Spot painting lace tulle border stencils. Lace painting, lace patterns on furniture
PART ONE
There are different types of lace, but in the dot painting technique, the motifs of Vologda lace, Irish lace, imitation crocheted lace, and cutwork look most impressive.
Therefore, for this work you can use not only photographs of lace as a visual example, but those craftswomen who have difficulty drawing can use diagrams of ready-made lace. I don’t like exact copying, so I use diagrams to draw the general outline of the lace and transfer individual elements.
This is necessary because individual elements are repeated many times in lace! And if you are planning to paint a round object, you cannot do without transferring the main elements of the diagram to the blank in order to maintain symmetry!
I want to tell you right away about the time.
On the first day, a series of works are done sequentially to prepare the workpiece for painting. Each stage takes approximately 10-20 minutes, and between stages the workpiece is dried with a hairdryer or naturally.
The first part of the master class will be devoted to this stage.
On the second day, dot painting is done, depending on the complexity of the pattern and skills, the time for painting is 4-5 hours. This will be the second part of the master class.
For all the work we will need:
1) a blank for a box, I have a round one with a diameter of 13 cm;
2) acrylic primer (white or to match the base paint);
3) acrylic paint “Blue cyan” or any dark one;
4) paint brush;
5) sponge (sponge);
6) medium-grit sandpaper and the finest 1000;
7) matte/glossy water-based varnish;
8) contours on glass and ceramics (white mother-of-pearl, light silver, blue, Perlen Pen Ice white);
9) craquelure single-stage medium (medium cracks) - optional;
10) lavender acrylic paint - optional;
11) white pencil for glass/plastic/metal;
12) sketch, lace diagram;
13) colored wax to create a metallic effect;
14) pencil;
15) a sheet of white paper.
1. First we need to prepare our workpiece. Here's a cute one I have:
In principle, the preparation process is exactly the same as what is done before decoupage. We sand all the unevenness that is on the outside and inside of the box.
Believe me, I tried to choose to have fewer of them, but they always happen! I think you can see them in the photo.
After this we apply primer.
Ideally, the primer is the same color as the base paint. You can also immediately take primer paint of the desired color to reduce the number of steps.
We apply the primer more than once with intermediate drying and sanding until we achieve the desired degree of evenness and smoothness.
After finishing sanding the primer, you can apply a coat of paint. Please note that the paint should not be thick; it should flow out of the jar if the jar is tilted.
If the paint is thick, you can dilute it a little with water, since the paint is water-based.
Using a sponge, we cover the surface with paint (“patching” the sponge over our workpiece). Let it dry. Cover with paint again. Here's the result:
2. On the outside we coat both parts of the box with varnish, I chose matte. Sand with fine sandpaper after the first layer. Apply varnish again. Now this surface is prepared for painting.
3. The junction of the lid and bottom must be sanded well so that the box opens freely. Then you can wax it. Mine is also lavender.
This will add extra shine and make the lid easy to open.
This is the result! The wax also changed its shade, the surface became more chameleon-like!
The inside of the box can be decorated, creating the effect of cracks (craquelure). We first painted the inside of the box the main blue color. To create the effect of cracks, we take a one-stage craquelure medium (medium cracks) and a second color of acrylic paint - mine is purple.
First we cover it with craquelure, let it dry, when the craquelure becomes a little sticky, apply purple acrylic paint with a sponge or brush. I do it with a brush so that there is an additional effect of strokes!
Very important! Do not paint the same place twice, otherwise there will be no cracking effect! Cover the top with varnish and, if desired, wipe the top with wax.
5. Now you need to figure out the lace sketches.
I downloaded this diagram from the Internet, but decided not to use the entire motif, since I do not have a very large area for painting.
For painting, I decided to use only one triangular element, but in an enlarged version. In the same file there was a sketch of 1/3 of this element of the size I needed.
We cut out the part of the sketch that was on the printout, and on a white sheet of paper we make a complete sketch of the lace.
This is the lace sketch I came up with. We cut it along the external and internal contours.
6. Combine the middle of the box and the cut out sketch.
We trace along the outline of the drawing with a white pencil. This is what happened.
Now the box blank is prepared for painting. The next part of the master class will begin from this stage.
Stay tuned for more soon! If you have questions, ask in the comments!
And don’t forget to click on the “Like” button if you really liked the master class.
PS: photos were taken in different time days, so the main color of the box looks different.
PART TWO.
We continue to decorate our box using the point-to-point painting technique.
For the painting stage we will need only contours on glass and ceramics:
White pearlescent;
Light silver;
Blue;
Perlen Pen for Ice white pearls.
All surfaces for painting are decorated in the desired color and covered with 2-3 layers of varnish.
1. In the first part, we stopped at the stage when, with a white pencil (for working on glass, ceramics, metal), we drew the outline of our lace on the lid of the box.
2. Take the “white mother-of-pearl” contour. We will use it to apply the main pattern of triple hemstitching.
Based on the drawing applied to the box, we begin to paint the main motif. We put dots in rows of three in a row, and so on for the entire drawing.
