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Old manual lenses for Canon (including Soviet lenses). Using Nikkor lenses on Canon cameras Installing a Nikon lens

Having tested some Canon EF lenses on the Canon 5D Mark III, I decided to try comparing them to the latest Nikon lenses and see how they performed side by side. My initial plan was to mount a Nikon lens on the D800 and a Canon lens on the 5D Mark III and then look at the images at 100% scale. But I realized that it would be quite difficult to make a fair comparison since the cameras are different. That's when I thought about using Nikon lenses on a Canon camera with an adapter. I knew it was possible since some people like to use the Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8G on a Canon camera. In this article I will share my thoughts and experiences using Nikon lenses with Canon DSLRs.

NIKON D3S+105mmf/2.8 @ 105mm, ISO 800, 1/80, f/8.0

Is it possible to install a lensNikonat the cameraCanon?

As I said, yes, you can mount all Nikon F lenses (even the latest "G" type without aperture ring on any Canon DSLR - you'll need a Nikon to Canon adapter to do this. There are plenty of options available from different brands Regular adapters can be purchased for less than $20, but will only work with older Nikkor lenses with aperture rings. For "G" lenses, you will need a special adapter, which can cost around $300 USD.

Is it possible to install a lensCanon at the cameraNikon?

No you can not. It's technically possible to design such an adapter, but you won't be able to focus. This is because Nikon cameras have a larger distance between the flange and the sensor (focal plane), which makes the Canon lens work almost like an extension ring. Nikon's flange distance is 46.5 mm, while Canon's EF mount has 44 mm. So while the adapter is 2.5mm thick and can be used on Canon cameras, it would be impossible to go in the opposite direction for Nikon cameras.

Why do this?

So, why mount a Nikon lens on a Canon camera? Usually this is not necessary. Nikon lenses are designed for use with Nikon cameras, while Canon lenses are specifically designed for Canon cameras. But sometimes it will still be necessary. Here are a few reasons that came to my mind:

  1. You shoot with both Nikon and Canon cameras, and you have good Nikon lenses that you would like to use with a Canon DSLR. You don't want to buy a similar lens made by Canon, so buying an adapter would be a more economical alternative.
  2. You're shooting video on a Canon camera and want to be able to change the lens aperture silently using an adapter rather than rotating the lens aperture ring or dial on the camera.
  3. You really love the Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8G and want to use it with the 5D Mark III.
  4. You've switched from Nikon to Canon, but still have those classic Nikkor lenses you don't want to part with. Using them via an adapter on a Canon camera is a good option.
  5. You want to do this for fun!

Due to differences in types and sizes, it is usually not possible to fit lenses from one manufacturer to a camera from another manufacturer; unless the lenses are manufactured by a third party specifically for a particular mount. For example, Sigma, Tamron and Zeiss produce lenses for different types fastenings So, unless you use third party lenses, the only way to mount a lens from one manufacturer to another is to use an adapter. If it exists, of course.

Consequences of using an adapter

If you decide to purchase an adapter and use a Nikon lens on a Canon camera, then you need to know a few things:

  1. Autofocus will not work.
  2. Optical stabilizer and automatic control the diaphragm will not work.
  3. Focusing manually can be difficult in low light conditions. You will need to open the aperture, lock the focus and then return to the desired aperture value.
  4. If you buy a non-chip adapter, there will be no focus confirmation.
  5. If you buy a non-chip programmable adapter, then there will be no EXIF ​​information related to the lens.
  6. The measurement will work, but in some cases it will be difficult.
  7. If you don't want to constantly switch the adapter for different lenses, then it is better to buy a separate adapter for each, which can be expensive.
  8. It is better to use lenses with aperture rings.
  9. When using "G" type Nikkor lenses, it is not possible to select an aperture other than minimum and maximum. The control knob doesn't have a clear aperture indication, so you'll often have to guess at the camera's metering.
  10. You may have to remove the protective rubber pad on the "G" lens for the adapter to function properly.

As you can see, for most people, putting a Nikon lens on a Canon camera won't be such a good idea. Everything will have to be managed manually.

Choice adapter

When choosing an adapter, make sure it is made of high quality metal and fits both your lens and camera. A good adapter should be durable and reliable. The last thing you want is to drop your lens just because it was loose. Also, adapters from cheap brands may be made of poor quality metal, which can cause small metal fragments to enter the camera and ultimately damage the mirror or even the sensor. So before you install your 14-24mm on a bad adapter, think again.

