. True, a scheme without a foundation has an advantage: an unsuccessful choice will only annoy you for one season.

Let us briefly recall the basic rules for determining the optimal site for a greenhouse structure:

the distance between one-story buildings on the site and the structure should be approximately 3 m so that their shadow does not interfere with the growth of cultivated vegetables;
It is advisable to place long walls in a “zonal” geographical direction, i.e. parallel to the east-west line, so that the plants receive maximum heat from the sun traveling from east to west. Accordingly, it is better to position the ends “meridionally” so that they “look” to the north and south;
It is necessary to move away from bushes and large trees not only taking into account the shadow they spread, but also the power of the root system. Because powerful roots will take a lot of water from greenhouse pets.

It would be nice to find a place protected from drafts. After all, the breeze will cool the polycarbonate, causing less thermal energy to enter the greenhouse. Of course, a picket fence won’t save you, but a fence made of corrugated sheets will help a lot, but for the sake of a greenhouse, it’s not very wise to splurge on buying one. It is better to find a site protected from the winds by existing structures.

What to do with the soil

The soil on the site, like parents and neighbors, is not chosen. As they say, we’re happy about what we got. Moreover, it is very desirable to find out what you got. To do this, you need to carry out primitive geological research on the site:

We dig a small hole. In plan, its dimensions are approximately 70x70 cm, depth 1.0-1.2 m;
we determine the composition of the earth in the range of 0.2-0.8 m from the surface. There will be no problems identifying clean, dry sand. It is crumbly, slightly moist, and it is impossible to roll it into a ball or flagellum that retains its shape after our “pottery” experiments. Sand is the best underlying layer for greenhouse soil. It will not retain water, the stagnation of which can rot the roots of plants. If you have rolled out flagella with balls, you will need to dig a pit 0.5-0.7 m deep under the greenhouse and fill it with river or quarry sand so that the top 0.3 m can be filled with fertile soil mixture;
we fix groundwater. Those. you just need to make sure whether there is water at the bottom of the pit or not. If a rather negative aspect is discovered around the greenhouse, you will need to dig ditches to drain the water.

At first glance, the steps to determine the geological and hydrogeological state of the site may seem unnecessarily complex. However, it is easier to play it safe and find out the nuances in advance than to lose the harvest and complain about the uselessness of the greenhouse.

Experienced installers of greenhouse structures advise placing the structure on the ground or on a foundation at the end of the summer season. In the fall, you can safely trample the harvested beds while assembling the frame and transporting it to the planned location. A good option is early spring, but not later. During the period of growth and flowering of garden inhabitants, such freedom is not expected.

Do the installation in early spring and in the fall, the manufacturers of the material also recommend it, because the most favorable temperature for coating is 10º C. Cellular polycarbonate is flexible enough to easily cover arched supports with a single sheet, and does not crack when tightening the bolts, as in cold weather.

Description of work on installing a greenhouse on the ground

We found a place, chose a time, now we find out how to install the greenhouse correctly and what needs to be done to secure it securely. Simplified installation of the structure on the ground can be described as follows:

Site preparation.
Assembling the lower trim with supporting T-shaped devices.
Installation of the lower frame trim.
. Installation of polycarbonate covering. Material lining of vents, sidewalls and greenhouse doors.
Fastening devices that protect the lower part of the greenhouse from unauthorized entry of voracious insects, field and domestic rodents.

The generalized scheme is adjusted taking into account the design features of the structure and the geological nuances of the site. Some processes can be excluded as unnecessary, taking into account the specifics of the situation. When installed on the ground, only T-shaped supports are buried in it. They can be initially welded to the bottom frame of the structure, they can be bolted to it or installed in loops welded to the frame. Let's consider the key points of the process of installing a factory greenhouse without laying a foundation.