3. Next, use a blue outline to place dots along the edge of our lace pattern.
4. We decorate the three tops of the lace and the middle with small pearls (Perlen Pen).
5. In the next steps we use the “light silver” contour. It is not as dense in color, but a little thicker, so the dots are smaller.
This is suitable for drawing connecting lines.
Here's what happened:
We continue to make connecting lines inside the lace napkin:
Making the outer contour:
We paint the inside of the box using the same sketch, only smaller in size. Here's the result:
6. We paint the bottom of the box using the same principles. First, we apply the main markings, then we fill the space with connecting lines.
Here's what happened:
I didn’t quite like the result, so I went over the outline again and filled the hemstitch more tightly, correcting, among other things, some flaws. The final result of the bottom of the box:
And here are some photos of the finished box! I like her very much!
Helpful Tips:
1. Choose a workpiece so that there are as few defects as possible on the surface.
2. If you choose a round box, the lid should close easily, even dangle. Since after painting the gap between the lid and the bottom will decrease significantly, there may be problems with closing/opening.
3. Acrylic paint should not be thick.
4. If the lace pattern you like is small for your box, and this pattern is in in electronic format, you can copy it into Word, there you can stretch the drawing to required sizes and print.
If you liked my master class, don’t forget to click the “Like” button. I will answer your questions in the comments.
Best regards, Angelica.
Studio "Worthy Gifts".
Many times I have been asked to tell you how I make “even” lace strips. I’ll show you the example of “tulle” lace, which I love and often use in various ways. It's simple. Is it true!
Introduction: I make all the lace with “Tair” - white, light silver. All markings and “basting” are in light silver, because this contour gives the smallest point and is easily covered by subsequent painting.
1. I outline the width of the lace strip and make 1 cm markings (in this case).
2. I connect the points with arcs. Two down.
3. Now two up.
4. I continue along the entire length. For me this will be the bottom of the lace strip. I outline the size of the future “leaf”. Now this is easy to do, based on the existing drawing.
5. Using the markings, I make a “basting” of leaves and circles, all of them will be “holes” on the tulle, i.e. not painted over.
I repeat once again that all basting is done in light silver.
6. I begin to fill in the “tulle fabric”. Using light silver, practically without pressing on the tube, I place micro-dots in a chaotic order, close to each other.
Important- do not repeat the contours of the drawing with micro-dots, i.e. do not follow the intended lines so that the tulle pattern does not duplicate the contours of the leaves and holes.
7. I fill everything tightly with tulle. Looks like this
8. I begin to outline all the intended leaves and circles with a white outline, the dots are not large, but very dense, so that there is an impression of tightly sewn “holes”
9. Now the most pleasant thing is the decor of our lace, here’s everything that comes to mind.
One piece of advice: once you start making some element, continue to repeat it along the entire length of the strip.The hand seems to get used to the rhythm and pattern and it turns out smoother and more confident.
This time I drew it like this, I’m showing it step by step, without comments.
As you understand, there are a lot of options for designing the lace edge, it all depends on the size of the item and how you distribute the accents (the brightest and most densely painted lace).
On this box I made this option.
And this is how it looks in its entirety. On the subject of accents - since the most complex and voluminous painting is on the lid, I made a not too rich lace strip on the sides.
I wish you all success, inspiration and creative mood! I hope this MK will help you in some way.
Always with you, Yulia Levashova
Master class "Constructing tulle lace"
Since there has already been unauthorized quoting of my post in a closed group" Spot painting contours", I decided to post this MK in my own diary.
Many times I have been asked to tell you how I make “even” lace strips. I’ll show you the example of “tulle” lace, which I love and often use in various ways. It's simple. Is it true!
Introduction: I make all the lace with “Tair” - white, light silver. All markings and “basting” are in light silver, because this contour gives the smallest point and is easily covered by subsequent painting.
1. I outline the width of the lace strip,and make markings of 1 cm (in this case).
2. I connect the points with arcs. Two down.
3. Now two up.
4. I continue along the entire length. For me this will be the bottom of the lace strip.
I outline the size of the future “leaf”.Now this is easy to do, based on the existing drawing.
5. Using the markings, I “outline” the leaves and circles,they will all be “holes” on the tulle, i.e. not painted over.I repeat once again that all basting is done in light silver.
6. I begin to fill in the “tulle fabric”.Using light silver, practically without pressing on the tube, I place micro-dots in a chaotic order, close to each other. Important- do not repeat the contours of the drawing with micro-dots, i.e. do not follow the intended lines so that the tulle pattern does not duplicate the contours of the leaves and holes.
7. I fill everything tightly with tulle. Looks like this
8. I begin to trace all the designated leaves.and circles white outline, the dots are not large, but very dense, so that there is an impression of tightly sewn “holes”
9. Now the most pleasant thing is the decor of our lace, here’s everything that comes to mind.One piece of advice: once you start making some element, continue to repeat it along the entire length of the strip.
The hand seems to get used to the rhythm and pattern and it turns out smoother and more confident.