NIKON D3S+105mmf/2.8 @ 105mm, ISO 500, 1/100, f/8.0

Buying an adapter withNikon F onCanon E.F.

The best Nikon to Canon adapters currently on the market are Novoflex and 16:9 adapters. The first one works great, but the latest one from 16:9 can be bought with a programmable chip (you can program things like focal length and aperture in the lens). Personally, I use the Novoflex adapter (see review of the Novoflex adapter from Nikon to Canon) and it works quite well.

I wrote about the features of using lenses designed for large frame formats on digital cameras. Now let's talk about the practical part.

How to install such a large format lens on a digital camera

It all comes down to the fact that you need to provide the lens with a large working distance, as well as a focusing mechanism. Well, the third task is to mount such a lens.

Setting the working distance
There are several ways to ensure a large working distance. This is a special focusing helicoid, they were usually made for macro photography, but I have also seen them specifically for installing large format lenses on medium and small formats. If the required length is not enough, you can increase it using macro rings.

Dagor 150 mm 6.7 lens attached to a Nikon camera via macro rings and a helicoid

This problem can also be solved using macrofur. And I have come across such solutions on the Internet. But I like the helicoid better, perhaps because I have one.

Focusing using macro bellows.

As a rule, the larger the format for which the lens is designed, the longer the flange distance. So, in some lenses designed for the 18x24 cm format, the working distance is more than 30 cm. And for the 9x12 format, most are about 10 cm.

Lens mount

Everyone has to fix the lens available methods. Old lenses often have non-standard threads. This is where ingenuity will work. I attached those lenses that have small dimensions to the helicoid, cutting out a washer from a plastic cap for a 20 liter bottle. In this way I was able to attach several lenses for the 9x12 cm format.

Homemade mount, made from a bottle cap, placed on the helicoid

If the diameter of the rear lens is large, then you need to look for other methods. Some lenses had to be attached with electrical tape because I couldn’t think of anything better.

Using the Hood
I also want to note that you need to take care of the lens hood. It can be made from a plastic tube of suitable diameter. To reduce flare, it can be covered with velvet from the inside or covered with matte paint.

Lens for 9x12 cm format, with an attached plastic tube that acts as a lens hood. It is supported by friction.

As you can see, attach a lens from a large format to digital camera it's not a complicated matter. There is no need to carry out complex operations to shorten the posterior segment, but on the contrary, you need to lengthen it. A little bit of engineering and everything will work out.

Nikon and Canon are two systems of photographic equipment and optics that have proven themselves well over many decades. Talking about the advantages of one brand over another is quite stupid. Both Nikon and Canon make great cameras and lenses and invest significant resources into their development. The differences between the two brands lie only in the control features, interface and menu logic, that is, in those moments that are the subject of purely personal preferences for any photographer. If a photographer is comfortable working with one system, then he usually makes the most of it, purchasing a variety of lenses for it. Fortunately, both Japanese companies offer a huge range of optics, which is called for all occasions. However, it happens that a photographer wants to use lenses of one system on cameras of another. Today we will talk about whether Nikkor (Nikon) lenses can be used on Canon SLR cameras.

Let’s answer this question right away – yes, you can install Nikkor lenses on Canon DSLRs. To do this, you just need an adapter. But first, let's delve a little deeper into the topic. When it comes to creating optics, there is a significant difference between Canon and Nikon. The fact is that the Nikon F mount has remained virtually unchanged since the 60s of the last century, so modern DSLRs from this company allow you to install compatible old optics right up to the very first Nikkor lenses. This is, of course, a very commendable attitude towards its historical heritage, but the company had to pay a certain price for it. In 1986, in order to preserve the old system, the Japanese company resorted to using a rather clumsy mechanical autofocus drive, which was inferior in speed to Canon's electronic autofocus, which appeared a year later. Canon management decided to create a completely new EF mount, abandoning the old one, with a more advanced autofocus system in which the focusing motor was located directly in the lens. As a result of this maneuver, Canon gained an advantage. Nikon lost its position a little and had to quickly catch up. Currently, Nikon lenses also have a built-in focusing motor.