Site preparation algorithm

Suppose we have chosen a plot of land on a country plot for a structure with an area of 3x8 meters. It was previously determined that the underlying soil is sand with rare layers and lenses of sandy loam, which will not significantly impair filtration properties. Groundwater lies significantly lower than the limit parameter of 1.2 m. This means that you don’t have to worry about drainage, but we will prepare the site as follows:

We break up a 4x9 meter area by installing pegs. We connect them with twine;
level the marked area. We remove the turf and visible mounds with a shovel, and then check the horizontality with a construction spirit level. The maximum tolerance for height differences is no more than 5 cm. We pay attention to the perimeter, more precisely to the imaginary “stripes” 0.5-0.7 m wide along the breakdown lines. It will be possible to plan the surface inside the structure even after its installation;
Let's step back from the layout 0.3 m, draw an auxiliary line on the soil with a shovel, a block, or an iron pin. This will be the outer edge of the trench;
We dig a trench 0.4 m wide. The depth of the trench depends on the length of the T-shaped legs of the greenhouse, usually 0.3 m. Above the surface, the lower frame frame, resting on the legs, should rise 0.1 m;
lightly, without much fanaticism, we will trample the bottom of the trench. Because polycarbonate greenhouses weigh on average 70 kg, and the weight of the structure is distributed over the entire area; there is no need to diligently compact the bottom of the trench.

To avoid having to dig up and place earth in the trench or bricks at corners due to a skewed frame, we will check the horizontalness of the bottom with a spirit level. We will immediately correct any flaws, if any, and begin assembly. Let's remember the need to protect plants from weeds and use a folk trick: cover the outer wall of the trench with sheets of used slate. Roofing felt will do instead, but in a couple of years the persistent wheatgrass roots will still “break through” it.

Frame assembly instructions

You can order assembly from a supplier, but transporting and moving the assembled structure around the site is a tedious task. If you resort to the services of assemblers from the selling company, then let them install it on summer cottage. Those who decide to assemble it themselves need to stock up only with a wrench and a screwdriver. The set of factory structures usually contains a complete set of fasteners, and at the same time a diagram for self-assembly of the greenhouse, according to which you should act. However, in our case, the sequence of work will be slightly changed, so we need:

assemble the ends by attaching the door frame, window analogue and reinforcing strips to the end arches, if the ends were not assembled by the seller or welded by the manufacturer;
Bolt the parts of the lower trim together and attach the T-shaped legs to it. All “underground” and parts in contact with the ground must be treated with bitumen before installation in the trench;
move the assembled harness with attached supports to the location and install this part of the structure in the trench so that the harness rises 10 cm above the surface;
check the horizontal position of the installation with a spirit level, if necessary, adjust the position by laying bricks;
assemble the frame according to the instructions included with the product, attach the polycarbonate, install automatic windows, if they are included in the kit;
fill the gap between the assembled structure and the ground with soil so that the edges of the sheets are covered by 3-5 cm.

All. You can “populate” green inhabitants.

Recall that the assembly method is influenced by design features. In a number of models, the lower trim is combined with walls to which arched drains and ends are attached. This type of installation of a polycarbonate greenhouse on the ground will be demonstrated by a photo selection:

How to block the path of insects

We filled the gap between the surface and the bottom trim in order to create a barrier in the path of insects. Slate will protect you from moles and shrews if you were not too lazy to install it. The function of earth backfill can be successfully performed by a strip of opaque polyethylene or metal. But the best option there will be additional strapping made of timber. A wooden addition will also increase the weight of the structure, making it more difficult to overturn in strong winds. It is attached to the frame with metal brackets and treated with hot bitumen or drying oil to protect it from rotting.

By the way, the construction of a wooden base from timber with a square cross-section measuring from 8x8 to 12x12 cm is an excellent alternative to T-shaped holders. This method allows you not to dig a trench, but simply place the structure on a leveled area. Now, if the wooden base is buried in the ground, then, of course, a trench is needed. This is already a wooden foundation, which can be made of timber or logs. The trench is lined with roofing felt, a base impregnated with drying oil is installed on top, and the frame strapping, etc. is attached to it with metal corners.

Video about common mistakes

The video will introduce you to the fundamental rules of installation:

We made sure that there was nothing supernatural in the process of installing the greenhouse on the ground. There are not too many nuances, but information about them will ensure reliable fixation of the structure and protection from garden troubles. Now you can begin construction and further operation in the name of a wonderful harvest.

The climate has become so unpredictable that having a greenhouse makes growing seasonal vegetables much easier. It is most practical to install a polycarbonate greenhouse on the site. It is durable, retains heat well, and transmits the spectrum of sunlight necessary for plant development. It is better to buy a ready-made greenhouse, but you can save on installation costs and install it yourself.