This time I drew it like this, I’m showing it step by step, without comments.
As you understand, there are a lot of options for designing the lace edge,
It all depends on the size of the object and how you distribute accents
(the brightest and most densely painted lace).
On this box I made this option.
I wish you all success and inspirationand creative mood!
I hope this MK will help you in some way.
Always with you,
Yulia Levashova
Imitation of lace with contours. Master class from Elena ShevchenkoI greet you on the pages of my diary!
I remember at the institute for registration title page according to descriptive geometry, we drew a grid with intervals of 2 mm, or something, and entered the name of the object there - it was very monotonous and painstaking work :) I somehow managed to do it very extremely neatly and elegantly, which my classmates immediately appreciated - in As a result, someone drew the main drawings for me, and I made the title for almost the entire flow :) I never thought that something like this could be repeated with contours, and even imitate lace :) I want to bring to your attention an excellent work and a master class from Elenochka Shevchenko, in which she shows and tells in great detail all the intricacies of lace contour painting. Enjoy watching!
I’ll say again that when creating this MK, I was helped by the accumulated knowledge and unrealistically believable work on imitation of lace by Lilia Egorova. I thought, I thought, how can I create such beauty. And that’s what I thought of. Don’t judge strictly, until Lilies are still a long way off for me, but as it is, it is, so we will improve.
Materials:
Working on a candy bowl.
1. We grind and prime the workpiece. I made my candy dish myself, so there were also stages of sawing, gluing, and putty.
2. Cover the candy dish with the main color, mine is dark blue (ultramarine + ocher + soot + whitewash (a little bit). Dry it, sand it lightly.
3. Let’s start painting with an outline. I use “Decola” for glass and ceramics. We will draw a mesh under the ruler. The ruler is needed with a protrusion (step) along the edge, almost all plastic rulers are like that. Or you can glue 3D tape to the bottom of the ruler. This This is necessary so that when drawing a line, the contour does not touch the surface of the ruler, etc. It wouldn't smear.
4. We arm ourselves with accuracy and patience. To make the work more accurate, I put the circuit in the refrigerator for about 15 minutes, it became a little thicker, which did not allow it to often flow out in drops, although betrayal on his part still happened, and this came to me A brush or toothpick helps. I used them to remove the excess thickness of the line.
5. I painted with lines sequentially, first horizontal on two adjacent sides. Dried, then horizontal on the remaining two. Then vertical lines in the same order. At the intersection of lines, thickening does not work, we first dried the first layer of lines + a thin outline. Here , when you start to draw a line, drops flowed out, some I removed with a brush and a toothpick, some I left (well, it seems like that’s how it was intended, the embroidery is handmade, errors are possible), and some still won’t be very noticeable under the dotted pattern. I did everything by eye , so we turn on our eye to the maximum, the distance between the lines is from 2 to 4 mm. I think the finer the mesh. the more realistic the simulation.
6. The fun begins. Transforming the mesh into a hemstitch using a dot pattern!!! You can take some samples from the Internet or use your imagination.
9. Varnishing. I varnished without fanaticism. A couple of layers. After all, the entire surface is still contour painted. You can, I think, varnish before contour painting, but then you’ll just have to wait for the varnish to dry well so that the ruler doesn’t stick.
Working on the box.
1. We remove the box blank from the fittings, sand it, and prime it.
2. Paint the lid of the box white acrylic paint and side parts and bottom with the main color. Dry, sand lightly.
3.We decorate the lid with a napkin.
4. Shade the edges of the box and along the edges of the napkin motif with bitumen. I fixed the bitumen with autovarnish (in a spray can)
5. We paint the side parts with an outline in the manner described above. The subtlety when painting the box is that the bottom and the lid must be aligned, otherwise you won’t get the “integrity of the napkin.” First, I fastened the small sides with masking tape and painted the front and back, and then I connected the drawn “front” and “back” with masking tape and took the sides. Having traced the entire box in this way, we make a dotted pattern. Here you will need patience to dry each “layer” of lines. On the outline it is written that you need to wait 3 hours, but then the painting It would take me several days, and I am an impatient person. Therefore, after waiting 1 hour, I proceeded to the next “layer”, and so on. I did it in a day.
8.Varnishing.
9. Screw on the fittings and glue the butterfly to the inside of the box lid.
Working on a hot stand.
1. Sand the workpiece, prime it, paint it with white acrylic paint
. 
2. Cover with the main color, leaving the central part unpainted, we will glue a napkin there. Dry, sand lightly.
3.Glue the napkin.
4. Bitumen along the edges of the napkin motif and along the edges of the stand itself. I secured the bitumen with autovarnish (spray).
5.Painting with contours.
6.We cover reverse side water stain "Polysander".
7.Varnishing.
This method can also be used to imitate cross stitch (take outlines of different colors) or simply to paint with an outline, it does not have to be an imitation of embroidery.
Many thanks to Elena for the excellent work and great master class!!
Good luck to everyone and endless creative inspiration!!