If we compare two systems (Nikon F and Canon EF), it is easy to notice that the working distance of Canon is shorter than that of Nikon DSLRs. Accordingly, Nikkor lenses can be installed on any Canon camera using a special adapter. This also applies to modern G-type lenses. The most important thing is that when using a Nikon - Canon adapter, you retain the ability to focus at infinity. However, it should immediately be noted that modern market Photos of accessories We offer us a huge variety of such adapters. When choosing an adapter, first of all, make sure that it is fully compatible with your Canon camera model and the corresponding Nikkor optics. Also pay attention to the fact that it is made of high-quality materials - the adapter must be reliable and durable so that the risk of the optics falling due to weak fixation is minimized.

Briefly, we can highlight the following types of Nikon – Canon adapters:

— Cheap devices that guarantee a simple mechanical transition. This is an economical option, usually costing between 7 and 15 dollars.

— Adapters with mechanical diaphragm control. They are equipped with a ring that allows you to smoothly change the aperture value. This option is intended primarily for use with G-type lenses that do not have mechanical aperture adjustment. The cost of such devices is higher than usual.

— Adapters with a focus confirmation chip. An adapter with a chip allows you to automatically confirm focus when using non-native optics. You can rotate manual autofocus on the lens by pressing the shutter button halfway. When the focusing distance is reached, the warning light will light up. The cost of such adapters is even higher.

— Finally, the most expensive are adapters with a confirmation chip and mechanical aperture control. This is ideal if you want to attach a modern Nikkor G-series lens to an EF mount. Thanks to this adapter, you can manually adjust the aperture value and set the desired focusing distance, or adjust focus compensation.

So, as we have already noted, Nikkor lenses can be easily used on Canon DSLRs, the main thing is to choose the appropriate adapter. Focusing at infinity is maintained, but the ability to work with autofocus is lost, and when using some lenses or adapters of a certain type, aperture control is also lost. The best option- this is if you have non-G-type Nikkor optics at your disposal. These are mostly old optics, which are equipped with an aperture control ring, which allows you to safely use them on Canon SLR cameras. In this case, focusing is done manually by rotating the ring on the lens.

But when installing modern Nikkor G-type lenses that do not have an aperture control ring, in principle, you are deprived of the ability to change the aperture - it will be as closed as possible. Therefore, here you will need a more expensive adapter with mechanical aperture control and (preferably) a focus confirmation chip. However, you can use a regular, cheap adapter and always take photographs with an open aperture. You will need to block the aperture lever in the open position using a piece of cardboard or any other means at hand. So in this case, when using a G-type lens, you will only be able to shoot at the maximum/minimum aperture.

When might you ever need to install a Nikkor lens on a Canon DSLR camera? In fact, the options can be very different. The most obvious one is if for some reason you switched from a Nikon system to a Canon one, but you still have Nikkor lenses at your disposal that you want to use on your new DSLR. Another option - you just liked one of the Nikkor lenses, fortunately in the line Japanese company full of high-quality, interesting optics, and you plan to continue using it on the new Canon DSLR. Finally, someone is just lucky and takes photographs with cameras from both manufacturers. Accordingly, it becomes possible to use Nikkor optics on a Canon system, because buying a Canon lens with similar characteristics is a waste of money.

Probably everyone has wondered how to use a Nikon lens on Canon. So, while testing a number of Canon EF lenses on the Canon 5D Mark III, we were struck by the idea of ​​trying to compare the new Canon lenses with the lenses of their main competitor. Our initial plan was to mount the Nikon lenses we were testing on the D800, the Canon lenses on the 5D Mark III, respectively, and then compare the resulting images.

But after thinking a little, we realized that this method would not give objective results, since the cameras are completely different and, accordingly, there is no need to talk about comparing lenses exclusively. At this point we thought about the possibility of using Nikon lenses on a Canon body using an adapter.

Can a Nikon lens be used on a Canon DSLR?

Let's immediately answer the question posed in the title of the paragraph: yes, you can install all Nikon F lenses (and even G-type lenses) on any Canon DSLR - for this you will need a Nikon-Canon lens adapter.

Currently, the market offers many options for such adapters, as they say, for every taste and budget. Universal adapters can be purchased for less than $50, but those aiming to work with top-end Nikon G-type lenses will need specialized adapters, prices for which can reach up to $300.