Selecting a location

For normal plant growth, natural sunlight is required throughout the day. Therefore, the first requirement for the site is the absence of trees, structures and buildings shading the site.

The correct orientation to the cardinal points improves illumination: the pediments are oriented one to the south, the other to the north, the sides to the west and east, respectively. In this case, you need to take into account the direction of the wind. If the wind most often blows from the north, then the axis of the greenhouse will need to be rotated. The wind should not blow through the open doors of the greenhouse.

If you plan to operate the greenhouse in winter or early spring, it is important to have a connection point close to electrical network, heating system and plumbing. For summer greenhouses, only watering is important. Therefore, it is enough to have summer water pipes nearby. It has been proven that greenhouse productivity , incorrectly installed, 30% lower: due to poor lighting and improperly organized watering.

Another requirement for the place is flat terrain. If there is no absolutely flat area, then you will have to spend time leveling the soil. Uniform watering is not possible on beds with a large slope.

Preparing the site for installation

If you are lucky - the soil is fertile, the area is level, then you can begin marking work. But if the terrain is uneven and there is groundwater or a layer of clay close to it, you will have to work hard.

Clay greatly reduces the permeability of the soil. Artificially created drainage can provide normal humidity. Crushed stone can be used as drainage material.

Perform soil preparation work sequentially:

First of all, use pegs to mark the dimensions of the future greenhouse.
Remove all topsoil from around the perimeter and set aside for later use. The removed turf can be stored in a corner of the garden. Once overheated, it will become an excellent substrate for planting.
Remove the clay to a depth of 40 cm.
Pour crushed stone (15 cm) and level it.
Pour out sand; its thickness should not be less than the crushed stone layer. Compact. You can wet it so that the pillow fits tightly.
Leave fertile soil for later refilling of the greenhouse.

The time spent on leveling the area will pay off during assembly. You need to assemble the frame at flat area with a height difference of no more than 5 cm it is much easier and faster. To carry out the preparatory work, you need to have pegs, a string, a tape measure, bayonet and shovel shovels, a wheelbarrow or a stretcher.

Assembly steps

There is no point in making the frame yourself. On sale is a wide range of greenhouse frames made of profiles (aluminum, galvanized iron) under a polycarbonate coating. At low temperatures polycarbonate becomes brittle. The installation of a greenhouse can be carried out both in early spring and in autumn, but the air temperature should not be less than +5° C.

For a reasonable price, you can purchase a greenhouse of any size: from a 2-meter structure to a 12-meter structure. In addition to the frame, the kit usually includes polycarbonate and fasteners. It’s good if the kit includes a beam, it can be used to weigh down the lower part of the greenhouse.

Before starting work on assembling structural elements, you need to read the detailed instructions for installing the product and prepare everything necessary tools. You need to have on hand:

screwdriver;
level;
hacksaw;
hammer;
wrench.

Using timber for the bottom trim

Let's consider the option of installing a greenhouse without a foundation using timber to weight the structure.

It will take more time to install, but the strength of the structure will be several orders of magnitude higher. This is especially true in climates where strong winds often blow.

Before use, the timber must be treated with a special impregnation that protects against fungus. You can use bitumen the old fashioned way, but it is better to use modern antiseptics. The following impregnations will protect the wood from woodworms, mold, moss, and moisture:

Neomid-440;
Senezh;
Bioshield.

Any will do. It is better to apply in several layers, waiting for each layer to dry completely.

The lower harness - the timber - can be buried a little into the ground. Dig a small trench 30 cm wide along the perimeter of the greenhouse, the depth depends on the height of the beam. Lay roofing material on the sides; it will perform two functions:

waterproofing;
protection from weeds.

Frame assembly

Gardeners who have mastered the ability to independently assemble greenhouses in practice recommend assembling the end parts of the greenhouse first. These are the most complex structural elements due to the presence of a doorway and a window for ventilation.

The second stage of installation is laying the bottom frame (timber) and fixing the lower part of the greenhouse frame to it using self-tapping screws. The horizontalness of the strapping is checked with a level. If necessary, the trench is deepened or filled. The timber must protrude at least 10 cm above the ground level. The corners of the strapping are firmly fixed using staples, screws or nails.

The first step is to install the arcs, attaching them to the base of the frame. Next, strictly according to the level, horizontal connecting strips are attached. The basis of the greenhouse is there. You need to attach the end parts to it and you can start covering the walls with polycarbonate.

We fix the polycarbonate

The ends are sewn up first. Remove the protective film from the polycarbonate. First fix the sheet to the structure with self-tapping screws, and then cut it to size. Screw the polycarbonate around the perimeter of the door and window. Carefully cut the door and window openings. Screw on the fittings: latches, handles. The ends are ready.

All that remains is to do the most labor-intensive part of the work - laying the polycarbonate on the arcs. It is better to do this in calm weather, since the sheets have a large windage. In strong gusts of wind, polycarbonate may break. You can attach sheets in two ways:

overlap;
using aluminum profile and strips.

The profile is attached to the arches using self-tapping screws. Fixed with a certain step along the entire length. Polycarbonate is placed in the grooves of the profile. A special aluminum tape is placed over the joint and stretched to the required density.

Greenhouse arrangement

The frame is assembled and sewn up, the greenhouse can be prepared for the planting season. Dig up, improve the soil structure by adding humus, compost, peat in the required proportions. You can make ridges. When planning them, take into account that it is easier to care for three ridges: one in the middle, two on the sides. When constructing two beds, they become wide and inconvenient to maintain.

Advantages

When installing a polycarbonate greenhouse on the ground without a foundation, the gardener receives a number of advantages. The greenhouse is quickly installed and dismantled. In areas with a lot of snow, it can be quickly disassembled for the winter so that in winter the roof does not break from the weight.

Such a greenhouse can be easily moved to another location. Especially if it is small. You can move if the trees have grown and a shadow has appeared that was not there before. Or they built a new country house nearby and installed a dense fence that provides shade. By assembling a polycarbonate greenhouse on the ground with his own hands, a summer resident receives a mobile and reliable structure that will serve for many years.

How to avoid mistakes

How to choose a place and prepare it has already been said. We know the permissible air temperature when installing polycarbonate sheets. What else underwater rocks can we meet?

You need to avoid mistakes at the stage of purchasing a greenhouse. Saving on price can result in damage during operation.

You need to pay attention to the following points when purchasing:

First of all, on the thickness of the metal (at least 1.5 mm).
The next important point is the profile section. Between 20 cm * 20 cm and 40 cm * 20 cm, choose the second option.
In areas with high rainfall, choose greenhouses with reinforced frames.
If the greenhouse has a bottom frame with ears and pins are included for fastening, then do not drive them completely into the ground. There should be at least 20 cm of the pin above the surface. If this is not done, then when the soil subsides, the eye will come off the metal fastening.
Give preference to greenhouses in which the base is attached to the ground using T-shaped fasteners. They fix the frame more securely than pins.

Choosing polycarbonate

Don't make mistakes when choosing polycarbonate. What should you pay attention to first? It is important to have UV protection, which increases the strength of the sheets and transmits the desired spectrum of sunlight.

Be sure to look at the thickness of the sheets. Optimal values in millimeters are from 4 to 6. The strength of the sheet can be checked by pressing. When pressed, thin and low-quality material loses its shape and wrinkles. When bending polycarbonate, creases should not appear.

There are a number of other points to consider:

Drill holes of a larger diameter on polycarbonate than in wood (metal). There will be no creases or waves.
Don't skimp on accessories. To seal the fastening points, use polycarbonate thermal washers or rubber gaskets.
Use special profiles for edging the end surface of polycarbonate.

Conclusion

A polycarbonate greenhouse on the ground is a good solution for many years. Self-assembly is a guarantee of quality. What matters is: installation location, polycarbonate of the required thickness, durable frame, high-quality fittings and installation carried out exactly according to the instructions.

In contact with

Purchasing a protected ground structure or constructing it yourself is one of the most important events for a summer resident. Special hopes are placed on her. By growing a large harvest of vegetables, you can not only ensure your food security, but also significantly replenish your budget. However, no less important matter is correct installation greenhouses on a personal plot. In order to do everything correctly, you need to clarify for yourself a few very important points, affecting the quality and quantity of the crop.

How to choose a place?