Can a Canon lens be used on a Nikon DSLR?

No matter how much we would like to duplicate the answer to the previous question here, we cannot do this. Alas, Canon lenses cannot be mounted on Nikon DSLRs. From the technical side, this is, of course, possible. The problem is not the design of the lens adapter, but the fact that even if you mount a Canon lens on a Nikon camera, you will not be able to focus indefinitely.

The fact is that Nikon cameras have a greater distance from the lens mount to the sensor (focal plane), as a result of which Canon lenses, when installed on a Nikon camera, practically turn into extension rings. Nikon's flange distance is 46.5 mm, while Canon EF's is 44 mm (you can find out more about this).

And if for Canon DSLRs an adapter with a thickness of 2.5 mm can be used, increasing the working distance to the Nikon working distance, then there is no way to reduce the working distance on Nikon when using Canon lenses.

Why use a Nikon lens on Canon?

So, why mount Nikon lenses on a Canon DSLR? In a normal situation, you most likely will not have such a need. Obviously, Nikon lenses are purchased for use with Nikon cameras, and Canon lenses are purchased for use with Canon DSLRs. However, we can name several reasons when you may need such non-standard use:

  • You shoot with cameras from both manufacturers and have good Nikon lenses. Naturally, you would like to be able to use lenses of similar quality for a Canon DSLR, but you are well aware that buying a similar lens for Canon - very expensive and possibly impractical. In this case, purchasing an adapter may be a very appropriate and more economical alternative.
  • Are you a fan of the legendary Ni kkor 14-24mm f/2.8G and you want to be able to use it with your camera Canon.
  • You switched from Nikon to Canon , but you still have lenses Nikkor that you don't want to part with.
  • You just want to do it for fun.

In addition, using an adapter may be justified if you need to use a third-party lens - for example, Sigma, Tamron or Zeiss - and your camera does not have such a lens.


Lens:Nikon 24mm f/1.4G, Camera:Canon 5D Mark III

Results of using the adapter

If you do decide to purchase an adapter and intend to use a Nikon lens with a Canon DSLR, there are a few things you should know:

  • Lens autofocus will not work.
  • Won't work withVibration reduction system and automatic iris control.
  • In low light conditions, manual focusing may be difficult. You may need to open the aperture, focus, and then close the aperture down to the desired setting.
  • If you buy a cheap adapter, autofocus confirmation may not work.
  • If you purchase an inexpensive programmable adapter, information may not be displayed correctly in EXIF.
  • If you don't want to constantly switch adapters between lenses, you will need to purchase an adapter for each lens, which can be quite expensive.
  • Lenses with an aperture control ring are optimal for use with an adapter.
  • When shooting with lenses Nikon G -type it will be impossible to accurately set aperture values ​​other than maximum and minimum. The aperture lever does not have any scale to determine the set aperture.
  • In addition, for the adapter to function properly, you may need to cut or otherwise remove the rubber gasket used on the adapter. Nikon G lenses.

Instead of falling in price with the development of technology, the price of modern lenses is going in a different direction, increasing by 5-10% every year. A good lens costs at least 15,000 rubles, but often much more. Rent a lens – good decision for experiments with unknown optics, but very wasteful if you don’t make money from photography. And high-quality optics can cost from 1,000 to 15,000 rubles per day.

Using "classic" manual focus lenses can be a great alternative for the budget-conscious photographer who wants to experiment. Moreover, if you shoot macro or do subject photography, an old lens can give results no worse than what you can get with a lens for 15 thousand rubles.

Let's take a look at the prices. The new Canon EF 35/2.0 prime lens costs about 12 thousand rubles, the new Canon EF 85/1.8 lens costs about 14 thousand rubles. The better the optics are assembled and the more unique elements used in its design, the more expensive it is. Professional zoom lenses like Nikon AF-S 24-70/2.8 sell for approximately 55 thousand rubles. Old lenses with similar technical characteristics can be found at flea markets for much less money. For example, I managed to buy a Kaleinar 100/2.8 lens with a Nikon F mount for only 1,100 rubles in excellent condition. Some fifty-kopeck piece of Helios can generally be bought for 300 rubles. In general, the difference in price is huge - there’s nothing you can do about it. That's why main reason The reason why it’s worth using old optics is banal savings.

What old optics will work with a digital camera?

Each lens is designed for its own mount. Bayonet is a hole on the camera where the lens itself is mounted. Various manufacturers They produce their own lines of optics, and they are traditionally not interchangeable. Canon calls the mount EF, Sony calls it A, and Nikon calls it F. Manufacturers take this step consciously - this allows them to sell their own lenses in addition to the camera, “tying” the photographer to their system, as they say, “converting to their religion.” Well, since the service life of the lens significantly exceeds the service life of the camera, it turns out that the optics fleet will survive 4-5, or even all 10 generations of cameras. For example, I still have a Nikon 50/1.2 lens that I once bought with a mechanical film Nikon FM2.

The creation of lenses by the camera manufacturer eliminates incorrect operation optics with native bodies and allows you to correct specific distortions programmatically immediately during shooting. As a photographer acquires more optics, it becomes more and more difficult for him to switch to a competitor’s camera - everything he has acquired over the years simply will not work on another SLR system.

Together with the mount, each lens is designed to provide a specific distance between the back of the lens and the camera sensor. This distance is called Flange Focal Distance or working distance. If the distance between the installed lens and the sensor does not correspond to the technical specifications, the lens will not be able to focus correctly at all distances.

Installing an adapter between the lens and the camera adds some distance, thus increasing the effective working distance. If the adapter greatly increases the flange distance, the back of the lens becomes very distant from the sensor, which can cause focusing problems.

Conversely, if the back of the lens is too close to the mirror, it can damage the camera's internal components and interfere with its performance.

Modern Canon lenses are designed with a flange distance of 44 mm. Thus, for a lens mounted on a Canon camera to work correctly, its back must be at a distance of 44 millimeters from the sensor. Nikon lenses are created for a working distance of 46.5 mm.

All these explanations in the style of Captain Obvious seem primitive, but the working segment is key factor performance of a specific lens on a specific camera. Since the difference in working distances between Nikon and Canon lenses is 2.5 mm, by making an adapter ring 2.5 mm thick, you can use Nikon lenses on a Canon body!

As you can see, some cameras are best suited for working with optics simply because they are more convenient to use with adapter rings. In general, you will spend significantly less time by installing a non-specific lens on a camera with a shorter flange length, in this case Canon.

The adapter from Nikon optics to Canon cameras is quite cheap and simple. In principle, it should not be difficult to make if you have a friend with access to CNC machines. But it will be even easier to buy one - its price is about 300 rubles. The reverse combination will be more difficult.

The second reason to use a classic handheld lens is the completely different feel and shooting experience. Shooting with a manual lens differs from shooting with autofocus lenses not only in the process, but also in the approach. You will notice that you use significantly more angles and compositional decisions due to the fact that actions cannot be automated, and each step needs to be thought out. Much more work is done to obtain a shot, which means that you will learn a lot in unusual conditions. Many of my friends deliberately switch their lenses to manual focus mode, or deliberately shoot in black and white. And after such stages of deliberate limitation, their photographs invariably reached a qualitatively new level.

Due to the fact that optics released ten or more years ago for Nikon F and Canon EF mounts work excellently on new cameras, they traditionally high demand and some samples are difficult to obtain. Instead, you should pay attention to the old optics for the M42 mount. These lenses have been produced since 1940 and were very popular in the 80s of the last century. But the best part is that they are still produced, in particular in Russia. The M42 mount was used by camera lines such as Zenit, Praktica, Pentax, and even Carl Zeiss and Voigtlander were among the optics manufacturers.

The M42 mount has a screw thread and is characterized by a working length of 45.5 mm. Based on the above, you can easily install the M42 lens on a Canon camera, but it cannot be installed on Nikon cameras without focusing problems. That is, of course, you can install a lens, but it will only allow you to focus at close distances. For example, it will be impossible to photograph an object located 10 meters from the camera with good sharpness. There is an adapter option with a lens that allows you to focus at infinity, but the additional lens reduces the resolution of the lens and reduces the aperture ratio.

M42 threaded optics cannot be mounted on the snap mounts of modern SLR cameras - an adapter is required. Adapter rings are also fairly cheap and can be found for sale on Amazon.com and many other online retailers.