Many people take the choice of the place where the purchased greenhouse will be installed lightly. And this is the first mistake due to which you can lose a significant part of the harvest. Excessive soil moisture, lack of sunlight, and difficulties in connecting communications will not have the best effect on the growth and development of cultivated crops. To prevent this from happening, you should adhere to the following rules:

Rule 1. Find a level area;
Rule 2. Avoid close proximity to groundwater;
Rule 3. Do not install greenhouses and greenhouses in shaded areas;
Rule 4. Choose places for your construction that are protected from drafts;
Rule 5. Position the structure so that communications can be made to it (lighting, heating, watering).

IMPORTANT! Before installing a greenhouse or hotbed on your garden plot, examine your acres. Note the following criteria: slope of the site, soil composition and location of groundwater. Plant nutrition will depend on them.

We select a flat area

For protected ground structures, relatively flat areas of terrain are selected. They are the easiest to organize proper and uniform watering of cultivated plants. The presence of a slight slope in the soil contributes to the constant accumulation of moisture at the bottom of the greenhouse and its absence at the top. The root system of some plants will turn sour, while others, on the contrary, will experience a lack of water.

In addition, the frame of a greenhouse installed at an angle loses its functional significance. As a result of the distortion of all its elements, the structure loses its load-bearing capacity. Uneven distribution of snow load in winter time can play a cruel joke on the summer resident. The result may be the destruction of the frame.

If the site has a slope, then before installing the greenhouse structure it is necessary to carry out preparatory work to level the base. There are two ways to go here:

Leveling the site itself for a greenhouse;
Construction of a light foundation.

Of the two options, the first is considered the most budget-friendly, since it does not require special material costs. However, the second, despite the significant costs, is more preferable for several reasons:

Reliable fastening of the frame;
Possibility of constructing high beds with fertile soil layer.

We take into account the composition of the soil and the location of groundwater

In parallel with this, the composition of the soil and the occurrence of groundwater are being studied. Soil with a sandy surface is considered favorable for the growth of greenhouse plants. It will not allow moisture to accumulate near the root system of vegetable crops. Its absence on the site is not at all a reason to refuse to install a greenhouse structure. With a little effort you can improve the situation:

First you need to remove the fertile layer of soil;
Then dig a small pit with a depth of 60...70 cm around the perimeter of the greenhouse;
But lay the bottom of the pit with a 10 cm layer of crushed stone for drainage;
Pour sand on top of the crushed stone in a layer of 40...50 cm;
Then return the fertile layer of soil.

You can safely install any greenhouse structure on the prepared site, not forgetting to build a foundation for it in advance.

Accounting for groundwater when installing a greenhouse on garden plot is also not unimportant. Their close location from the surface threatens the root system during precipitation. When the water rises, the roots of the plants will rot. Therefore, the optimal water level will be deeper than 1.2 meters from the soil surface. If this condition is not met, then you should take care of the drainage system. To do this, drainage trenches must be dug along the foundation.

Taking into account the illumination of the place and the orientation of the greenhouse according to the cardinal directions

The next important criterion for a greenhouse is the illumination of the place where it will be installed. The sun carries enormous energy necessary for the growth of vegetables. The materials used for covering allow plants to receive the maximum amount of sunlight. However, the incorrect location of the greenhouse relative to the buildings and trees on the site can significantly reduce the illumination inside.

In order for the plants to receive maximum sunlight, it is unacceptable to place the greenhouse next to trees and buildings. If in summer the lack of light is not so noticeable, then in spring or autumn they will cast a shadow and prevent the penetration of solar energy into the structure. In addition, nearby trees in the autumn will shed their foliage onto the cover, which will also deprive the plants of the illumination they lack during this period.

Many summer residents are also interested in the question of how to correctly install a greenhouse relative to the cardinal directions. After all, when growing vegetables, they need to ensure maximum solar energy. The luminary should evenly illuminate the plants in the morning, afternoon and evening hours. In order to fulfill this requirement, the structure protecting the soil can be installed in two directions:

From North to South;
From East to West.

For growing plants in structures with small dimensions, for example, 3x4 meters or 3x6 meters, orientation to the cardinal points does not have a special effect on their growth. Greenhouses can be installed in any of the indicated directions. But farm-class buildings, the dimensions of which are not so small, are recommended to be oriented from East to West. The advantages of this arrangement include the following important points:

Rapid soil warming;
Quick equalization of temperature inside the structure;
Uniform lighting of plants

All this allows farmers to start growing sun-loving vegetable crops several weeks earlier. In addition, the orientation of the greenhouse from East to West allows you to increase the length of daylight hours and save on lighting and heating.

FOR REFERENCE! In general, installing a greenhouse in the direction of the sun has proven itself to be excellent in central Russia, its northern regions, as well as Belarus and Northern Ukraine. For more southern regions It is advisable to orient greenhouses from North to South.

Choose a place without drafts

When installing greenhouse structures on a garden plot, do not forget about the prevailing winds. Drafts are bad. The constantly blown area where the protected ground structure is located will not contribute to the full heating of the air in it. A slight breeze will remove heat from the surface of the greenhouse covering, thereby reducing its temperature inside by 5...7 degrees. Such carelessness in choosing a location will not allow the summer resident to save on heating.

There are several ways to isolate a greenhouse from winds:

Install it near buildings on the leeward side;
Build a protective screen.

If you decide to use existing buildings (house, outbuildings, fence, etc.) as a shelter from the winds, then try to place the greenhouse a little away from them. A distance of 3 meters is enough to ensure that the structure is not shaded.

Using a protective screen will be preferable in some cases. You can make it as follows:

On the wind side, along the long side of the greenhouse, supports are dug in every 2 meters.
The crossbars (crossbars) are fixed to the supports.
Sheets of metal profiles are screwed onto the prepared frame with self-tapping screws.

FACT! The installed screen allows you not only to protect the greenhouse from drafts, but also to additionally heat it with reflected rays.

If you decide to install a greenhouse in an open area where it is impossible to protect it from the winds, try to position it so that the direction of the wind is towards the front of the structure. This will avoid significant heat losses.

Now you know how to install a greenhouse on your garden plot. By using the recommendations, you can avoid major mistakes, minimize losses and grow a good harvest.

A greenhouse on a personal plot or summer cottage is a sure way to get an environmentally friendly harvest earlier and in larger quantities, putting less effort into processing plants, using a minimum amount of chemicals - fertilizers and pesticides.

The most popular material for long-term use greenhouses is polycarbonate. Let’s figure out what types of greenhouses using this material exist, and how to properly install a polycarbonate greenhouse on your site.

A greenhouse with a polycarbonate coating can be purchased ready-made, disassembled, but you can build it yourself by choosing the design you need.

The most popular forms of greenhouses

Since polycarbonate is a very flexible material that can take any shape, a greenhouse made from it can be:

Arched is the most popular and common option.
Rectangular with a pitched roof - often used as an attachment to the wall of a house or outbuilding.
Rectangular with a gable roof.

Greenhouses of different sizes and designs are used for various purposes:

For growing seedlings, a small arched structure (butterfly) in height and width (50(b)x40(h) cm) is suitable, in which the upper transoms rise like wings, which is very convenient for processing planting material and ventilation.
To grow low-growing crops, such as peppers, use a larger greenhouse - 90x80 or 110x85, also with an opening top; there are models with a thermal drive that open automatically for ventilation.
To grow tall plants, a larger greenhouse is purchased, with an arched or rectangular design, usually 2 m high, 2.4 to 3.0 m wide, with doors at the ends and transoms on the roof or at the end.

Types of frames for greenhouses

The greenhouse frame is made from:

Aluminum profile coated with powder paint - almost not subject to corrosion, the most expensive option.
Galvanized steel profile - angle, round or rectangular galvanized profile pipe - an average-cost option, durability and stability are better ensured by a one-piece frame made from a 40x20 mm pipe or from a double pipe 20x20 mm, with a wall thickness of 0.8 mm and arcs with a pitch 0.67 m.
Plastic pipes are an economical option, attractive in cost, light weight and ease of installation.
Wooden beams require impregnation with an antiseptic and subsequent treatments every 2-3 years.

For self-made simpler options are those with a pitched roof and a frame made of wood or plastic pipes, without a foundation, although all these options have a right to exist, the choice of design remains with the owner.

Types of foundations

Small greenhouses for seasonal use are placed on the ground without a foundation.

To prevent the structure from being blown away by a gust of wind, manufacturers can include special anchors in the kit. Instead of factory fasteners, you can use homemade hooks from ribbed reinforcement: drill holes in the lower horizontal profile near each arch with a diameter slightly larger than the reinforcement, insert it into the hole and press it into the ground until it stops.

If it is necessary to move to another place, the anchors are pulled out, the greenhouse can be moved without disassembling.