If you want to use optics designed for a flange length shorter than that on your camera, a simple metal adapter ring will not allow desired result. If you ignore this aspect and install a lens, you will get a tandem that will not be able to focus at long distances and at infinity.

Adapter ring for Nikon lenses

The design of the adapter ring has a corrective lens

Installed adapter M42-Nikon A on DSLR camera Nikon

Manual optics on the Nikon F mount of the Fujifilm S5 Pro camera

M42 lenses can often be found for sale on eBay and even at flea markets. And some Tilt/Shift lenses can be found at a ridiculous price when compared with the cost of such models from Canon. For example, the new Zenitar-M 2.8/16 lens costs about 5-6 thousand rubles, which is several times cheaper than Canon EF analogues.

How to shoot with handheld lenses?

A lens installed via an adapter can only operate in fully manual mode; autofocus and autoexposure are not available in this case. This is because the adapter ring is simply not equipped electronic contacts to communicate with the camera, but the lens does not have the corresponding filling - the camera will not be able to control the aperture and has no idea whether the image is now in focus. Therefore, to obtain the correct photographs you will have to resort to the SDM (Stop-Down Metering) technique.

  1. Switch the camera to M mode. If your camera does not have such a mode, then we offer you our condolences for the broken compact camera. In the camera settings, allow shooting without a lens.
  2. Look through the viewfinder as the aperture changes. You will notice that the image will become either brighter or lighter, and you will also notice a change in the depth of field - this is especially noticeable when shooting portraits.
  3. Choose an ISO that suits your scene. ISO 100 – for shooting in the sun, at least 800 when shooting indoors.
  4. Set the shutter speed appropriate for your case to avoid blurry images. 1/60 s or 1/50 s is quite enough to start with. You can do more with a tripod.
  5. Once your subject is in focus, press the shutter button halfway to activate the light meter and evaluate the brightness of the scene. If it shows that there is enough light, you can shoot. If there is a lot or a little, take appropriate measures.
  6. Evaluate the resulting image and adjust the camera settings. Shooting in RAW will allow you to pull out details in overexposed or underexposed frames.

After using this technique for a while, you will be able to focus at different apertures and be able to make the necessary settings without thinking.

An important aspect of manual focusing is its convenience. And here we will need to understand such a concept as a focusing screen. This is a small plate made of transparent plastic with concentric circles and other markings applied. The included screen is designed for easy operation of your camera's phase detection autofocus system.

Focusing screen

The focusing screen is held in place by a latch in front of the pentaprism.

Old non-autofocus optics are much better suited for self made- you immediately notice this when you twirl some manual lens in an all-metal body - smooth and at the same time precise focus control, unlike the flimsy plastic rings on kit lenses.

Of course, you will easily notice a lapse in sharpness, but otherwise, focusing manually will not be as convenient as the traditional method or in Live View mode. So if you prefer to work through an optical viewfinder, you can replace the standard focusing screen with one specifically designed for manual focusing. The viewfinder image will be better suited for manual sharpening, and the area of ​​focus will be clearer. In addition, you can find special screens for landscape photography with compositional lines on sale.

A modern camera with interchangeable lenses has sophisticated components that ensure the operation of stabilization, exposure metering, focusing and signal processing systems. For full-fledged operation, it needs a connection with the lens in order to take information about shooting from it - aperture, shutter speed, focal length. Other characteristics are also stored by the lens - even the focal length and body condition.

Since 1987, with the introduction of Canon EF lenses with all-electronic communication with the camera, processor lenses have gradually won their place in the sun from manual optics. But here another problem arises - even using good lens, focusing screen and shooting technique, at the slightest change in lighting conditions you will have to reset the shutter speed, manually change the aperture on the lens or change the ISO.

Amateur photography enthusiasts solved this problem by creating the so-called “dandelion”. This is a small microcircuit with contacts on a plastic substrate. The chip attaches to the lens and allows you to use some useful automatic functions of your DSLR camera.

The chip imitates commands for full operation of the camera, and the body “thinks” that a native lens has been installed on it. Focus confirmation, autoexposure, and so on work, but the focus remains manual. “Dandelions” are produced for SLR cameras Canon EOS, Nikon, Olympus, Micro Four Thirds cameras, often complete with an adapter ring and completely ready for use.