Disadvantages of this design:

Heat loss is about 10% from the contact of polycarbonate with the soil.
Free access for pests and weeds inside the greenhouse.

It is better to install a long-term greenhouse on a solid foundation, this will make it more resistant to wind loads.

The foundation can be made:

Columnar

Made from concrete, brick or asbestos-cement pipe filled with concrete with reinforcement laid inside - a more stable structure than anchors. Columnar foundations are more labor-intensive; they require digging foundation pits for supports measuring 0.7x0.7 and 1.2 m deep.

Brusovy

Made from wooden beams 100×100 or 150×150, it makes the greenhouse more stable, simple to implement, but requires protecting the wood with an antiseptic and wrapping it with waterproofing material.

The beams are installed in dug trenches on a bed of sand and gravel mixture; in the corners they are connected using corner elements with self-tapping screws. The frame is attached to the beam with self-tapping screws and a trench is dug. The timber foundation is short-lived and it is unlikely to be moved to another location.

Pile-grillage

With a perimeter beam made of timber or a metal profile, it is installed on an uneven foundation with a slope, swampy or shifting soil. The length of the pile is chosen to be 20 cm greater than the depth of soil freezing in a given region, the pitch of the piles is from 1 to 2 m.

Pile-screw foundations are one of the simplest and fastest structures to erect, they are universal - applicable on all types of soil, except rocky ones, they are economical and easy to implement.

Tape

Greenhouses are most often built from monolithic concrete with mesh reinforcement, from foundation blocks, from solid plastic-pressed bricks or from rubble stone on crushed clay, although they require more material consumption. Shallow strip foundations are usually made with a height of 0.5-0.7 m.

The simplest type of strip foundation is made from ready-made concrete blocks, but this is not the most budget option. The simplest strip foundation is made of rubble stone held together with crushed clay. If there are stones and clay deposits in the surrounding area, the material for the structure will be free, and the result will be quite reliable.

Under the strip foundation, a trench is dug to a depth of soil freezing, 25-30 cm wide, crushed stone or gravel is poured onto the bottom in a layer of 10 cm, formwork and reinforcement are installed, concrete is poured, and the surface is leveled. After the concrete gains strength - after 3-4 weeks, a frame is installed on the foundation.

Slab

Concrete with reinforcement or rubble stone and clay are least often used to build a greenhouse; this is the most material-intensive and expensive option for a supporting structure. The implementation of a foundation slab is recommended when groundwater is high and it is impossible to drain or drain the site.

Selecting a suitable site

The location for installing the greenhouse is chosen on a flat area; slopes are unsuitable: making a retaining wall is difficult, requires calculations, and is also expensive, since a large amount of materials is required. The best soil for a greenhouse is sandy with low groundwater, and you need to focus on the spring water level.

The direction for the structure is from west to east in the northern regions and from south to north in regions south of the 60th parallel. The greenhouse is placed in an open space so that there is no shadow from trees and tall bushes do not grow within 3 meters. It would be nice if the greenhouse was protected from the northern winds by some kind of building - a house or outbuilding.

Soil preparation

Before constructing the foundation, the area is cleared of debris and removed fertile soil to a depth of 30 cm. Subsequently, this layer, enriched with compost and fertilizers, is returned to the greenhouse.

If there is close groundwater or clay soil They dig a pit 70 cm deep, lay a crushed stone-gravel mixture at the bottom in a layer of 40 cm, and fill the remaining 30 cm with fertile soil after all the work has been completed.

Construction of a greenhouse on a pile-screw foundation

Photo of a polycarbonate greenhouse diagram:

Despite the fact that the greenhouse does not experience any special loads, before purchasing material and starting work, it is advisable to complete drawings of the proposed structure:

plan of the pile field;
grillage plan;
frame rack plan;
transverse and longitudinal section;
roof sheathing plan.

When creating a sketch, you need to focus on the dimensions of a standard polycarbonate sheet: length 6 or 12 m, width 2.1 m. For a sheet 10 mm thick, it is recommended to perform lathing in increments of 1x1 m.

As an example, we chose the construction of a greenhouse on a pile-screw foundation with a grillage made of timber with a cross-section of 100x100 mm, with a frame made of timber with a cross-section of 60x40 mm, and a rack pitch of 1 m. The width of the greenhouse is 2.8 m, length 6 m, height at the ridge from the top of the grillage 2.2 m.

Required materials and tools

To complete all the work you will need the following tools:

Required materials:

screw piles;
polycarbonate;
H- and U-shaped profiles for mounting polycarbonate;
corners and galvanized tape;
hardware.

Pile-screw foundation with timber grillage

Let’s assume that the depth of soil freezing in the region is 1.2 m. Taking into account that the head of the pile is at a height of about 1 m from the ground level, the length of the pile should be 1.5 m with a greenhouse length of 6 m and a width of 2.8 m you will need 18 piles.

Piles can be installed manually or using special equipment. A short pile into loose fertile soil - loam or sandy loam, characteristic of the central part of the Russian Federation, can be screwed in without much effort by 2 people using a lever made of reinforcement.

In the area with the removed fertile layer reserved for the greenhouse, the positions of the piles are marked with pegs; in these places, recesses are dug with a diameter 3...4 times larger than that of the pile and a depth of 0.5 m.

A pile is installed in the holes and screwed into it to the designed depth, threading the reinforcement as a lever into a special hole at the head of the pile. When screwing in, you must ensure that the installation is vertical. Corner piles are installed first, then row piles.

After installing all the piles, their top is cut off at the same level, a flat sheet is welded on, which serves as a support for the grillage made of timber.

Before installation, all wooden elements are impregnated with an antiseptic and fungicide, as an economical option - impregnation with used machine oil or a primer - a solution of bitumen in kerosene, although the latter two methods of protection against diseases and wood rot are less reliable.

The beams on the heads are laid on a layer of waterproofing material - bicrost is suitable. Fasten with spacer dowels into the prepared holes, every 500 mm. In the corners, the beams are connected with angle cutters or construction nails; a “half-tree” connection is possible.

Frame installation

According to the markings, after 1 m, a beam of vertical posts is installed on the grillage, with diagonal struts in each section to ensure rigidity. With a pitched roof, the frame posts of one longitudinal side must be at least 28 cm higher, providing a slope for water drainage of 1:10.

With a gable roof, the racks of the longitudinal walls are the same in height, approximately 1.8-2 m. The end racks are installed at a distance of 1 m from the corners, the height is determined by the slope of the roof. In the middle span of the end, a doorway is provided on one or both sides - a horizontal beam-lintel is mounted at a height of 1.8...2.0 m.

A horizontal support beam is mounted on top of the racks.

For a single-pitched roof, rafter beams from boards with a section of 100x40 mm are laid on the support beam, installing them vertically and securing them on the sides with bosses or corners.

For a gable roof, before installation, rafters (7 pieces) are assembled from 100x40 mm boards according to the pattern, which are then attached to the support beam, also with bosses or corners.

A longitudinal beam with a cross-section of 40x40 mm is installed in the ridge, each rafter is attached to it according to the markings. Attach a 40x40 mm timber sheathing with nails or self-tapping screws in increments of 1 m.

Sheathing walls and roofs with polycarbonate

Polycarbonate sheets are cut to fit right size, first they sheathe the ends of the greenhouse, leaving openings for doors and/or windows. The sheets are installed with a vertical arrangement of internal channels, on the roof - parallel to the slope.

Polycarbonate sheets are fastened together using special H profiles on self-tapping screws with heat-resistant washers; a U-profile is used in the corners. For fastening, holes are drilled in the sheets with a diameter larger than the diameter of the self-tapping screw. This is done to ensure thermal expansion of the material. For the same reason, it is forbidden to rigidly attach sheets to the frame.

Lastly, the polycarbonate is attached to the roof using the same H and U-shaped profiles. The width of the sheets when cutting should ensure a minimum eaves overhang along the longitudinal walls and ends of the greenhouse of 100 mm.

The cladding is completed by a hinge of doors and transoms, which are also made of polycarbonate on a wooden frame.

Completion of work

In order to prevent rodents from entering the greenhouse, the side gaps between the grillage and the ground surface must be protected with hard and moisture-resistant material. For this purpose, a flat asbestos-cement sheet, buried at least 50 cm into the soil, is suitable. Having secured it to the opening with self-tapping screws, it is necessary to sprinkle the perimeter of the structure with soil, and you can form planting beds in the greenhouse.